Hi, i'm new to the forum and have a bit of an issue with my Polo.

I returned home from work the day before new years eve to find both windows on my car down, and the battery had ran flat (it had been raining a little, if that means anything)
the following day got the battery charged with a trickle charger and car started, but nothing from the windows..
I could smell a burning smell in the car so i assume they'd burnt out, and caused the battery to run flat.

Luckily no one had taken anything from the car or the stereo etc which were all easy pickings as it is street parking..

I took it to my trusty mechanic, However he couldn't fix the problem (he did check quite a few things with a PC with fuses and multi-meter) and advised an Auto electrical place as it was more electrical issue,
though we did manage to get the windows up (though wedged with card, better than down i guess)

The following week Its also affected the central locking now , so i cant access the boot, passenger side or the fuel cap. (initially this worked when i re-started the car)
(my 2 keys only do driver side door and ignition, don't have the ones that do passenger side or boot)
I think the problem may be linked to an issue I had last year when i had an issue with the central locking when the windows came down when i locked the car, and it would also unlock (so i couldn't LOCK the car!) my mechanic at the time disconnected the central locking, and i could lock the car on drivers side without activating central locking, but use the buttons on the door instead.

(note, the central locking still makes the noise of locking/un-locking, just none of the locks actually unlock/lock)

Is it going to be a pricey fix is what i am asking...?
i'm assuming it'll need 2 new motors for the electric windows if they've burnt out.. but potentially what else has caused this...?

I am assuming there's more to this than just the Window regulator motors.I think i also read somewhere of a similar problem and talking about a "Comfort Control module" that has something to do with the electric windows AND Central locking.

If anyone had had this issue or similar can you advise what it cost you to fix yourself, or a auto-electrical place charged you (which is the option i'll no doubt have to go down) or should i just get rid of this car because of the cost to repair the electrics?

Edited 19 January, 201412 yr by Ant76

Just as information and to make one thing clear:

There is one centrallocking-wire for "close" and one for "open" from both doorlocks (microswitches in the locks) to the centrallockingpump.

Also when you have electric windows, these windowmotors are also connected to these both commandwires inside the doorwirelooms.

And these both wires are also connected to the "comfort module".

That "comfort module" which has nothing to do with the comfort function (windows closing/opening with keys).

The "comfort module" is a wrong name for the remote control. Nobody knows why everybody calls it that name "comfort module", it is the same here in germany, nobody knows that.
When you have the radio controlled central locking system from factory on with an open and a lock button in the key, that receiver is the "comfort module".

The name is indeed very confusing.

Again, forget about the comfort module, it is just the original radio remote control receiver, nothing else. (In its better version together with alarm in one unit). So without redio remote control from factory, you even have no "comfort module".

So centrallocking and electrik windows are always connected together when both came from factory.

Keep out the "comfort module", thats just the remote receiver.

Inside the windowmotors there is all the electronics which is responsible for the comfort function.

So when there is +12V on the open-wire, why ever, that wire leads that +12V to both windowmotors. They both just think logic and runs down the windows.

The same with closing.

So i guess you have a problem with one microswitch in one of your doorlocks which gives +12V on the open-wire.

I would do the following.

On both doorlocks there are 3pin connectors, just pull these off.

On both windowmotors are multipinconnectors, pull these off too.

Then connect one lockswitch again.. does the centrallocking work normal?

If so, connect the 2nd... does the centrallocking work still normal?

Then one window after the other.

That's the only thing that the windows and the centrallocking have in common, the wires for open and close!!!

When you give +12V on one of these wires, it needs a second to activate the associated comfort function in the windowlifters.

When you take away that tension, the comfort function stops immediately.

Thats the comfort function which allows you to comfort open your windows by opening the doorlock longer than one second, or closing the windows by closing the doorlock longer than one second.

And thats not possible via remote control, because the readio remote which came from factory wasn't able to give tension longer than one secont, only short impulses!

(Btw: when electric glass sunroof exists from factory together with centrallocking and electric windows, the sunroof is also connected to the COdrivers windowlifter to give that comfort function forward to the sunroof to open/close that too.

Via radio remote only with aftermarket ones cos they set the outputs as long you push the button on the remote.)

It's just cos i read so much false about centrallocking, windows and most off all the "comfort module" which doesn't earn its name.

cheers

Christian