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Carb problems so fitting an abd...

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So, when I first got the car it ran on a 5 litre can under the bonnet as the guy I bought it from said there was something wrong with the lines but from this can it ran fine apart from a slightly high idle. Since getting it back I've had the tank off and cleaned, fitted new fuel lines and a new fuel pump. Today I managed to get it running but every time I tried the throttle it would just starve and die unless I slowly opened it up and then it would rev as far as it could go.

Anyways I can't bring myself to pay out the ass for a nice new carb so have decided to fit an abd. Not a road I intended to go down as I was trying to keep it a nice cheap n cheerful 1.0. But I've found a donor for reasonable money.

My overall question(s) being what do I need to to keep from the donor and is there anything I need to swap from my engine over to the abd. Btw my polo is an '86... HZ I think.

Also tbf if anyone knows of a quick fix on the carb I'm all ears but I'm fair sure it's clogged up with crap.. Although like I say it did run fine previously

All help appreciated people. Help a brother out getting her back on the road :) cheers

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Gear box and alternator and everything are fine as it's the same block, the only thing is your engine has a fuel pump in the back of the head? So your gonna need an electric fuel pump, I'd reccomend a bike pump and bike carbs 👍

Edited by Buxton

The fact that you can build up the revs, albeit over a period of time, might suggest that you have either a vacuum leak or partially blocked jet.

Make a visual inspection of vacuum pipes.

With the engine idling (as best it will), spray carb-cleaner (or WD40 if you must!) around the carburettor mounting, throttle spindle, manifold joints and listen for a change in engine speed/sound - this would indicate a vacuum leak.

If you decide to strip the existing carburettor, do so on a clean flat surface, so that you don't loose any small parts.

If you are not used to working on carburettors, take some pictures as you go, that way can see where everything goes.

A tin of 'Carb Cleaner' will clean everything up - or you could use cellulose thinners - don't use paint stripper though, as whilst it will dissolve the varnish, it can also block up some of the passages.

Cleanliness is the name of the game, as even something as small as a hair inside (say) the slow running jet can mess up the idling.

Hold each jet up to the light - not bright light, or you will just dazzle yourself, check for partial obstructions, if the orifice doesn't look 'round', there is probably something inside it.

If you blow out jets with compressed air, make sure that (1) you hold on tight to it (2) there is a clear space for it to go to should you blow it out of your fingers - easily done!

Use a well fitting screwdriver in all jets, otherwise it is all too easy to damage them - don't overtighten for the same reason.

Upon reassembly, carefully screw 'in' the mixture screw until you just feel it 'bottom' on its seat, then unscrew it exactly one-and-a-half turns - this is the approximate setting for it. - Final adjustment needs to be made when the engine is running and is up to normal operating temperature (about 90°c).

Regards

Yeah the moment when you blow out a jet with compressed air and it goes flying into the corner under loads of junk and takes ages to find 😂 been thier done that haha.

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