Hi guys I'm quite new to all this but as i just bought a mk2 polo i thought i would get help from the experts as i I'm briking it right now .I just bought this little gem very cheap (let's say for less than 4 budget tyres;p)body has 0 rust interior 100% original including stereo sunroof no leaks and 86k on her little 1.3 from 88.I had a quick look for the usually rust spots and so far I found 1 hole on the driver's well where it's growing vegetables lol and 1 on the spare tyre well.its got a smashed windscreen and the complete exhaust has made a run for it:D.on top of that it's been lying for 5years on the drive since her last owner past away and the engine hasn't turn since.

I am looking for help to find spares if anyone has any lying about and advice on what I should start with or what the major issues are with mk2. I have had vw since I got my licence but never took on something like this so i am scared lol.it was love at first sight and i can wait to bring her home next friday.i bought her to do her up as a project for me and my son and i I'm hoping me and him can meet some of you guys at polo meetings in the future;)

That looks cool, i like it!

Hello and welcome

Hello and welcome to the forum.

It looks a great car - wouldn't mind it myself.

I have only just read your post, so you may well have things sorted out by now.

As the car has been standing for five years, I would recommend that you treat it to a new set of tyres for a start - even if the treads look OK, the sidewalls will probably have deteriorated, even to the point of being dangerous.

I would also fit a new timing belt and at least give the radiator hoses a VERY close inspection, renewing any that are suspect (if not renewing all of them.)

The carburettor sits on a rubber mounting - these are prone to deteriorate over time - A VERY basic check, is to grasp hold of the carburettor (or air cleaner) and give it a shake - if it moves a fair amount, the mounting may have failed, BUT it is intended to have some flexibility in it.

Petrol doesn't improve with keeping, and it might pay to empty the tank and have a fresh start.

Change the engine oil and filter and then change it again in about 500 miles - I do NOT recommend the use of flushing oil. Give it a FULL service, including checking that the brakes are OK and no fluid leaks.

It may also pay to change the gearbox oil, but at least check the level.

The rubber exhaust mountings tend to crack/split after a while, so again, give them a close inspection - or renew.

One of the disappointing things about this model, is that they do not have a brake servo, so need a fair amount of 'foot power' to make it stop.

Another weakness with many cars of that period, was the fuse holders. I recommend that you make a drawing of which fuse goes where and remove all of the fuses, clean up the clips that hold each fuse and also the tips of each fuse before putting them back. It isn't a bad habit to rotate each fuse in its holder from time-to-time, it helps to keep them clean. An alternative, is to fit a modern fuse board, although that is a bit of a pain, but if you are so inclined, download the catalogue from Vehicle Wiring Products of Ilkeston.

 

Do let us know how you get on with the car, it certainly looks well worth taking care of.

 

Regards.

 

Wekcome to clubpolo.

 

New battery too, probably if it has suffered 4 winters without charge.

 

Turn the engine over clockwise by hand before starting with the changed oil.

To make this easier remove sparkplugs and squirt a small amount of engine oil in each cylinder (teaspoon or less).

The oil pump will suck oil from sump and  push it around the engine as you turn by hand.

The oil in cylinder should lube the piston rings.

Then crank without plugs to blow the small amount of oil out, then refit plugs but king lead off coil and crank until oil light goes out.

Then refit king lead and if you have fresh petrol it should start.