That's my plan although would a faulty lambda not throw up a fault code?

Didn't always with me. But there are a few different symptoms of a failing lambda sensor.

Ah right Ok, I'll get on that next and hopefully that will solve it! At least it seems to be back on 4 cylinders so that's a step in the right direction!

Went out and unplugged the lambda which didn't seem to make any difference. I unplugged the blue temp sender and tweaked the timing and idle and I've managed to get it up to temperature with it idling by itself. It idles at the right speed but still a bit lumpy, if I blip the throttle it seems to bog and then take itself up to 2k RPM so something still isn't right

She finally passed the MOT today! Still sometimes dies if left to idle just after start up but this might be fixed with some timing tweaks. Picks up really well and seems to be making full power! Finally enjoyed driving the car after god knows how long!

Thats good to hear. Been a bit of a marathon advice session :)

Well the marathon apparently isn't over! Now getting flat batteries all the time. I'm hoping it's just because I haven't had a chance to give the battery a full charge in a while because I haven't changed anything else and the battery was fine.

On second thought, I put a permenant earth from the horn press to the steering wheel boss to make it work to pass the MOT, could that cause a bad enough drain? It went flat overnight

Going to unplug it and just deal with the broken horn, I never use it anyway haha

Edited 7 January, 201610 yr by Bluemarktwo

Right so I put the battery in it again today after being on charge for about 5 hours and it was fine but now it's flat. I sorted out the horn situation but something else must still be draining the battery. I'm not leaving anything on when it happens, it was running fine 40 minutes ago so I'm stumped

Just found a red wire coming from under the dash that's not connected to anything, anyone know what this is?

Edited 7 January, 201610 yr by Bluemarktwo

Just got jump started to get home. Tried to start it up no more than 3 minutes after shutting her off and the battery was dead again. I'm working on the assumption that the battery is a goner as I don't know anything that van drain a battery that quickly!

Seem to have fixed the flat battery problems. Put a new battery in, current is good and the voltage is good when the car is off and when it's on. Still having the same cold start problem as always, timing and idle adjustment don't seem to make a difference

Has the starter been replaced?

Starter hasn't been replaced but it starts fine now, the old battery was just absolutely knackered

Just been thinking....

Could it be a sooted up valve that doesn't seat correctly when cold causing a lack of compression in 1 cylinder?

I wouldn't have thought it would clear up so abruptly if this was the case but it's an idea

can you do antother list of all thats been replaced and tested so we can see where we are, normally problems like this turn out to be silly things like a old wire twisted that breaks or reduces connection or the fuse seat is corroded

Sure mate:

Plugs+king lead replaced

Coil replaced

HT leads replaced

Fuel pump+filter replaced

Blue temp sender replaced

Distributor replaced

Rotor arm+cap replaced

Left and right engine earths upgraded

Timing checked

Hall sender checked

Battery voltage (static and running checked)

I think that's everything but I've done so much to it lately that I've probably forgot something haha

thats pretty much fuel and electric covered, AMF? TPS?

Edited 17 January, 201610 yr by kiran_182

They aren't throwing up any codes and it doesn't seem to make a difference when they're unplugged

Just been thinking, I'm aware that your're supposed to rev the engine above 3k, 3 times and let it return to idle when you replace the blue temp sensor. I have done this but is there any way to check that it's cleared as it should? Thinking this could be the cause as I still can't think of anything else that would be a solely temperature dependant issue

Hi just been reading through. Sorry to see your having so much aggro. What engine is this? Is it a mechanical injection? I've seen problems with corrosion in the high pressure fuel lines causing blockages and similar issues.

What code reader are you using?

Hi Steve, it's electric MPI on an AAV 1.3. I think all the lines are fine as it runs well when warm and ran fine a few months ago, no visible signs of corrosion.

Using an OBDII code reader, was suggested earlier on in this thread. Used it to clear a load of codes a few times

Ah right. What's the mpi system from? Also have you drained the fuel and put fresh petrol in? Also worth doing a compression test at cold. I've seen a few engine have starting problems due to valves sticking. Once it's been cranking over they eventually pick up and go as if there's never been a problem.

The MPI system is from a Mk2f GT. Had fresh petrol in it, I tried putting some higher octane fuel in it as well.

I had considered a sticky valve or a poor valve seat as it clears up at pretty much the exact same temperature every time.

It feels like it misfires until hot

Oh I thought the electronic injection didn't come in til mk 3. Just looked it up and think it's got a waxstat on the throttle body. They are prone to failing.

I'll be honest mate, I've got no idea what a waxstat is, never heard of one haha