so every once in a while we talk about how it would be great to have a full width scuttle cover to replace the flimsy original one , at that point someone usualy wades in and says their stud mate can offer us these in oem quality for pennys then it all dies off and we never hear again

what ideas have you all got that would get us something suitable

my thoughts are that a flat cut out of perspex isnt really good enough as theres no seal along the front and rear so water would drip in worse than the orig part

my thoughts are make a mdf pattern for a fibre glass one so that it has a lip front and back for a rubber seal to fit on ?

please share any sensible ideas /thoughts , i want to look into making one for myself and possibly for sale if it turned out okay

Not much help but man, there is some real money to be made if you could get something going, everytime someone puts a post about them, there's supporters with money ready, my dad works at a school and I always try to get him to make them with the laser cutters and equipment they have there, but the school don't permit it, I think realistically if you can get it designed and ready to be sold for a price not much more than the original tack, you're on to a winner

Edited 28 November, 201510 yr by JasonBready

Also I think, perspex would be okay if you had drain holes that could some how have some sort of "guttering"

Also I think, perspex would be okay if you had drain holes that could some how have some sort of "guttering"

i dont really see how as it would be flat and nothing easy to join on and make the lip , i wouldnt be into making flat ones that let water in worse than an original one like the few I've seen , sure okay on a show car thats sits in a garage but they're meant to direct the water away

Yeah fair point in fact as the water will need a directional travel, which wouldn't be so easy with perspex, fibreglass is the next idea like you've already said

I did a post some time a go about this subject using a canvas like material to cover the whole scuttle which in practice is working quite well in that it lets less water into that area. So if you did not pick up on that post:

1: Order some canvas off Ebay in a colour to match the paint of the car or close to it.

2: Buy some U shaped rubber that is about 10mm wide long enough to go from one side of the scuttle to the other.

3: Cut a piece of canvas larger than needed but small enough to work with.

4:Clean the rear lip of the scuttle thoroughly the where the original rubbish cover used to clip on to using kitchen roll and something like carb cleaner to get it clean as possible.

5: Clip the canvas to the front lip of the scuttle temporarily with tape or bulldog clips to hold it.

6: Trim the rear of the canvas carefully with a knife or scissors so there is 10mm overlapping the rear scuttle lip.

7: Get some contact adhesive in a tube and read the instructions carefully because it works best if used correctly.

8: Apply glue to the rear lip of the scuttle and the 10mm overlap of canvas.

9: Wait for the glue to become tacky and then fold the canvas over the rear lip of the scuttle making sure it glues down smoothly because the 10mm rubber has to go over the top of it.

10: Release the clips or tape from the front edge of the scuttle to allow some slack in the canvas.

11. Glue the 10mm rubber over the top the canvas on the rear lip of the scuttle and allow time to dry.

12: Start trimming around the bonnet hinges to allow them free movement through the scuttle cover.

13: Trim the canvas at either end slightly overlapping the wings so any water there will drain off on to the wings.

14: Trim the canvas carefully so it overlaps the front lip of the scuttle carefully so it is at least twice the distance as the depth of the original front rubber if that makes sense.

15: Clean the inside of the original rubber and the front scuttle lip to the same standard as before.

16: Apply glue to the top of the canvas all the way along at the front lip in a strip wide enough to fold into the rubber.

17: Apply glue to the inside of the rubber only. Try not to get the glue on to the underside of the canvas here because the idea is to glue it to the rubber and not to the steel lip of the scuttle.

18: Install the rubber keeping the canvas inside it and press down firmly trying to keep some tension so the canvas is not too saggy when finished.

19: Cut some offcuts about 60mm wide of canvas to use as reinforcement around the the hinges.

20: For the windscreen washer tubing I used silicon tubing which has an outside diameter that is a perfect fit for repair tent eyelits.

21: Allow plenty of slack in the tubing to allow for movement of the scuttle when it is folded out of the way and when the bonnet is open.

22: Cut holes in the canvas for the eyelits in appropriate places to allow the tubing to run to the windscreen washers.

This is my first attempt at this and is very successful after about two months; letting in very little water. I still have to devise a way to drain water away from the top of the canvas and at the moment am thinking of using a third eyelit with tubing glued into it that then runs into one of the holes where cables run to the side repeaters in one of the wings. I do appreciate that a fibreglass or perspex could look good but this way the canvas can be folded back and access to the battery, heater fan and fuse box can be gained without having to take anything apart. I have my electronic ignition under the canvas and it remains bone dry. The only downside is that water can still get down around the hinge area but I don't see a way that can be avoided. I hope this helps.

Regards

Phil

glad its working for you , id want something thats looks oem ish

Then fibreglass would be briliant especially if it was black, had a part number in it,lips to overlap the wings and was moulded to look exactly like the original and covering the whole of the scuttle with seals around the bonnet hinges that actually are in contact with them giving a better water seal. Drains and washer tubes could be added easily.

Regards

Phil

dont think sealing the hinges would be something thats possible , get it wrong and its just going to yank the cover off as you open the bonnet

the mk2 golfs have a similar ish set up that the tray runs almost to the end and the water runs out the factory drains

Never use the blower and weld a plate over the grill ...

A new VW one would be best for me, I've never had a good enough one to make a mould with though, and then it's a question of finding someone with a vacuum former to make a handful of them for peanuts.

VWHeritage can get you an oem one for £45 delivered

When I mentioned sealing the hinges, I meant to try and get the scuttle cover as close as possible to the hinges to minimise water getting past. My cover drags slightly on the hinges but does not drag it off. The difficult side is the nearside hinge which has the earth strap on it where the cover clearance has to be a bit wider. All due respect to VW Heritage because they have been brilliant with parts I have needed (they have told me specific Polo catalogues are coming out) but £ 45 for a flimsy piece of plastic seems excessive but if it's exact OEM that's needed then that is the only option.

Regards

Phil

When I mentioned sealing the hinges, I meant to try and get the scuttle cover as close as possible to the hinges to minimise water getting past. My cover drags slightly on the hinges but does not drag it off. The difficult side is the nearside hinge which has the earth strap on it where the cover clearance has to be a bit wider. All due respect to VW Heritage because they have been brilliant with parts I have needed (they have told me specific Polo catalogues are coming out) but £ 45 for a flimsy piece of plastic seems excessive but if it's exact OEM that's needed then that is the only option.

Regards

Phil

its imported from germany and is from the deisel polo so it has foam sound deadening on the underside apparently

According to VAGCAT the diesel cover was more expensive than the normal cover. 33Euros Vs 15Euros. Don't know when those prices where last changed but the one from VWH is 63Euros!

The OE cover is fine letting water in, thats why theres a drain tube in front of the heater matrix?

Also, heater inlet needs a decent air supply, not being suffocated trapped in a space.

Youd also need to make the water run off somewhere which sits on top of it (under the bonnet slits)

Need to consider fitment around hinges, and it not getting stuck in the wipers etc

Even the standard scuttle cover let loads of water in on my car. I havn't noticed any change in air flow from the heater. There are holes where the side repeater wiring goes into the wings and a hole in at least one side where the wiring loom passes through the scuttle bulkhead on the nearside which must allow a certain amount of air in. The downside for me is that it is probably sucking in more blowby fumes from the engine compartment because my engine is getting ancient now and in need of my new one.

Regards

Phil

What do you mean it 'lets loads in on your car' ? As in, into the cabin? Or just the area where the heater matrix is?

Sorry there overstated. Water into the scuttle area which I want to avoid because I have extra electronics in there I want to protect.

Regards

Phil

We need to get onto SWG they do the full length for the corrado

trouble is theyd charge more than the average mk2 is worth

We need to get onto SWG they do the full length for the corrado

I've emailed them[emoji106]