i have another mk2f which was my first car but recently died of death on me so i have stripped for parts etc most of it has gone and now i want to start my idea of making it to a trailer to tow with our camper van.

i could do with some help and advise on this on what i need to do and how to go about doing this.

i know i need tools as in welder grinder and sheet steel etc but any help would be a bonus! on were to get materials from and the best way of going about it

thank you!

For a start, remove the rear spoiler and pull it backwards. It'll be far more aerodynamic that way. I realise this completely ruins the asthetics in every way possible.

most towns will have a steel supplier or you can order online

imagine you would want box or angle section , expect theres some online how to's

Aim to cut the body where there is most strength like there is a cross member under the front seats and in front of the B pillars. Support the inside of the shell by welding in some temporary steel so it doesn't collapse when you cut it up. The longer the distance from the trailer wheels to the tow ball will make it easier to reverse. Look at using either the handbrake or hydraulic brakes as over riders. Another set of brakes never goes amiss. Tow bar height is 450 mm usually so a Z shaped draw bar may be necessary. Try cutting with a reciprocating saw. It puts less heat into the metal. Otherwise use a cutting wheel in an angle grinder. There are usually small steel fabricators around that sell offcuts of sheet steel and structural steel. Often they will allow you to go through their skip to find what you need for cash. It means they are not paying to throw it away. A MIG welder up to a minimum of 120 amps is needed for the structural steel and you can turn it down for the sheet metal. I hope this helps.

Regards

Phil

When joining your new steelwork to the existing metal, try to avoid square ends, which will set up stress points. Instead, taper your new steel, clamp it to the existing stuff so as to form a face joint (as opposed to a butt joint) and 'step weld' - about 30 mm of weld, then 60 - 70 mm space and another 30 mm of weld etc.

Again, running a continuous weld will tend to set up a stress zone, due to a flexible area suddenly joining a more rigid area. - The taper will also spread the load better.

As Phil says, if you can find a local plating shop, that is a good source of (scrap) supply - you might even be able to talk 'em into folding any sections for you.

Regards

Roughly speaking, this is how mine was done. It's as rough as arseholes, but it's strong. You've just got to be in the mindset that you're towing the axle and the rest of it just needs to stay stable. Don't just blast a bit of angle iron onto the floor and call it a straight drawbar, it might last, it might not.

I've not really changed much on it, except I reinstated the handbrake cable and use braked hitch with it - works well. It's a it's a bit rustier now and it's got a tailgate on.

Looks like a good job.

The camera lies, everything I took a picture of with that camera looks awesome. You wouldn't guess from the pictures that the tow car was as rotten as an old pear :(

I'm sitting here thinking what i'd do, of course, and then it occurred to me - i happen to have a spare MK2 Coupe shell laying around...

Edited 20 December, 201510 yr by MikeyMK

You lot are legends thank u! I doing it with my first car and though it would look ace to tow along with my t25 camper thinking solar panels on roof etc to power van and under floor storage thanks again man massive help! X

Just put the panels in the back window, that way they stay safe. Optimum angle too. Might need some beefier boot struts, but that's not hard.

quick update in this she has come back to me and now the rear lights are wired to the 7 pin plug and working well on the back of the camper,

Next step is to kit the inside out and paint it or wrap it