Hello,

I need some help with my Ibiza power steering that doesn't seem to work well.

The problem:

- Steering is harder than normal and it has variations, it's hard and then lighter.

- It seems to get worse when hot but sometimes it is totally aleatory.

- From times to times the steering gets lighter and pleasing to drive, I believe this is the normal beaviour.

So far I did:

- Bleed the system multiple times.

- Replaced the G250 sensor.

- Changed the fluid multiple times (OEM G004000M2),

- Changed positive battery cable.

- Changed main connector into the pump (terminal 30).

- Changed fusebox above the battery.

- Changed hydraulic lines from the pump to the rack.

- Changed the non return valve.

- Changed battery twice

- Changed the cable from the steering sensor from the pump to the rack.

Some facts:

- Burned two pumps in the last year (January / July).

- Second pumo had the same behaviour and I'm almost sure the first one too. I thought it was normal but now I know it's not.

- Checked alternator, it varies from 13,5V when fully warm to 14,3V when cold.

- Earth wires seem fine.

- There are no errors with VCDS.

- Battery seems fine (VARTA 60Ah) with only 6 months, 12,65V after 3 hours turned off. I believe it's enough to a 1.4 16V engine.

- The pump coding is the correct one.

- I had a frontal accident two years ago at the pump location, but I don't know if that affected the steering because I only had the car for 1 week at the time, at the time I don't know if there was a difference I owned it for a short time before that. Fisrt pump burned 8000KM after this event, second pump 3000KM after the second pump was fitted. I'm trying to find pics It was like this one: http://s10.postimg.org/3tr1rmi8p/image.png http://s12.postimg.o.../te9yta8e_1.jpg At the time nothing related to the steering was replaced.

- At least one time there was an impact on the wheel, I touched a sidewalk with the front whell at something like 30KM/H or 20MPH (the other wheel). No apparent damage was done at the time. September 2014. Steering is not misaligned, it goes OK in straight line. http://s10.postimg.org/k6x95ju8p/image.png

- Don't know if this is relevant but the car also had a new starter 2 years ago.

- Belt tensioner and alternator belt were replaced 1,5 years ago.

- Don't know if this is important but first pump had cracks on the reservoir, probably as result of the accident.http://s7.postimg.or...0118_140514.jpg

- Brake discs were warped and were replaced last July, it caused the steering to shake. Could it cause damage?

- When I was bleeding the system with and front whells raised and engine turned off I notice steering gets progressible harder after a few locks to lock. It is also harder before reaching full lock. Normal? Rack? Something else?

Thank You very much.

dm222

Welcome to the Forum.

It would help if you could tell us what year your car was made in.

One thing that hydraulic systems do not like, is dirt in the system - I know that you have changed the fluid many times, but I am wondering if there is some sort of obstruction somewhere in the system - the fact that you have got through two pumps in that time makes me wonder about this.

Having said that, the only thing that you have not changed is the steering unit (rack) so I wonder if that is where the problem lays?

Regards

From what I've read, there's two sorts of G250 sensor - did you get the right one?

From what I've read, there's two sorts of G250 sensor - did you get the right one?

Thank you for you answer.

Yes, there is only one as the car is from 2008. And the sensor is working I saw that with VCDS the param changes as I turn the steering.

Welcome to the Forum.

It would help if you could tell us what year your car was made in.

One thing that hydraulic systems do not like, is dirt in the system - I know that you have changed the fluid many times, but I am wondering if there is some sort of obstruction somewhere in the system - the fact that you have got through two pumps in that time makes me wonder about this.

Having said that, the only thing that you have not changed is the steering unit (rack) so I wonder if that is where the problem lays?

Regards

Thank you for your answer, the car is from 2008, it is the new model 6J, which shares platform with polo 6R, there are two things that point to the rack, I don't know if they are normal or are an indicator of the problem, those are:

- When I was bleeding the system with front wheels raised and engine turned off I notice steering gets progressible harder after like 10 locks to locks. I don't know if this is rack related or something else causing this.

- I also notice it is also harder maybe 10 cm before reaching full lock in both sides, although I don't notice this while driving.

Could also problems in the suspension or control arms or something like that cause this symptoms?

Regarding the dirt in the system, the pump is new, the hydraulic lines are new, only if dirt got inside the original pump http://s7.postimg.org/60magf6jv/IMG_20150118_140514.jpg

Edited 7 January, 201610 yr by dm222

Sounds to me like a pressure build up, this could be caused by a crushed pipe or small partial blockage, where the fluid can not pass through fully, so it acts like a dam, until the pressure is so great the pump can push any more fluid causing it to burn out.

My guess is the more left-right movements you make in a short space of time and the steering gets hard, but when turning only occasionally it's unnoticeable?

I would check the rack and the lines on it for any damage, seeing as you have replaced most other components.

Sounds to me like a pressure build up, this could be caused by a crushed pipe or small partial blockage, where the fluid can not pass through fully, so it acts like a dam, until the pressure is so great the pump can push any more fluid causing it to burn out.

My guess is the more left-right movements you make in a short space of time and the steering gets hard, but when turning only occasionally it's unnoticeable?

I would check the rack and the lines on it for any damage, seeing as you have replaced most other components.

There are two situations here I mentioned.

While driving it is always noticeable.

- Sometimes is lighter but still harder than normal at the beginning and it gets progressbly harder, most times it is even more noticeable after like 20 min driving.

- Sometimes is harder from the beginning.

With the front wheels raised and engine turned off while I was bleeding the system I noticed that steering progressbly gets harder the more I turn the steering from lock to lock. And it is harder at the corners than in the middle, 10cm before full lock in both sides even at the first turn

This video was after driving for ~5 minutes:

Edited 7 January, 201610 yr by dm222

There is one more cm one side than the other here.

Would this make a difference?

My solution is just get a new car mate. it sounds like yours is gone lol jokes. Sounds like a small blockage to me.

As for the car height difference that won't have nothing to do with it

As for the car height difference that won't have nothing to do with it

My solution is just get a new car mate. it sounds like yours is gone lol jokes. Sounds like a small blockage to me.

As for the car height difference that won't have nothing to do with it

As for the car height difference that won't have nothing to do with it

Wouldnt that go away after a while? I trying to solve this problem for a year :S

Is there any product to solve this?

Regarding still the electrical approach, one question, could a bad earth in another component affect the steering. For example a bad earth in the radiator fan, or a windshield washer pump, something like that?

As the car had an accident where that components cables and the pump itself are located, the pumo was checked but I doubt they checked the others, could that be the cause? Even if the component is not working at the time?

Edited 8 January, 201610 yr by dm222

It's probably worth getting under and having a good check yourself, have a friend help if needed to move the steering around while you are under the car, I don't know much about these systems personally.

on the other hand, you could just chuck a load of parts at it and hope the problem goes away.

With the car on axle stands:

I would suggest first disconnecting the track rods at the ball joints.

Then try the steering lock-to-lock.

If the resistance problem has then 'gone away', try turning each road wheel about its steering pivot - do this to each side in turn, if one side has more resistance than the other, then that is the suspect side.

If the problem is still there, you would need to look at the steering unit and or the hydraulics.

Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the steering unit, cover the unit fluid connections with something like nylon mesh (ladies tights) held in place with jubilee clips or cable ties - the object being to allow the free flow of any fluid from within the unit, but at the same time, keeping out any contaminants.

Try the steering wheel again - if the resistance problem is still there, the steering unit is probably to blame.

Not being familiar with your model, do you know if there is a torque sensor in the steering column? If there is, it would pay to check the adjustment of it before finally condemning the steering unit.

Regards

Thanks.

My model is exacly like yours regards the steering unit, that's why I asked here. The sensor was already replaced.

Did anyone ever heard of this test?

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk5/running_gear_axles_steering/steering/motor/pump_unit/checking_delivery_pressure_of_motor/pump_unit/

Edited 9 January, 201610 yr by dm222

I asked at the electrical section but

Does anyone know if it's ok to use a silver calcium battery in a car that came with a lead acid battery?

Anyone had problems with it?

I have a silver calcium now, could that be the problem?

See your other post in the electrical section

Can tires more worn in the middle cause steering problems?

Also my pump is bent, that wouldn't be a problem would it?

Tyres worn more in the centre of the tread are often suffering from over inflation - Checking tyre pressures should always be the first port of call with any steering problem.

I'm afraid that I don't know what you mean when you say that, "The pump is bent"

The other bit that I am struggling with, is that if your system is purely hydraulic, why are we talking about electrics?

Regards

Tyres worn more in the centre of the tread are often suffering from over inflation - Checking tyre pressures should always be the first port of call with any steering problem.

I'm afraid that I don't know what you mean when you say that, "The pump is bent"

The other bit that I am struggling with, is that if your system is purely hydraulic, why are we talking about electrics?

Regards

The bracket that supports the pump is bent, so it's not in a straight line

From 2000 it's electro-hydraulic (polo ibiza fabia)

Edited 24 January, 201610 yr by dm222

Forget electrical problems (until you have proven there are no mechanical problems).

Go back to Caretakers post #12

Disconnect the track rods, raise the wheels and test again.

Can you now repeatedly move the wheels easily through the full arc?

Does the rack still become stiff after multiple cycles?

Do the inner track rod joints move smoothly?

Post back with results.

Forget electrical problems (until you have proven there are no mechanical problems).

Go back to Caretakers post #12

Disconnect the track rods, raise the wheels and test again.

Can you now repeatedly move the wheels easily through the full arc?

Does the rack still become stiff after multiple cycles?

Do the inner track rod joints move smoothly?

Post back with results.

The only reason I was checking electrical problems is because sometimes the steering gets light as feether.

Like one day is harder and then the next day is good. Although when it is lighter it gets harder after a few miles.

But I will leave it at another garage to check and will mention that test, maybe they find this time.

Edited 25 January, 201610 yr by dm222

Ah sorry, I thought you were looking at the problem yourself.

Good luck with the garage - hope its sorted soon - let us know how you get on.

Ah sorry, I thought you were looking at the problem yourself.

Good luck with the garage - hope its sorted soon - let us know how you get on.

yes, I'm looking myself but that is too complicated for me.

I may have made it sound too complicated.

To isolate the problem at before or after the rack really is very simple.

1. Disconnect one track rod end
2. Raise one wheel off ground
3. Try moving that wheel through its steering arc.

Do this for both sides, if both wheels move freely – you know the problem is in the rack/pump.

Let us know the results so we can assist further.

Good luck.

yes, I'm looking myself but that is too complicated for me.

Hi

Is it possible for you to put up some pictures of the power steering pump, especially any electrical connector going to it.

yes, I'm looking myself but that is too complicated for me.

Hi

Is it possible for you to put up some pictures of the power steering pump, especially any electrical connector going to it.

Hi,

It is in the first page. Anything in particular your looking for?