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Xenon Dual Beam problems

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just bought and fitted a dual beam xenon kit from XenonsOnline. I've fitted xenons before and never had problems but am having some troubles with these on my 6n. after fitting the kit i went to go through the lights to check them and only had side lights and main beam working...no dipped beam (the xenon bulb). iv found if i flick the light switch off and on repeatedly they eventually come on and work fine. so that eliminates short power supply etc. iv also found that when i eventually get them to turn on if i flick my lights back down to sides then one headlight will stay on and flash.....like an indicator......faulty relay?

just want to know what you guys think. is it something iv done wrong or should i be sending this kit back?

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Have you disconnected the dim-dip resistor behind the passenger side front indicator? as with it in place you might not be getting enough voltage for the power unit to strike up the unit,

There's no relays involved the power just goes through the switch contacts on the column switch

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i haven't no ill give it a go. should the ballast not increase voltage though? and how come when they eventually fire up the headlamps work fine. bright as ever?

cheers!

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and my kit comes with a ballast and a relay. i was thinking the relay could be faulty?

Try powering directly from battery after its all been off for a while.

If you are powering the dip beam via a dim-dip resistor for a while before trying low beam, the balast may be overheating and shutting down.

Alternativly, if the starter (may be enclosed in same casing as the balast) is seeing too low a voltage under load, this will prevent it from starting.

Have you attached the power-in pin of the relay directly to the battery (via a new fuse) and earthed the balast directly to chassis/battery ground? If not, do so before returning the kit.

The balast does not increase voltage, it may be combined with a starter that provides a strike voltage (to strike the arc) but once its running, the balast limits the current to the bulb (thereby providing a steady voltage) as the current drawn changes as the bulb warms up.

Do not be fooled by seeing correct voltages when the bulb/balast/starter is not drawing current - unless your wiring & connections are 100% the voltages will drop off rapidly when the load is connected.

Edited by kbs

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