Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
Light/Dark Mode Enabled: You can now select the option by clicking the moon/lightbulb in the top right corner!

Bleeding Cooling System


Go to solution Solved by nige8021,

Recommended Posts

goldielocks

Hey everyone!

Just finished doing a major service on my Polo and think I may have filled the cooling system incorrectly as I think I've identified two air locks... I thought I filled it slowly but not slowly enough!

Although, if this is all I did wrong on the service (cam belt, water pump, aux belt, thermostat, fan temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor) then I think I'm happy as it's the first time I've ever done anything this major, but wondering if anyone can provide any tips on clearing them?

1. The heater now doesn't blow hot. The two hoses going into the heater bit (under the wind shield) are hot at the bottom (engine end) but feel cold/empty at the top (wind screen end).

2. The top radiator hose is getting warm to the level I'd expect, but the bottom radiator hose doesn't heat up at all. The top of the hose feels as though it's got liquid in it that just remains cold but the bottom of the hose (connected to the radiator) feels completely empty as if it's just got air in it. I guess this is some kind of air lock stopping the coolant from circulating rather than just the thermostat not opening but not 100% on that?

Can anyone provide any tips on getting these sorted?

Thanks in advance!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • nige8021

    2

  • goldielocks

    2

  • Fungus

    1

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Solution
nige8021

Take the cap off the expansion bottle (only with a cold engine!) then run the engine at 2~2500rpm for 15 mins as at idle the water pump isn't very effective, this should "burp out" any air locks, keep an eye on the water level and top up with water/antifreeze mix as required, then refit expansion bottle cap and again run @ same rpm for 5~10 mins then allow to cool and top up if required

Link to post
Share on other sites
goldielocks

Take the cap off the expansion bottle (only with a cold engine!) then run the engine at 2~2500rpm for 15 mins as at idle the water pump isn't very effective, this should "burp out" any air locks, keep an eye on the water level and top up with water/antifreeze mix as required, then refit expansion bottle cap and again run @ same rpm for 5~10 mins then allow to cool and top up if required

Perfect, thanks Nige, I'll give that a go tomorrow evening and report back.

Is there any trick to get it running at 2-2500rpm using VCDS or otherwise, or do I need to sit there with my foot on the accelerator?

Link to post
Share on other sites
nige8021

No VCDS trick available as far as I know, I used a bit of rigid plastic tube onto the pedal and clamped it to the steering wheel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines