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Faulty Fan, Temp Sensor or Thermostat? 6N2

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I've had this problem for a while now and have no idea.

My temp readout on the dash works when it wants to. It sometimes has a readout then suddenly drop to zero. Other times, no readout at all. I replaced the temp sensor, but this hasn't fixed the problem.

To add to this, my cooling fan stays on for about 10-15 mins after I have switched off the ignition. The thing is, this happens even when I don't run the engine. By that I mean I will literally just turn the ignition so that the radio and electrics come on, turn the car off. Then the fan starts running... so it can't be because the engine is hot. :/

I expect that there all connected and there might be a common fix for all the faults.

Any insight would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Jeeves

Also, I know its the wrong section but my car whines through 3,4th and 5th when I let off the accelerator (as it decelerates), thinking the gearbox is shot, or are there any other things I might be overlooking?

Edited by Jeeves

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..... I replaced the temp sensor

Hi

Was this the 4-pin sensor ?

The fuse links (they look like little metal plates) can crack and cause all sorts of problems similar to what you are describing.

Unfortunately, these cracks are not always visible with the links in place, but sometimes when you remove them, they fall in half in your hand.

These are (fairly) precision fuses, so don't be tempted to make your own.

With regards to the whine on over-run, this might be due to loss of pre-loading on GB the bearings, but it would be a good idea to check the gear oil level before you drive it much further.

Regards

  • Author

..... I replaced the temp sensor

Hi

Was this the 4-pin sensor ?

Yep the four pin one... It was green.

The fuse links (they look like little metal plates) can crack and cause all sorts of problems similar to what you are describing.

Unfortunately, these cracks are not always visible with the links in place, but sometimes when you remove them, they fall in half in your hand.

These are (fairly) precision fuses, so don't be tempted to make your own.

With regards to the whine on over-run, this might be due to loss of pre-loading on GB the bearings, but it would be a good idea to check the gear oil level before you drive it much further.

Regards

Ahh righteoo. Where can I find these fuse links and how do I check them?

As for the GB oil. Is there a way to easily access the draining point?

Got jacks and stands so getting underneath isn't a problem.

The fuses are on top of the battery, you have to unbolt them to properly check

Gearbox drain plug is on the bottom of the diff casing, below the passenger side driveshaft, the fill level port is on the front face of the box near the reverse light switch, both are 17mm hex key,

  • Author

The fuses are on top of the battery, you have to unbolt them to properly check

Gearbox drain plug is on the bottom of the diff casing, below the passenger side driveshaft, the fill level port is on the front face of the box near the reverse light switch, both are 17mm hex key,

Sweet, I'll have a look.

Cheers

  • Author

So... I checked the fuse links. All fine. :s

Are there any other things that I can check that would be causing this?

Cheers

  • Author

Just noticed in slot 4 I have a 30A fuse. Would this cause much of a problem? Comparing it to the diagram on the forum, should it be a 50A?

If you have a 30amp fuse where a 50amp fuse should be fitted, and it doesn't keep 'blowing', then I wouldn't worry too much about it - A 50amp where a 30amp should be would be potentially dangerous.

Unless the problem with the temperature gauge and the fan problem started at the same time, you could well have two separate problems here.

As you have already changed the temperature sender (four pin one), the gauge problem could well be down to either a poor connection to the actual gauge, between the gauge and the sender, or the gauge itself could be faulty.

You could try 'wiggling' a few wires in the area behind the dash and see if that makes any difference, otherwise you may be better off with a multimeter and check for continuity/high resistance.

Regards

  • 5 weeks later...

Have you changed the thermostat recently? I noticed water temperature fluctuations and was rectified with a simple thermostat and new coolant change.

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