I have some issues with my drivers side electric windows. Followed all the 'how to' tips I can find and I'm really no wiser. I think I have a vicious combination of duff switches, duff wiring and a seized motor.

So my question is really how do I get the motor out to see if I can un-seize it?

Cheers.

You won't be able to get the motor out without all the cables coming out, and then you'll never get hen back in. I've not seen many seize so to speak usually the cables get tangled inside the motor and twist up or even break.

Better off sticking a new window regulator in

You can get repair kits for the regulators (Cables, clamps, springs etc) but you need at least 3 pairs of hands and a lot of swearing!! so If it is damaged I'd do what Matt01 has suggested and look for a replacement regulator, four bolts and it's out!

Ok. The motor is out and it turns freely by hand but I need a wiring diagram to see how to power it up. You were right about the cables. All over the place!, to get the regulator mech out, the four bolts come out then what happens to the window glass? That's next! Wish me luck.

Do you have a two or ten pin connector on the motor?

The glass is held onto the regulator with two 10mm clamping bolts, then it will come out of the rubber guides

Motor connector is 10 pin, with everything disassembled and the motor plugged in I can hear the relay clicking but nothing happens with the motor. With the motor removed and on the bench, 12 directly to the main motor terminals on the pcb and the motor still fails to turn. With the motor disassembled the brushes are intact and the commutator clean and bright. There's no evidence of any burnt winding wires and the spindle turns freely. Spinning the assembly in a drill produces voltage so the magnets, windings and commutator are working ok.

If I could get the motor to turn I would suspect the 12v feed into the door to be the problem but even on the bench the motor won't fire up

Thanks for the diagrams above

The wiring between the door and body in the flexy rubber tube are a very common area for failure

if I could get the motor to run on the bench this would be my thinking too, but I can't get it to run at all

cheers

Looking at the diagrams you need to connect

Pin 5 Ground

Pin 10 +12v

Pin 7 +12v

Pin 4 +12v for Down or Ground for up

Pin 1 +12v for the one touch down

The other connections are for the central locking full closure

I've gone much further than just getting the motor out...

12v direct to the two pins should make the motor turn as the pins connect straight to the brushed

Nothing

Ok an update.

For two days the motor has worked on the bench. Now just as I'm going to install it all back the motors stopped working again. Makes no sense at all.

I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a used motor and install that, really need to get them working ASAP. Pain,

http://www.stevensvwspares.com/

PoloD.

Thanks for that. I've won a golf window motor that looks similar I'm going to strip that out and swap over the actual drive motor and see if that solves it. All the mechanism is on the bench and the motor is running again. But it's just not consistent so no point putting it back in just yet.

I hate intermittent faults, especially ones that seem to have no root cause.

Problem finally solved. Three problems rolled into one, here's my theory........

The switch had gone a bit dodgy and a PO must have tried to check it out by hot wiring the motor and burning out the windings and then given up. Another(?) attempt involved messing up the door wire connector by cutting the supply wire for whatever reasons (cleanly cut)

So the prolonged solution involved opening and cleaning the switch, buying a new (used) motor assembly and er soldering the cut (not chaffed) supply wire

Result