I'm currently running TA coilovers and are finding the ride a bit harsh, I mostly drive back roads and it's becoming a bit of a pain, I was wondering if there is and Springs available that are a bit softer?

Rally Design sell coilover springs. Just measure what diameter you need and then you'll have a wide choice of lengths and spring rates available.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=465_1153

Rally Design sell coilover springs. Just measure what diameter you need and then you'll have a wide choice of lengths and spring rates available.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=465_1153

Any suggestions for the spring rates?

I've got 180 on the back of mine and 220 on the front I think. But I'm on GAZ coilovers not TA technix.

But for me the front is maybe a little on the soft side. But I'd rather that than too hard.

There is a nice tread on clubg40 on spring rates

There is a nice tread on clubg40 on spring rates

Could you post a link?

U think it's to soft that's mad iv just up ratted mine again from 350 to 600 !!

Edited 29 December, 201510 yr by DanBlyth

U think it's to soft that's mad iv just up ratted mine again from 350 to 600 !!

Surly you're suspension doesn't move with rates like that ?

the KW fronts are circa 285lb/in (50nm 140 mm long) and the rears are 170lb/in. (30 NM 200 mm long)

https://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8835.0

600 lb springs on a Polo is fine, if the weight is about twice the factory weight

Edited 29 December, 201510 yr by G40NUT

Rear suspension doesn't move but that's how I want it

600lb springs in a Polo...hope you've stitch welded the shell

I bought front springs for mine from Demon Tweeks. It's transformed the car, I wish I'd done it years ago.

I'm running 220lb 8-inch springs at the moment, from 275lb 7-inch ones before. Obviously you have to adjust the platforms afterwards.

Depends what you're using the car for.

I ran 200/200 and was a bit stiff on the road but woukdnt be anywhere near stuff enough for track, really lacked support in transient stuff like quick left right corners etc.

Have you got good wheel clearance and at a good ride height or are you limited?

Rear suspension doesn't move but that's how I want it

Why not take the spring out, and weld in a steel rod?

Depends what you're using the car for.

I ran 200/200 and was a bit stiff on the road but woukdnt be anywhere near stuff enough for track, really lacked support in transient stuff like quick left right corners etc.

Have you got good wheel clearance and at a good ride height or are you limited?

got plenty of clearance, I just want a nice responsive drive that isn't solid, it feels like its shaking the car to bits atm, I'm planning on buying arb blocks to help body roll after I swap to softer springs

I'm limited on arch space running 9j steelies but 600 are fine not to bad !!

The ride frequencies that a 600lb rear Spring will give is like horrifically high, like race car levels, you've just mashed stiff springs on to allow wheels which don't really fit to not rub, and in your head you know it's likely a heap of shit but you tollerate it because you want them wheels on

So would 225 front and 180 rear be alright, could someone also explain how the length of the Spring affects the ride, should I just get the same length ?

225/180 is still quite stiff really, what coilovers are they? like dampers.

and length is important to determine ride heights, preload on the springs etc.

a stiff spring will compress less from its free length under the weight of the car in comparison to a soft one, so generally stiffer you have to go shorter to maintain a ride height, but then you have the issue that at full rebound (ie a wheel of the ground) the spring will be loose (part of the reason why 'helper' springs are fitted by companies - almost like they think about it)

so, I have some weight figures and stuff, so if you know your current spring rates and free lengths I could calculate what lengths you'd need for your new ones, although I think the TA springs may not be too far away from what you're suggesting anyway.

maybe worth checking if your ride is rubbish that youre not really close to, or sat on the bump stops, as this really wont help matters, theres a lot of variables, and everyones setup and demands are different, hence why its hard to properly advise on what people need.

you also need to think about how changing the spring balance front to rear will effect your handling balance etc. and a lot of comfort issues can come from poorly picked spring ratios front to rear in terms of pitch balance, so the car never really 'settles' and kind of ends up sesawing front to rear (can only be slight but still isnt great)

225/180 is still quite stiff really, what coilovers are they? like dampers.

and length is important to determine ride heights, preload on the springs etc.

a stiff spring will compress less from its free length under the weight of the car in comparison to a soft one, so generally stiffer you have to go shorter to maintain a ride height, but then you have the issue that at full rebound (ie a wheel of the ground) the spring will be loose (part of the reason why 'helper' springs are fitted by companies - almost like they think about it)

so, I have some weight figures and stuff, so if you know your current spring rates and free lengths I could calculate what lengths you'd need for your new ones, although I think the TA springs may not be too far away from what you're suggesting anyway.

maybe worth checking if your ride is rubbish that youre not really close to, or sat on the bump stops, as this really wont help matters, theres a lot of variables, and everyones setup and demands are different, hence why its hard to properly advise on what people need.

you also need to think about how changing the spring balance front to rear will effect your handling balance etc. and a lot of comfort issues can come from poorly picked spring ratios front to rear in terms of pitch balance, so the car never really 'settles' and kind of ends up sesawing front to rear (can only be slight but still isnt great)

There just the normal ta coilovers, I have no idea of the rates but I know there pretty stiff, I have them wound almost as high as the go at the minute, I understand if I want to go low I need the stiff Springs to stop it bottoming out, but at the minute I just want a nice smooth (ish) driving car

When your car is jacked up are your helper springs still fully compressed or not? (As you've said its wound up high they're could be a lot of preload on the Spring which won't be helping matters)

Also stiff does NOT mean uncomfortable. It's a LOT about damping, to which a budget suspension kit id imagine they're used a generic carry over setting, hardly properly tuned which won't be helping either.

With more expensive kits you're often paying for the development and thought gone into them, not the actual unit cost.

People say KWs ride lovely and they're similar if not stiffer than TAs Spring wise - go figure

With more expensive kits you're often paying for the development and thought gone into them, not the actual unit cost.

People say KWs ride lovely and they're similar if not stiffer than TAs Spring wise - go figure

It is all about matching the dampers and springs.

I would advice against upping the spring rates much above what the came with from the factory, as the dampers will not be able to control the spring properly

Tuning dampers on a road car is a bit of a black art tbh!

What's good on the road may also prove to be useless on track. I had my GAZ coilovers set pretty soft for the road which was fine. But on track it was under-damped. I think I'd need a good bit of track time to get it spot on.