Can anyone tell me the bleeding sequence please? I cant find my Haynes manual and need to change my brake fluid.

iirc there is a slightly strange order to it isn't there?

Also I remember reading somewhere something about the rear pressure regulator needing something doing to it if you're bleeding the brakes, something about keeping the rear wheels on the ground or something?

Does this ring any bells with anyone?

Bleeding sequence 1 - Rear right wheel cylinder / brake caliper 2 - Rear left wheel cylinder / brake caliper 3 - Front right brake caliper 4 - Front left brake caliper A road test must be carried out after brakes have been bled.

Seem to recall the same about the pressure regulator,?

Edit:- this is for a LHD so the front brakes are reversed

Bleeding sequence 1 - Rear right wheel cylinder / brake caliper 2 - Rear left wheel cylinder / brake caliper 3 - Front right brake caliper 4 - Front left brake caliper A road test must be carried out after brakes have been bled.

Seem to recall the same about the pressure regulator,?

Edit:- this is for a LHD so the front brakes are reversed

Is this rear right as if I was sat in the vehicle or looking at it from the engine bay?

Thanks

Sat in the vehicle

furtest away first

You can have the car on stands provided you wedge the bias valve open with a bit of wood.

If you don't wedge it open/have the rear wheels on the ground, no fluid will get to the rear cylinders.

Assuming it's right hand drive.

Drivers rear

Passenger rear

Passenger front

Driver's front

It's that order because of the length of the brake pipes which are routed down the passenger side.

Assuming it's right hand drive.

Drivers rear

Passenger rear

Passenger front

Driver's front

It's that order because of the length of the brake pipes which are routed down the passenger side.

Thank you :)

Changed all lines and flexis recently, got some cheaper stainless braided hoses from a place called matt lewis racing. The bias valve is a nightmare to bleed and just keeps on firing out bubbles. If I hadn't filtered the bled fluid into a jar through kitchen roll and reused it, I'd have gone through about 3ltrs. I used kunifer tubing and a hand held flaring tool, I had problems with bad flares and leaks. If I had to do it again I'd buy a vice mounted professional flaring tool. You can use sockets as bending dies, the minimum bend radius is 14mm.

Bias valves can be a nightmare to bleed through. Assuming they've not got a crack hidden under the rust, it's worth wedging them in the fully open position (as if the vehicle was fully loaded). If it's got to desperate times, desperate measures, I've been known to take the output hoses off them and drop a couple of bleed nipples in (or cover it with a finger with a vinyl glove on), get it bled that far, then carry on to the back brakes.