As above mk2 polo ticks over ok when I try and rev it it dies out the car hasn't been used for a few years but I've put fresh fuel in it if I take the air filter off and put my hand over the carb it revs ok any ideas? Thanks

Rubber carb base is split/rotten allowing air in upsetting the mixture.

Can you link me this item please

What size carb/engine is it I have a few of these bases,

There are loads of different shapes and sizes you should really remove the carb and have a look.

It's a 1987 1.0L will the be able to tell the one I need by the reg number? Are they easy to change?

Simple mate four nuts under the manifold,

Take your air filter lid off and take a photo of the carb,

If you are unsure how just unclip the lid lift it off and you should see two or three 10mm nuts/bolts unscrew these and prise the filter base of there may well be a couple of hoses holding it back just lift the filter base to one side and take the pic,

Edited 5 March, 201412 yr by Mk2 olop

This pic any good

Yep pretty sure I have one reach under the manifold and you will feel four 10mm nuts unscrew these (put a sheet or a large piece of card under the car firstt just incase you drop one ) and the carb will lift off,

You should be able to lift off the carb and remove the base without disconnecting any fuel lines cables etc.

This one

Is it perished and the rubber peeling away from the metal?

This is the one I have notice the bolt holes for the carb.

Edited 7 March, 201412 yr by Mk2 olop

Doesn't look the same yeah it's split between metal and rubber

You can make a temporary repair with sikaflex or a butyl based sealer.

Have your Chassis number ready and phone a VW dealer parts dept, and although it is probably discontinued they should still be able to give you the part number then you can contact http://www.volkswagen-classicparts.de/ via Google translate if your not fluent in German.

Other wise google the part number itself I found a firm in Sweden had a stock of NOS flange's it cost me about thirty Euro.

Or you could all way's chuck the lot and fit a Weber carb or even better change over to fuel injection......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_kw=vauxhall+nova+weber

Edited 8 March, 201412 yr by Mk2 olop

Found one on Ebay from volksbits

Nice one let us know how you get on.............. :good:

Fitted it it's better but won't run properly and the oil light is coming on dimly , it's been off the road since 06 so may be it needs servicing ?

Maybe the carb is gunked up. There are various idle jets running jets in there plus a small pump that squirts a shot of fuel in when you open the throttle. There is probably a thin rubber diaphram somewhere in there too. Modern unleaded petrol contains ethanol which plays havoc with rubber and some metals. Get the carb onto table under a good light and strip it right down. remove what jets you can and blow them through with air.Be careful if you have to poke any holes out with wire, it can damage the brass jets. Check all rubber including fuel lines. You may find bits of perrished rubber or concrete-like residue from old fuel. You say it revs when you put your hand over the intake. Thats because you are. Creating extra vaccum and pulling fuel in. My guess is something is blocked upsetting the fine balance within the carb.

Just a thought or two hope it helps. By the way, you should make sure the fuel pump is ok and giving plenty of fuel on demand. Disconnet the spark plugs so it wont fire up. Disconnect fuel hose from carb inlet. Spin tbe engine over and loads of fuel should gush out. Make sure you catch the fuel and dont try it on Hot engine. Stay safe.

Ok I'll try that cheers for the info

It might be worth getting a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb as Jeff said,

A good tip when I rebuild carbs is use various diameter fishing line to poke any holes clear never submerge the carb in any sort of cleaner and its not vital but 100psi supply of air via a blow gun is very very handy.

Six year is a long time and a few to many cold damp winters causing gaskets and seals to wither and perish.

Edited 13 March, 201412 yr by Mk2 olop

It was stored inside for most of the time though

Still can't get her running right

All sorted blocked jet

Hi guys a new problem has now happened after replacing the rubber manifold within 200 miles the captive nuts had come out of it so I thought it was a faulty one replace it and the same has happened again can anyone help?

It does look like there's a bracket missing which goes from the engine to the manifold

There's a support bracket part 052129723D. between block and inlet manifold.

Any flex would give leakage at cylinder head surely?

http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/PO/1985/9/49/145843/

(you'll have to sign up to see vagcat)

Mine's not had a bolt (M8x18) attaching to engine block for 5+ years so I don't think it is actually needed.

How tight did you do up the nuts for the captive threads?

And what make was the carb flange?

I'd recommend Febi brand and don't overtighten.

Edited 21 February, 201511 yr by dvderlm

Hi I don't think I overtightened it I got it from GSF parts 12 months warranty on it