Hi guys fixed my initial brake problem replace the rear hose filled up the liquid then went to bleed the system and all of the nuts on the bleed nippels are rusted to nothing seized and rounded great! <br />

I have no brakes <br />

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Please advise or is it scrap time

Just replace the brake cylinder, only a few ££ from a motorfactors.

Good point, forgot about them :) I was going to say smash a smaller socket on and get them off, then just replace the nipples.

If you do replace the cylinders, then it's a good idea to change the nipples on the front because they will be in similar shape.

Just been out and bled the fronts via brake line where it meets the caliper . pedal went still then 10 seconds later straight the floor again ??

How have you been bleeding it?

I usually have someone sit in the car then pump the pedal until it's solid, then bleed front left, then rear right front righ then ear left. So when the pedal is firm (once they have pumped it) they hold it and you realise the bleeder, ideally with a clear tube on it to see what's coming out.the repeat until your happy.

Or if you have an ex bleed or similar, then put that onto the brake reservoir to replace the person pumping the pedal as it provides pressure to the fluid, so just go round and bleed each side.

All that is fairly pointless if you can bleed the rears as that were the majority of the air is.

Little pointer you should start with the furthest away from master cylinder

Good point, makes sense.

Is there any need to do them in a cross pattern?

It's just the way I've always done it with the ezbleeder, but I use about 3-4 litres of fluid because I want to make sure there is no air at all, and also the colour is the same as what came out the bottle. Maybe OCD, but I don't know any other way :)

Its to do with any moisture and and air so it doesn't get trapped say half way in system i believe. At work i use a old fairyliquid bottle half full with old fluid with a pipe submerged and onto nipple about 10 pumps each corner is usually sufficient.

Ally bleed nipples are siezed or rounded

Please advise

new rear cylinders then

and soak the fronts and try vice grips etc then replace the nipples with new ones

You often find that the rear brakes can be the most difficult to bleed.

This is due to the fact that the auto adjusters tend to hold the shoes in the 'out' position, this is even more noticeable as the linings wear down and the auto adjusters compensate for this.

The above action of the auto adjusters results, in the pistons taking up a position away from the fully retracted one. This leaves an air space in the cylinders which can be almost impossible to overcome by bleeding, so you end up with a very 'spongey' brake pedal.

The answer to the above, is to first of all, remove the brake drums.

Then release the auto adjuster wedge, clamping the shoes with something like ratchet type luggage straps, so that the pistons are held FULLY into the cylinders.

Now bleed the brakes by whatever method you like and when you put the drums back on, you will (or should) have a 'solid' pedal (once the auto adjusters have compensated for wear in the first [or so] presses of the pedal.)

Regards

Good info, I have read this a few times but totally forget about it in practice. Makes total sense to me at least

As for the stuck nipples, on all the calipers I have been rebuilding lately I have heated them with a propane torch and they can out easily, but this may not be such a good idea on the car as may damage something. Have you tried a small socket forced over it? An 8mm multipoint (18 point?) socket should go on easily enough. Might pay to put a small amount of pressure into tightening it just before turning it to loosen it.

To add my 2p to the OP's question, I'd try literally everything possible to get the nipples out. They're literally pence and are so much easier to replace than cylinders and, ultimately, callipers at the front.