have you ordered some assembly lube?

Yup, got some with a batch of stuff I got last payday, Got lube, Valve lapping tool and grinding paste's, Head gasket, head bolts and a few other things, I just done the most expensive stuff now though

Trying to get the head ready as soon as possible before my block bits arrive

So today I have cleaned the head with rag and stripped it, removed the stem seals and done an old fashioned trick of dipping the valve stems in oil and slotting them in the valve guides to see how they drop. 3 of them stopped halfway down and the others went down slowly so I think my guides are all good...I'm not sure on this technique so much though as surely different oil viscosities will have a different effect on the valve drop speed :/ I used 10w40 which I just had laying about.

I started lapping the valves a bit and had leak tested before the head was stripped and no water escaped. I have heard mixed opinions on lapping but thought I would do a small amount just to widen the band of the valve contact area to its normal amount as it's supposed to help discipate heat better if spread over the wider contact area. I have perfect bands now on 3 valves...doing the rest tomorrow morning.

Edited 31 December, 201510 yr by wizardmanjm

isnt the wear test to raise the valve and see how much wiggle there is?

a cordless drill with some clear hose on it makes lapping easy ...be carefull no paste gets onto the stem

Yeah can do that too apparently but how much wiggle is too much wiggle lol? I've heard this trick being used and it sort of makes sense so I tried it, my vernier can't get in to measure the guides either

Here's how to test the valve guides Testing 8v Valve Guides.doc

Thanks nige :)

Yeah I'm wondering where the test position is exactly, they barely move at all in the normal working zone but move about a mm at least near the top of the stem

I was wondering why I was getting a good band when lapping after not very long and then funnily enough checked a stem seal to see if it had a part number on it and I found "Elring" and "2010" indicating the stem seals Atleast where changed 5 years ago and being that valves should be lapped whenever removed I'm assuming that's why my seats and valves weren't bad to start with...was probably a head gasket job or something and they replaced the lot.

Overall the head looks good and I can't find any burrs or any damage . I'll take a picture tomorrow of the valves etc because it's hammering it down now and I'm not going back in the garage for the sake of a photo but here is the stem seal

Anyone remember a while back me saying that my sills were in bad shape (literally). Well I pictured the worst one and I still suspect this was done at a crap tire place being trolley jacked on the sill...either that or over using the scissor jack in the non reinforced section has took its toll

I had a sill go like that after getting my tires done on the Peugeot 106 years back and that was one of the things that made me sell it. I'm more confident in learning my welding properly now and do intend to repair this with some new sill sections in the future

Edited 1 January, 201610 yr by wizardmanjm

Nothing too interesting happening really, the rings and bearings showed up and I fitted all bearings and all piston rings except one set as I need to remove a nick on that piston before I fit them

This was the most worn bearing, dont know why I measured them really but I like to think I'm doing something good by swapping new ones in...Suppose the ones with hardly any meat on would have made for a noisy bottom end

Then a new one

Then like I said all rings fitted except the one set as the piston needs a nick smoothed first

I'm hoping the oil pump chain will arrive tomorrow and if I have enough time I will make an attempt and take pictures to document that a bit too

I do wonder whether I should just replace the piston with the couple nicks in it, Its supposed to be fine how it is but theres nothing like peace of the mind. Then as steve mentioned a while ago the quality of an aftermarket replacement will also be to question

Well I got some pictures for steveo showing what tension my chain is...funny thing is I could have sworn it was less slack when I first removed the sump and looked

Anyway a picture of the valve lapping after it was done...picture quality isnt perfect...phone couldnt focus with the garage light directly above me

A GT cam arrived...A couple wear marks on the lobes as with most cams but not scoring and all very smooth

And this B*****d thing arrives FINALLY!

Anyway that was the last piece of the puzzle so in theory I can start assembling the block right now. We will have to see what is required of me work wise on the weekend. But my fingers are crossed that I can get a good start in for this.

Another thing I did forget all about is a torque wrench! The one we have is about 20 years old and probably not very accurate...Not a big problem as I can pop out to somewhere and buy one

Edited 7 January, 201610 yr by wizardmanjm

Slept all day when I said I would stay awake after my last night shift so didn't get anything done.

I am about to get started though and assuming I get that bolt loose and change the pump chain I can start assembling...I just wanted to ask your opinions on something...where exactly would you use the assembly lube?

I've searched about and other forums say that engines with flat tappets should have the cam and the tappets lightly lubed and any drive gears which I can't think there are any on this engine? As they were described as dizzy drive gear etc I also wondered about lubing the crank where the conrod bearings will be or is it not really necessary due to the coating on the bearings?

I ask because apparently using it in too many places may make the first start a bit harder for the engine

I would lube the crank where all the bearings make contact and that is pretty much it.

For the cam I've always just coated the bearing surfaces in new engine oil and never had an issue.

lube all the moving parts , bearings , chain , cam ...some folk do the piston rings dry or with wd40 with the idea they bed in better , up to you to have a read up and decide whats the best idea

Thanks for the input guys, so turns out it's more of an opinion thing than an absolute right answer a bit like the running in conundrum lol

I think I'll Atleast lightly coat everything that's moving just to be safe, I was going to do the same for rings to use wd40 after reading on that a bit. Ah well...hope it runs well after its all done!

Bit pissed off today. Thought I would atleast have all the engine assembled and ready for it to sit on its mounts before I go on my training course but I haven't even got the pistons in yet. Turns out that if you buy a piston ring compressor you better spend a couple quid extra and get a decent one rather than one from hong kong for 3 quid [emoji38]

It wouldnt compress the rings at all. it got tight and then even though I could physically go a lot tighter it stopped locking on the cog wheel part because it deforms so much when it gets tighter. It then broke when I said f**k it and tightened it right up anyway. All the crank is greased and the pistons are ready to go in...i might head to a shop and get a decent compressor tomorrow instead.

On a brighter note I have bought a full set of GT seats. They are waaay more comfier than the cl seats. The misses should be happy with them as she always complained before. I will update with pictures tomorrow with how far I have got. Do not get too excited though.

Edited 15 January, 201610 yr by wizardmanjm

Losing the will to live here. Wish I had just put the engine in and been done with it.

You will probably think I'm being retarded here. After all compressing the rings and fitting the pistons looks a piece of piss in every instruction and video you will ever see.

I bought a new sealey compressor and I swear to god they will not compress nowhere near enough. I thought I had one of them after tapping it down but I've just broken a bloody ring. They are seated correctly and I have put a bit oil on them to help but they don't want to go in. I can barely slide the piston in the compressor itself so I know it's bloody tight.

The only thing I could think is if I've bought oversized rings but I can't find anything on the sellers listing when I translate it that would suggest that.

I'm done with it now, I might come back with portsmouth with a fresh head and order new rings or I might just get another damn engine.

Okay that would explain it. The rings that they sent me are for all the other engines. I have emailed them to say I have been sent the wrong ones and tried to use them assuming they were correct. I bloody hope I dont have to spend another 50 quid on piston rings. Will be an expensive lesson if I do,

The rings I fitted fit on the narrow inner edge but wont compress in anymore because they get a bit thicker. I wish I had thoroughly checked item numbers etc now. Feel like a right dick. I am happy in a way. Atleast it means this stumbling block wasnt due to lack of skill!!!!!

whatd they send you? gt rings arent specific to just gt are they

Yep, apprantly the gt (3f) are same as these ABD AEV AAU HZ AAK AEX APQ

And the other listing suggests AAV, PY, 2g, HK, GK etc. I am worried as both listing suggest AAK which doesn't make sense. Why would the AAK be able to use both sizes...

Taken from VAGCAT.

030198151 1 set: piston rings / comprising: / piston ring, upper / piston ring, lower / oil scraper ring
75,00 75,00X1,75 75,00X2 75X3 / PY,HZ,NZ,2G, AAV,ACM

030198151B

1 set: piston rings / comprising: / piston ring, upper / piston ring, lower / oil scraper ring
75,00 75,00X1,5 75,00X1,5 75,00X2,5 / 3F,AAU

So it seems the 3F and AAU are different to all the others...

Here's the GT seats I bought and fitted yesterday morning

Think the blue part of seats matches the cl blue carpet and door cards well but I'm undecided on the parcel shelf, also apologies for the crap in my car. It's playing a big part in tool and part storage now it's not in use.

Also took lots of parts to the tip. Feel horrible chucking big things away but I can't keep them here and I couldn't even give them away! This is the last update for 2 weeks now.

Bye guys! [emoji4]

Misses just sent me this picture to say the now correct piston rings have arrived! And I've also been gifted a free bag of haribo :)

did they sort you out for no ££

I paid for the new rings and then emailed after and was surprised to see they refunded my second payment :) so yes lol apart from about 5 euro difference between the list price as the 3f rings are a little more

Got to love haribo.

Seats look good too. Like the pattern.

Thanks mate, everyone is in a hurry to get rid of these and fit genesis style with scirocco seats or whatever but I love this pattern and it suits my interior and exterior more

Happy Birthday! Any goodies for the car?

Cheers Martin, stuck in Portsmouth so not really knowing what I've got till I'm home and have an unofficial birthday lol

Sadly nobody buys me car parts even when requested as that's "not a proper present" [emoji23]

Spill the beans then John, are you buying that MK2 GT breadvan?

Will have to wait and see Martin, going to take a train to see it on Monday lol

Awesome! Feel free to detour slightly on the way back (if you buy it). I'd love to take a gander.

Great day today with the wizardman. A plan of him going to get a GT engine conversion then us two splitting the bits so he can have the GT injection side and I had the head and the block, turned into him keeping it and me purchasing his current 3F engine that he's been rebuilding along with a AUD gearbox.

Then out of my wisdom, I said "when I come to pick the engine up tomorrow, we're putting yours in :D" And well... it happened! Also includes Pikeytech engineering at its finest :P

I assumed as he had removed the old engine he had an engine crane or equipment of sorts to remove it.. Nope!

Between the two of us we lifted the whole engine over the slam panel into the bay onto some tyres and fitted the engine mount, then the dilemma of how the F*ck do we get the engine back up slightly and hold it to remove the tyres and fit the gearbox??

Well this :P a bit a metal channelling and single core cable

Lifted the engine up and hung it off the cable very sucessfully!

Next was the fun mission of fitting the gearbox.. John has a picture courtesy of his other half of me straddling his front panel fitting the gearbox by hand whilst he lined it up which I'm sure he'll share later.

Gearbox attached

See look evidence of Mr wizardman working today :P Despite the difficulty of fitting an engine with no equipment the language managed to stay away from getting blue at all :)

Engine is in place and mounted with the gearbox. Loom is all in place just needs plugging in to engine. I'm expecting him to have this at the social this year!

End product of several hours work with some spanners, a socket set, a jack, a piece of metal and cable.

Edited 12 March, 201610 yr by xumado

I'll add a couple pictures tomorrow, Xumado covers what we did well lol.

And to think I was looking for rope in the garage couldn't find any to support the engine so used cable...then when tidying up the first thing I saw in the garage was rope...under a toolbox were also some damn lifting straps [emoji38]

Productive day, Julian is a bit of a monster compared to me...he can lift a gearbox with one arm as if he's picking up his phone lol.

Lesson of today is. Put everything together and hire a damn crane lol. Although tbf the idea of sticking the engine in was Julian's at rather short notice and was a bit of a surprise