I bought a 97 plate 6N that you couldnt engage the starter on. The key just wouldnt turn far enough. Ignition and everything lights up.

I had it all apart and the plastic bit that holds the wires and connectors seemed to be a bit worn where the metal bar from the end of the key barrel goes into it. I mixed up some epoxy resin and and put a small amount into the plastic recess to take up the slack. Offered the two parts together so the bar pushed its shape into the resin. Took the plug off until the resin had cured properly, trimmed the excess, lubed with a small amount of silicone grease and put it all together. It worked fine for about a year, until yesterday. Doing the same again and not turning far enough to engage the starter.

Has anyone else had or heard of this problem and whats the best way to go about sorting it out ? I'm not going to bugger about with Araldite again.

I've thought about fitting a push button starter to activate the starter motor as this seems like the easiest, most cost effective route. Has anyone else done this ?

Any other suggestions ?

The door key doesnt match the ignition key which is the original. I've thought about getting a new key set, locks , barrel etc. But apart from the cost, I found getting the stearing wheel boss off the column virtually impossible without the right puller, which I dont have and dont know where to get.

Also, does the key have to be matched with the ECU ?

I dont think I can get the plastic plug off the end of the key barrell without removing everything off the column. So, unless I can source a puller like the one they show in the Haynes manual, replacing the plug isnt an option. I would rather do this than use a push button start. But it seems to be the only option at the moment,

unless anyone has another suggestion ?

Thanks in advance :)

Quick update.

I tried the connecting of two wires under the bonnet that the AA man did to get it going once. This didnt work so got me thinking that it wasnt the back of the key barrell.

The car is an automatic and after moving the selector back and forth and pressing the brake quite hard, it started. Doh :/

If you get a new ignition switch/key you can remove the immobiliser transponder chip from your old key and put it into the replacement key, then all will be OK otherwise you'll need to get the new key chip coded to your immob unit/ecu

You do know that there is an inhibitor switch on the gear selector to prevent it starting whilst in gear, don't you?

Regards

You do know that there is an inhibitor switch on the gear selector to prevent it starting whilst in gear, don't you?

Regards

I knew there was something like that, but it was in the Park position which is what caused the confusion. I think its lack of use because its been off road for a while. But even after pulling it all the way back and then back to the Park position, it still didnt want to know. I had to do it a couple of times to get it to start.

Thanks for the replies.

You should only be able to start it with the lever in park or Neutral if its in any other position it inhibits the starter motor☺

I was moving the car about today while working on it and I guess the inhibitor switch must be sticking. The selector was in P and nothing. Moved it back and forth, back into P and still nothing. I did it a couple more times and it started.

Where is the inhibitor switch and associated bits that might be sticking ?

The switch pack on the gearbox provides an earth for the "inhibitor relay" & that's mounted above the relay plate by the fusebox (it might have a # 53 on it )

This gives a location of the electrical bits on the gearbox 6N Autobox elect comps & adjustments.doc and there is an adjustment procedure for the switch pack at the end of the document

I was moving the car about today while working on it and I guess the inhibitor switch must be sticking. The selector was in P and nothing. Moved it back and forth, back into P and still nothing. I did it a couple more times and it started.

Where is the inhibitor switch and associated bits that might be sticking ?

Sometimes when the inhibitors are playing up, they'll still start pretty regularly in N.

Thanks for your replies gents.

Have a good Christmas...

Having a look at it today I think the problem is that the button on the side of the selector is ticking in. It will come out eventually, just far enough to get hold of it and pull it the rest of the way.

I think the remedy would be to squirt some lube in there. Maybe silicone dry lube ? My only concern is that there may be some wiring in there that could short if a lube is applied.

The other option would be to take it apart and clean it, but the top of the selector seems impossible to take apart ? Is it ? and are there any wires in there ? or does it have a cable ? in which case WD40 would be the thing to free it up.

Looking at the diagrams the button is mechanical, there is a switch further down the lever incorporated in the lever lock solenoid, so you'd be OK spraying the button with anything, you can remove the handle from the lever, there is a small screw holding it onto the selector lever.

6N Auto Selector Lever.doc

Thanks Nige, thats most helpful. Much appreciated.