Hi all,

I'm not sure how many of you have looked at my build thread, but while trying to remove the wishbones and subframe the other day I encountered a problem. The last 2 bolts I was removing just span, looking at partsbase.org I see that the bolt goes into a captive nut. So I am guessing that both nuts have broken free and are spinning helplessly!

This one of the bolts in question

A slightly further out view in which you can see the little mount weld under the chassis rail...

What I need to know is....am I able to get at the nut through the chassis rails? There isn't much room in the bay, but poking around with my hand there is a hole directly above it, which i hope goes all the way through.

Or am I going to have to go to the trouble of removing the little mount and re-welding it in place? (which i don't really want to do as the paint work under there is in very good condition...but if needs must!)

I wanted to ask this question before I start removing the engine to gain access to the holes and to avoid disappointment. So anyone with a 6N or 6N2 that currently doesn't have an engine in, could you please have a quick look, a picture if possible? or if you have removed a subframe before and know whats there?

Thank you in advance!

It is a cut and weld job :( 6N1 6N2 front subframe.doc scroll down to the description for item #5

Thanks for the help...even if it's not the news I was hoping for.

Saves me spending the rest of the day removing the engine, abs, air con, power steering etc only to be disappointed and probably hit the car with whatever tool I have in my hand at the time. Guess I will still have to do all that in order to get proper access to the mount, but at least I know.

May just cut the head off the bolt now, so I can get the subframe out and clear more space to see if the work can be done without removing the engine.....can always get new bolts!

I seem to recall in someones build thread, there was a write up about this problem, they cut an access hole in the chassis leg, to get at the captive nut, then welded a new top hat section over a new nut and welded the access opening back.

(7) 6N0803127B retainer bracket / subframe left /

(7) 6N0803128B retainer bracket / subframe right /

(20) 6N0804055C retainer bracket / subframe left /

(20) 6N0804056C retainer bracket / subframe right /

#7 25 uros

#20 12 uros

my #20's came out fine, it's the #7's that just span. They didn't even give any real resistance, i was sat there for a couple of minutes 'undoing' them before it dawned on me what was going on.

I like the idea of cutting a little 'window' to access the captive nut, if I was to cut a nice trapezoidal piece out of the side of the mount. I'd be able to get at the side of the nut, undo it and weld at least 180^o around a fresh nut and then just close up the 'window'. Less grinding, prep, painting and no need to lift the engine.

I've been outside the last hour looking around the car and thinking. There are about 6-ish spot welds holding the mount onto the car, but access to them would still require the engine being lifted out...but obviously getting the mount back exactly in the right place would be important.

If the 'window' idea doesn't work, I can still lift the engine.