Alright everyone,

 

here's the problem. I spliced together the wires on my aftermarket stereo wiring harness to those on the OEM stereo to make a wiring harness / adapter.  plugged it in and it came on when i turned the key one notch. was pretty chuffed with my handy work until i started the engine and realised that the stereo had turned off and won't come on while the engine is running. has anyone had a similar issue installing an aftermarket stereo or have any advice for me to fix it? 

 

Cheers.

Edited 6 October, 20169 yr by kingtaco94

On the standard 6N1 early wiring the RED wire is the 12v Live constant supply, and the thinner of the BROWN/RED wire is the "S" contact 12v supply, it gives 12v any time the key is in the ignition, regardless of it being in the OFF or RUN positions, so I would make sure those are connected to your aftermarket radio supply wires

cheers for the info mate, i had another look at the wiring earlier and as far as i could tell both of those wires were attached to the appropriate connections, but i had the same problem. I'm gonna buy an adaptor and see if that sorts it. 

 

On 06/10/2016 at 14:23, nige8021 said:

On the standard 6N1 early wiring the RED wire is the 12v Live constant supply, and the thinner of the BROWN/RED wire is the "S" contact 12v supply, it gives 12v any time the key is in the ignition, regardless of it being in the OFF or RUN positions, so I would make sure those are connected to your aftermarket radio supply wires

right i have since tried an adaptor. and tried another headunit that did not require and adaptor. the factory wiring loom/harness went straight into the back of the new headunit and i still have the same problem. the radio is on when the key is cranked a notch, but goes off when i turn the engine on.  Does this mean that the red or red and brown wire is connected wrong somewhere behind the dash? 

OK that's looking more like the ignition switch "S" contact is failing

so is that going to need replacing? do you know a possible solution? 

 

 

Edited 13 October, 20169 yr by kingtaco94

OK you could chop the Brown/Red wire on pin 4 (Black plug) of the radio ( insulate the end of the wire going into the main loom) and run a new wire from Pin 4 (Black plug) to the heater blower fan switch, thick Black/Red wire as that is a 12v ignition on supply

ok cool, i will try that pronto. as always thanks for the help nige

could i use a scotch lock on the heater blower fan switch? and what size if possible?

Scotch-locks are not the best things but if that's all you have? then the Blue ones should fit around the fan supply wire

I only asked based on the assumption i would have to splice the fan supply wire. to power the radio and maintain power for the fans. am i right in thinking i'l need to splice the wire? if so what method would you recommend? 

Yes you will need to splice into the fan supply wire, you could use those "Scotch lock" devices, a Blue inline crimp or cut the wire and solder the new wire to the fan feed & cover it with heatshrink sleeving

fixed it. i had to route power to both the brown and brown/red wires. as i think it was the 12v constant supply that was faulty. It seems to be working now when the engine is on or off.  my only concern is the radio does not automatically turn off when i pull the key out of the ignition.  I can turn it off manually or remove the face panel of the stereo. However i am concerned it may still be a drain on my battery when left over night for example. 

I hope you haven't connected +12v to a plain Brown wire  as that is an earth wire !!!

i check tomorrow mate, am i likely to get a shock from the body work if that is the case?

 

No if you have connected +12v to a plain Brown wire you will have a fire !! if the fuse doesn't blow first