So it was time to replace rear brake drums and shoes on my mk2f gt after the squeaking was driving me mad..

I ordered a set of febi drums , bearing , springs with pagid shoes and break cleaner , grease and copper grease.

The rear drums were badly scorn with deap groves so glad I check and time for new parts.

Now after I fitted all the new parts I thought I take it for a run , when I pulled off the drive oh my it felt like the brakes locked up as if I had my foot on the brakes while driving I only got half way up the road 100 ft or so and I had to turn back. Once back on the drive I pulled hand brake and I almost pulled it off at least 4 notches higher than usual ..

I took drums off and thought I maybe I had not attached handbrake cable back on but I had so not sure what's going on with that ? As for the shoes that's puzzled me as when drums where on the wheel spins freely ? So why did the rears feel like they almost locked up ? The drums were hot upon removal .

Its obvious the shoes are binding on the drums but not sure why and I did adjust the brake adjuster wedge to the correct position ..

Edited 1 April, 201610 yr by 1vw2many

Anything to do with the bias valve at the back?

Bais valve ?

Bais valve ?

The load limiting valve on the passenger side of the rear beam

Oh yes that little sod , last time I looks these were about £50 , anyhow what we saying it needs re-setting or its failed ?

Edited 1 April, 201610 yr by 1vw2many

Maybe needs reset.
Did you bleed the brakes at all? As the valve needs to be fully open when you bleed the brakes.

When you bleed the rears, you're supposed to manually move the lever to the max weight on wheels position, that way it allows max pressure to the cylinders and gets all the air out of the system, if you bleed it with the axle hanging free, it restricts the pressure so making it difficult to get all the air out.

No bleeding as I did not replace the wheel cylinder ..

Ah! OK then, that only really leaves the adjuster wedge, jamming the shoes on ??

Well that's what I thought but you can adjust it without taking drum off with thin screw driver and wheel bolt hole , but I thought it best I just remove drum and make sure it was in the correct position and that would be at it highest point ?

Edited 1 April, 201610 yr by 1vw2many

Only other thing I can think of it that the wheel cylinders are not working properly and are stuck corroded maybe not retracting ?

Still not sure about handbrake though ??

Edited 2 April, 201610 yr by 1vw2many

Be careful when you check that the wheel cylinders are working - If the pedal is pressed with the drum off, you are likely to pop the wheel cylinder piston(s) out, getting brake fluid all over your new linings.

Rather than do that, use a couple of screwdrivers, one against each lining and attempt to lever the complete shoe assembly backwards and forwards, if they move, then the pistons are free in the cylinders.

With the drums back on,try slackening 'off' the brake cables at the HB lever, then allow the auto adjusters to take up the slack by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal, note how free the drums are to turn by hand and then adjust up the cables so that the brakes just start to bind, then slacken off the cables 'till the brakes are free again.

Regards

Hi ,

did you check that part?

http://aws-cf.caradisiac.com/prod/photos/1/9/7/1361197/4930553/big-493055323b.jpg?v=6

No as I got side tracked and noticed exhaust was in a bad state so as its sits the hole exhaust system is off .. Just searching new parts as we speak..

whole/hole exhaust system. Think the spellinh auto correction may have got it right from the tea strainer description.

Ha ha

Found the problem both rear wheel cylinders were rusted up so only one side of the brakes were working. So I replaced both cylinders along with the hard lines and flexes ..

Edited 13 April, 201610 yr by 1vw2many