Hi there guys, as the title says I am having problems with my mk2f.

From cold it will REALLY struggle to start. it cranks fine and occasionally splutters but will usually take a while to actually get going (If it ever does)

When it finally gets running it won't idle by itself until it get's up to temperature, I will have to hold it at 1.5/2k RPM or it will just die. Once it is warm it runs fine, idles and pulls like it should it's just a pain in the ass when it's cold.

Could anyone shed some light on what might be causing this?

The timing is checked and fine so I'm thinking blue temp sender?

Thanks in advance

UPDATE: All this gradually got worse and now it won't start at all and nobody seems to be able to work out why! Join in on the mystery!

UPDATE: Now starts again, previous cold start/rough running issue is still there.

Edited 26 November, 201510 yr by Bluemarktwo

1) Check for vacuum leaks.

2) Change the temperature sensor.

Regards

Hi there,

I've checked for vaccuum leaks and I can't find any. I was literally looking and feeling around though, is there a better way to test for leaks?

Also is there anywhere to buy the temp sensors? I can't find any genuine ones

Thanks

Update: I've been out for another fiddle with the car. If I unplug the airflow meter sensor nothing happens but then the engine dies when I plug it back in

Adjust the idle slightly might work. If not tighten the throttle cable a little to compensate. Will make it run better but there will be an underlining problem and this is just a quick fix.

I wouldn't have thought it would be any of that because it idles fin when it's warm and bogs and splutters if you rev it before it gets warm

thank you

Is this the bosch SPI fuel system?

Could be that its working OK once the Lambda is warmed up?

You will need a multimeter and manual to check;

Lambda

TPS

MAF

If you are not happy weilding a meter, time to find an interested garage.

It's running GT mpi injection.

I suppose it could be the lambda. It's almost like it just isn't getting enough fuel on start up

Disconnect the lambda sensor and see if it runs better. When you disconnect the lambda the ecu runs on a default setting.

It wouldnt hurt to change the black and blue iil oressure sensors and thermostat sensors, cost about £20 and will aid smooth running

Thanks guys. I'll give it a go.

Kiran could you link me to anywhere that sells the sensors? I'm struggling to find any genuine ones

Get the sensors from VW or TPS

I've just replaced the blue temperature sensor and still nothing. Neither of the oils pressure sensors are plugged in because I've got a gauge wired up instead.

Any other ideas guys?

I've been out again to have a look and the dizzy is leaking oil and it was slightly better with the lamda unplugged. So maybe an ECU full of fault codes and a ruined dizzy?

Also, will a normal 1.3 dizzy work with the GT injection?

I've now changed the dizzy as it did have what I believe to be wrong one (Code ending in AE). It's still all timed up and still won't run.

Anyone have any ideas whatsoever? I'm at a loss

Edited 19 October, 201510 yr by Bluemarktwo

Are you getting a decent spark? What dizzy did you fit?

Sounds like a decent spark but I can't see it and crank it at the same time.

Fitted a 030 905 205 AB. I found a post on here about which dizzys work on GTs and got the part number from there

Sounds like a decent spark but I can't see it and crank it at the same time.

Set up your mobile phone to record a video of a plug while you crank?

It may also need someone to rotate the dizzy as you crank to find a point where the engine will fire over. Then once the engine is warm go through the ignition timing procedure.

Update:

No spark at all now but it's a new coil, new HT leads and now a new dizzy but the cap feels really loose (like 2-3mm movement side to side)

No spark from the coil either

Are you getting power to the coil? Sounds like it is time to get the multimeter out.

It seems to me that you now have two separate faults.

You could try putting the original distributor back in to see if the spark returns.

As for the original fault, the fact that unplugging the MAF sensor improved things, suggests that it may well be that which is causing the problem - Running without it may well put on the warning light, but the fact that the engine runs better with it unplugged, I feel is telling you that it would like you to fit it a new one.

Regards

I would assume that I'm not getting any power to the coil as there's no spark coming from it.

As for the MAF it didn't run noticeably better when it was unplugged but it did die then it was plugged back in.

I'd imagine I do have several different faults but it was running and just struggling to start and now I've got nothing from it haha!

I've just bought a multimeter (should really have got one a while ago haha) how do I go about checking if I have power to the coil?

*Frustration warning: I'm utterly useless with electronics so I'll probably need painfully clear instructions!

Edited 30 September, 201510 yr by Bluemarktwo

I've also bought a new earth strap to replace the one that goes from the gearbox Mount to the coil pack as it's a bit tatty. I'm guessing the problem won't be entirely down to a bad earth but I figure it can't hurt!