My stage 2 is allready being a pain to fit 😂 Any advice on what my chances are with having a slightly deeper sump? I've got a 15mm engine raise but its still looking like its gonna be tight or not fit easy :(

My gearbox mount also sceems bent it wont bolt onto the diff housing easy?

My gearbox mount was a 'hammer fit' onto the diff casing. But once it was in place and bolted up it was fine.

For the frame itself you're best just to give it a go and see. They are a tight fit, which is the point if them. Just resist the urge to elongate any of the mounting holes!

I havn't got the file out just yet 😂 And I'm not gonna lol, in what order do you put your rear mount on? Normally id put the 2 13mms on then move the box back and forwards till the bigger bolts go in on the gearbox, not wanting to cross thread the little ones.

What sump do you have? Is it a 6n one, or something random which is somewhere between?

A 6n one is around 2" deeper, so a 15mm engine raise won't give you that back.

Have a look on my build thread I had to modify a deeper one.

And frame wise, make sure they little "nub" on your TCA is ground back so it's a flat surface for the frame to slide over.

There's a good guide on fitting the frames, possibly on Clubg40, but may have been on here.

Helps to slacken the drivers side ARB mount off where it goes through chassis leg

And frame wise, make sure they little "nub" on your TCA is ground back so it's a flat surface for the frame to slide over.

There's a good guide on fitting the frames, possibly on Clubg40, but may have been on here.

Helps to slacken the drivers side ARB mount off where it goes through chassis leg

Exactly was I was going to say.

With the gearbox mount I had the engine and 'box out the car so I fitted the mount to the 'box then once the subframe was in I fitted the engine in the car.

With the engine in the car I'd suggest fitting the mount onto the gearbox then bolting it to the car would be the best solution....but you need to fit the subframe first.

You can leave the mount bolted to the box and just undo the 2x M8 bolts which hold it to the body and the frame can slot between the gap... Well I could, but your engine may not be able to tip as much to give you that gap, apply common sense really. Can always bolt it on after the frames in anyway.

What sump do you have? Is it a 6n one, or something random which is somewhere between?

A 6n one is around 2" deeper, so a 15mm engine raise won't give you that back.

Have a look on my build thread I had to modify a deeper one.

And frame wise, make sure they little "nub" on your TCA is ground back so it's a flat surface for the frame to slide over.

There's a good guide on fitting the frames, possibly on Clubg40, but may have been on here.

Helps to slacken the drivers side ARB mount off where it goes through chassis leg

Engines a 96 golf abd engine with a slightly deeper sump then standard, engines pretty much a stroked aav

And not a chance! Thought i might get away with it but its not fitting atall, so 2 options modify sump or subframe thinking sump i have just bought some 3mm thick steel to make a turbo brace with but i have plenty left to make The new section of the sump with, is it too thick?