yesterday I removed one of the front calipers on a 6n2. I clamped the rubber hose with a metal bar type hose clamp, but being the genius I am I managed to tighten ti all therapy down so no when I refit the calipers and removed the clamp there are now 2 big Brent's in the hose.

Am I right in saying I have now damaged the hose and need to replace?

The dents are pretty good and haven't gone away after stamping on the pedal hard a few times, but then again if they did then surely they would be faulty

Also as for the replacements, I see some cheap ones on eBay, but they don't look like they Dont come with the banjo bolt or washers. Are these easily removable? They didn't look like they came off so no doubt they are tricky.

Thanks

I'd say replacing the hose is the best bet, I was always told never to clamp a brake hose anyway as it will damage it.

Banjo bolts are easily found online, providing you know the thread and size, and the washers are just normal copper washers, you get decent sets of various sizes online for a few quid and they will last you years.

As above, I don't like clamping hoses either.

I would recommend replacing it, but with a decent one - don't cut corners on brakes, your life (and maybe my life!) depend on them to work. You should be able to get one at a reasonable price from your local motor factors.

Did you mean the banjo bolt, or were you referring to the actual banjo union? (the part that the bolt goes through) - If it is the latter, these are part of the hose, they are factory fitted as such, there is no safe way that you can transfer them to a new hose.

Regards

i dont clamp em either , put some cling film under the filler cap and should stop some of it coming out

then just let it make a mess onto some cardboard , better than wrecking the hose

Thanks for the advice guys. The brake pipe itself isn't even that old and ironically the only one that had been changed.

Called euro parts and there price is actually better then Evans so I got all four, and also the rear arm bushes as I figure might as well do the lot.

My ethic is that the most important parts of the car are the brakes and the tyres everything else is second tho that. Just have to look at some of the fortifications crashes that could have been avoided by something as simple as a tyre to make you realise how important they are.

Yes I meant the banjo bolt itself not the pressed on union part. Turns out the bolt will come out but will need new washers. The ones from ECP come complete so just bolt on.

Steve03002 can you please elaborate on the cling film part? Do you mean use it to cover the reservoir under the cap?

I've always used the clamp but only to very gently squeeze the pipe but this time I got carried away and kept tightening it until it stopped. Ironically the whole idea was to avoid having to bleed as much as only a small amount of air would be inside. Oh well.

Thanks guys

yeah cling film or a plastic bag over the filler hole then replace the cap , you can also jam the pedal down with a broom handle to stop it draining out

Honestly never even thought of using the pedal :) that's freaking genius.

Looks like I'm ditching the clamps from now on.

Thanks guys.

Clamps can be useful when you can't determine where an air bubble might be in the system but should only be closed up very lightly.

I once saw a chap using Mole Grips to clamp a brake hose - don't think that I would have trusted the hose after that!

Regards

Seen garages 'mole grip' a hose when having difficulty getting fluid into a dry system.

Don't think they would do it on their own vehicles though.

If you have a dry hose that just won't bleed - use a (low pressure) auto bleed kit (one you blow up slightly). If you're too tight to buy such a kit, use a babies medicine syringe to push fluid down the (detached solid) hose from the master cylinder. Once the hose is mostly filled - you can bleed it normally.

Also seen 'mechanics' reverse bleeding (forcing fluid up the bleed nipple) using an old windscreen washer pump! Far too much chance of introducing dirt.