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mulder85

No windows roll up/down after authentic VW remote FOB conversion

17 posts in this topic

I am posting this here as well as I originally posted it on the Remote lock guide thread but not sure if anyone is following  that. If admins feel this should be deleted, please delete it.

 

I managed to get the genuine VW remote locking to work after acquiring the parts needed. The CCM was from an Ibiza, and I found the chip part of the key original VW from a  spares shop.At last, I've got  the factory Remote Key function. Even the middle boot button works as designed!

I only have one problem though. Contrary to everyone else, I can't get the remote windows roll-up/down to work on mine. Of course it still works when i do it with the key on the lock but that's not ideal. Kind of defies the purpose of remote function.

I have tried all types of different key presses (long, repeated etch) with no luck. Mine is a 5 door, 2 power windows version, so I configured the ccm at 00067, which tells it basically that there are 4/5 (+2) doors but only 2 of them have powered windows(+64),  and selective unlocking is not active (+1).

 

Is there something I might be missing?Is there a global setting elsewhere on VCDS that I might have forgotten to change?  I really wouldn't want to go the VDS Pro (no serial cable or serial port on laptop) or OBD2 specialized hack chips (locks CCM) for this, so, any help would be really appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Alex

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I looked into this on my Octavia (same setup) and I couldn't find any coding that would allow the windows/sunroof to actuate via the remote, they work, when as you say hold the key in the door only and there is nothing in my octy owners manual about the windows operating via the remote only via the drivers door key switch, So I can only assume that's the way VAG have made their units to work ??

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7 hours ago, nige8021 said:

I looked into this on my Octavia (same setup) and I couldn't find any coding that would allow the windows/sunroof to actuate via the remote, they work, when as you say hold the key in the door only and there is nothing in my octy owners manual about the windows operating via the remote only via the drivers door key switch, So I can only assume that's the way VAG have made their units to work ??

 

Thanks Nige8021. i suppose that's how these cars were shipped. But still I read comments that people were able to use that function on their CCM (6Q0 959 433 E) without having to change anything. It just worked.

 

Based on research, I found that this change is generally possible, by writing specific hex bytes in the CCM EEPROM. However that part of the address range is not available for editing in VCDS for our CCM module. It is available for other modules such as the one used in Golf MKV+, via the "Long Coding Helper" feature in VCDS. Just not for us. VDS Pro can do that and it's generally available for free, assuming you've got the right serial OBD2 cable and a laptop with a serial port.  The other option is to use those KVW100+ modules and their likes hacks, which are like "use once then burn" tools, that write those bits in the address range. However they also tend to lock down the CCM which means you can no longer make changes afterwards? In any case buying the additional equipment puts the whole project in the whole "Why did I bother doing it myself and not had it done in the dealership or a proper garage instead" question.

 

If anyone knows anything more about that, please share your wisdom!

 

Thanks,

Alex

 

 

 

 

Edited by mulder85

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Just an update on this:

 

After reading a lot about this, I decided to go down the VDS-Pro route. I  got the software and the exact byte addresses to be changed,  and found a laptop with a working RS232 port. Now I am just waiting for the serial OBD2 cable to come from China and then I'll give it a try. Will post an update with results in a month or so.

 

Thanks,

Alex

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What lead do you need ? as I have a few different ones and my Panasonic CF18 Toughbook has the 9 pin serial port

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1 hour ago, nige8021 said:

What lead do you need ? as I have a few different ones and my Panasonic CF18 Toughbook has the 9 pin serial port

 

Basically you need a generic OBD2 cable but it has to be Serial, not USB. That's because VDS-Pro only connects through serial. So you've got the right laptop for it. Still surprising to find that no one has created a free or affordable software tool that can write in these old EEPROMS via USB, the OBD cable we all have and love.

 

I bought this:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Super-High-Quality-Original-OBD2-16PIN-TO-DB9-RS232-Cable-for-Car-Diagnostic-Adapter/32668040887.html

 

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Ok I'm sure I have a generic lead in my collection, I eventually found a safe ( according to Win Defender !) download of the VDS-Pro, Just need to make a bootable memory stick, as I've read you need to run it from DOS and not the DOS prompt from winXP ?

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4 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

Ok I'm sure I have a generic lead in my collection, I eventually found a safe ( according to Win Defender !) download of the VDS-Pro, Just need to make a bootable memory stick, as I've read you need to run it from DOS and not the DOS prompt from winXP ?

 

Yep, that's true, it needs to run in clean, archaic DOS mode. No dos in windows mode or any other gimmicks. Just make a boot disk on your usb stick along with some DOS v6.22 or similar, and that's all you need.

Do you have the address ranges that you need to change and the procedure in general? Good luck with it if you try it. Please post the results!

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I found a link to a site http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/VAS 5052_bestanden/Windows roll up with VDS.htm  on a Passat forum, that gives the suggested values to change, just got to find that lead now :)

 

One thing I did see last night when looking through ElsaWin for the coding on my Octavia, there were a couple of CCM part numbers that they specified as with "Sunroof" ??

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@mulder85 I found my "dumb" 16 pin to RS232 cable, I'm glad I did a quick pinout check as if I'd connected it nothing would of worked and possible damage to either the car or laptop !!  as the RS232 pin 5 ground was connected to the CAN low and the 16 pin grounds 4 & 5 were connected to pins 1 & 2 of the 9 pin ( 1 Data carrier detect & 2 Rx data) Pin 16 (+12v) was connected to pin 9 (ring Indicator?) Pin 7 ( K line) to pin 4 (Data terminal ready ) 

 

So when your "Dumb" cable arrives, check it before you connect up !!

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On 12/21/2016 at 14:37, nige8021 said:

@mulder85 I found my "dumb" 16 pin to RS232 cable, I'm glad I did a quick pinout check as if I'd connected it nothing would of worked and possible damage to either the car or laptop !!  as the RS232 pin 5 ground was connected to the CAN low and the 16 pin grounds 4 & 5 were connected to pins 1 & 2 of the 9 pin ( 1 Data carrier detect & 2 Rx data) Pin 16 (+12v) was connected to pin 9 (ring Indicator?) Pin 7 ( K line) to pin 4 (Data terminal ready ) 

 

So when your "Dumb" cable arrives, check it before you connect up !!

 

@nige8021 Thanks for that heads up. Did you alter any of the connections to get this to work, or didn't use it after-all?

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@mulder85 I didn't risk connecting it as I'm sure damage would of been done !

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@mulder85 I didn't risk connecting it as I'm sure damage would of been done !


Ok, yeah I guess better to be safe. So does this mean that serial OBD2 cables available for a few quid on ebay/AliExpress etch are not good for this kind of job? What are they good for then?


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The one I have, has no electronics in the housing, it's just wired direct to the 9 pin 232 connector, looking at other posts about this, the lead needs some electronics in the system to work, so your lead might have this ? but what this lead I've got (an ebay item ? ) is meant to be used for I don't know, but putting 12V direct into one of the 232 pins, I'm sure the laptop wouldn't like it !!

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I see your point. I hope mine will be ok. However, according to rs 232 (serial) specs, voltage can vary from 3 to 25 volts. Therefore I don't think the car's 12v would be any hazard. Worst case scenario would be the lead not working. Just my opinion.

http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/telecommunications_networks/rs232/signals-voltages-levels.php


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Turns out you were right about the cable. The 5 pound cable I ordered turned out to be a straighthrough one with no chip inside. Obviously that won't work. I've now ordered the correct one for 15 pounds and I am waiting for it to arrive to test it.


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Just wanted to give a final update on this:

 

Although I got VDS to work and connect to the car with the Serial cable, it seems that my car is the "facelift" version, although it's got an assembly date of November 2004.  As a result, the HEX entries that would do the job, are not accessible.

 

In the end, I found a good car electrician, who did give it a go although he had warned me these cars are a bit strange with their locking/windows wiring. He managed to add the window closing function on top of the OEM remote locking, via using some time-delays, relays etch.  So finally the project is complete, and I've got factory remote locking with windows roll-up. Total Cost (Euros) = 30 Euros for the CCM + another 30 for an original remote FOB +  40 for the windows roll up work = 100 Euros or about 85-90 pounds for you guys.

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