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TRACTION! = NONE! Mk3 GT

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Right had my engine completely rebuilt 2 and a bit weeks ago, and I mean completely rebuilt as in the only bits not replaced were the actual block and head castings, so is as fresh in terms of power as it will ever be.

Also had an 8p box fitted.

I have also replaced every single suspension component in recent times as well, with all completely standard parts so its sort of moon buggy height still.

I run on 185/60 r13 tyres which are massive for a Polo! (7"+ wide)!!

But I am having serious problems with massive wheel spin during my "Spirited driving" especially cornering, even just simple pulling away on a incline! My Dad even drove it as he would drive his instructor car and couldn't stop in spinning up on an incline and also actually stopping as lock ups occur regularly at any speed whether I'm slowing from 60...ish to 15/20-40 or 30 to 10-stop it'll most likely lock a wheel.

I don't know whether this is because of my slightly higher ride height since I've changed all the springs a shocks causing an odd weight transfer or whether the 6mm I've got left on my tyres isnt enough to contain the beast under the bonnet XD!

But it's beginning to become a royal pain in the @ss..

None of the above was a problem before my gearbox change, and suspension and engine rebuild... So any clues to what I could do to solve this apart from modifying it and being a bit more gentle with it (I bought a GT for a reason and live/work down national speed limit roads).

Cheers :D

Edited by xumado

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  • I know about the arb blocks I use them on my bready van and I hate them with a passion, made everything a whole lot worse. I'm not modifying my GT so won't consider them but thanks for the suggestion.

  • has to be tyres , their pressure or the angle they sit on the road i run michelins all round on mine and recently had to run a no name on one front for a while , could noticebly lock or spin it up c

doubt its the insaine power , normal folk were buying and driving these daily back when they were new

id look at the tyre brand and pressures , and the tracking

My first port of call would be to look at the tyres themselves, make and pressure mainly.

My 175/60/13 Yokos handle double a GTs power in the dry so I don't think power is your issue.

Also what have you done to the suspension and have you had the tracking checked?

isnt running any camber mods is it ?

  • Author

isnt running any camber mods is it ?

No mods whatsoever mate

My first port of call would be to look at the tyres themselves, make and pressure mainly.

My 175/60/13 Yokos handle double a GTs power in the dry so I don't think power is your issue.

Also what have you done to the suspension and have you had the tracking checked?

All the suspension including bushes + steering components bar the rack were changed and yes i had tracking done. I use Firestones on the front and Nankang ditch finders on the rear. I usually have the pressures at 30 fronts and 28 rear which is checked regularly.

I was joking about power as I'm sure thats not an issue XD

30psi on the front is maybe a tad much but shouldn't be causing that much of an issue.

Aren't Firestones still classed as a 'budget' tyre?

Had your wheel alignment checked since the work?

Firestones are alright, I had them on the Toyota when I had it and it was a car famed for shit handling.

  • Author

Firestones are a sort of half an half. Towards the budget end and soft as toffee I found. I'm dubious about this standard suspension, I do get a lot of body pitch when braking and accelerating, but none more than before I would say :/

has to be tyres , their pressure or the angle they sit on the road

i run michelins all round on mine and recently had to run a no name on one front for a while , could noticebly lock or spin it up compared to good tyres all round , also a couple of psi makes a differance so maybe drop em down to 24psi or so and road test and keep adding a bit more and see what happens

  • Author

I'll give it a go and see what happens. It'll either make it better or worse :) I thought 30 was low if I'm honest, but I'm used to buses at 100psi+

I run mine between 26 and 28 psi.

So have you had the alignment checked? If th wheels aren't pointing in the right direction, you're pissing in the ocean before you start.

  • Author

So have you had the alignment checked? If th wheels aren't pointing in the right direction, you're pissing in the ocean before you start.

Yep had full laser 4 wheel done

You have a wider, shorter contact patch from tyre to ground with a wider tyre and also a greater mass of rubber and wheel turning.

While a thinner tyre has a longer taller contact patch. 30psi in big tyres will probably give a balloon shape profile with a light Polo further reducing rubber contact.

You might also want to increase the caster angle - like splayed legs on a table - such as by using G-laderseite ARB blocks to pull the wheels forward in the wheel arch. Then as you accelerate and body weight shifts backwards as the nose lifts there's still weight on the tyres.

I have had a look at the G-laderseite for there ARB blocks but can't find them. Do they still make them?

As for wheel spinning, I had this when I had the original wheels and skinny tyres fitted, it was horrendous in the wet and any type of corner would make them squeal. Braking hard would lock both up in the dry and I never tried it in the wet, so much so that I wouldn't use it if it was wet.

I had a set of 15x7 wheels that no longer fitted on my 6n so figured I would bolt them up, the difference in traction was insane, literally transformed the car. The tyres on the front are budget branded I think wanli and the rears are half worn uniroyals. I struggle to spin them (not that I ever try) but even jumping across a road about in the wet is a simple procedure now. The car feels a lot more planted somehow also.

I did try some other wheels while I refurbed these and they where factory 6n 13" alloys and they had super budget tyres on them and they made the car almost unprovable and it felt really unsafe at any speed and had the same results as you describe above. Swapped back and it was great again.

  • Author

I know about the arb blocks I use them on my bready van and I hate them with a passion, made everything a whole lot worse. I'm not modifying my GT so won't consider them but thanks for the suggestion.

Anyways dropped my pressures down to 26ish and solved both issues with wheel spin and locking up :D

Yeah firestone is a mid range tyre, used to fit them to the British airways vehicles from Heathrow.

Always thought they were decent tyres but I suppose there are lots of different kinds and sizes affect the performance ratings a lot too.

Got a set of falkens on mine, only 155's and they can't even spin in the dry and barely at all in the wet. (Graded A wet grip and A for noise too)

I have had a look at the G-laderseite for there ARB blocks but can't find them. Do they still make them?

Never did for a 6N, but xumado was asking about his Mk2f GT.

ARB blocks made everything worse? I've only ever found they improved handling. In what way did they make things worse?

  • Author

ARB blocks made everything worse? I've only ever found they improved handling. In what way did they make things worse?

Tyre scrubbing went from a small amount on full lock to a horrendous amount on half lock. Steering became twitchy as all balls and I started getting dragged down every bit of road camber

The scrubbing will be due to your ride height and choice of tyres. I assume you had the tracking checked again after fitting them?

  • Author

The scrubbing will be due to your ride height and choice of tyres. I assume you had the tracking checked again after fitting them?

60/40 lowered and some lovely brand new nankangs and yea I have had the tracking done. I just live with it if I'm honest.

arb are the best thing ever ...must have other issues

This may be a silly question, but is it possible you fitted them backwards?

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