HI Everyone,

 

My mk2f was working fine and i needed some help with my stereo as it wasn't working. Ive had a few friends take a look at it and they all most likely suspected a fuse to be blown in the engine bay. So I took it to a garage to get it checked and the mechanic who doesn't really know anything about electrics said a fuse was blown as it was. I got a replacement from halfords and took it back to him to fit.  Now, I don't really know what fuse he pulled out or what he done but when he told me to put my ignition on and start the car the lights on the clocks were all on and i can start the car but the car won't turn off. I can pull out the key and the car is still on. Now apparetnrely the mechanic claims that my ignition  had all of a sudden decided to fail at the same time the fuse were being played with but I find it extremely hard to believe because the car was solid and i had no issues starting and stopping as i drove to halfords literally 10 mins before the fuses were played with. the car has always started fine and stopped fine with no indication of the ignition wearing. I REALLY NEED SOME HELP , i now have to stall the car to turn it off and disconnect the battery.  ALSO funny how the fuse that he took out when put back in kills the engine. 

 

PLEASE CAN ANYBODY HELP

 

thank you

Edited 1 January, 20179 yr by Mk2f1998

Fuse 11 in engine bay is 8Amp for radio and interior light.

https://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3005.0

 

Maybe someone has dicked about before and connected permanent live from this to ignition  amp live?

 

Or a relay has got sticky... but there's only the X relief relay, or starter solenoid involved from memory.. not near a circuit diagram .

 

Pull fuse 11 from bottom row.

 

1--2--3--4--5--6--7--8

16-15-14-13-12-11-10-9

 

 

(and even though bullet fuses are less common than modern blades, what sort of clown garage does not have its own fuses in bulk that they can sell at a big mark up because they know which to fit where?)

Edited 1 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

Guessing when the radio went in, switched feed and constant feed got bridged together somewhere.

 

Pull the radio, separate the wires, insulate them if necessary and see if that fixes it. 

4 hours ago, Yeti said:

Guessing when the radio went in, switched feed and constant feed got bridged together somewhere.

 

Pull the radio, separate the wires, insulate them if necessary and see if that fixes it. 

 

Pull out the radio, the only cables left is the loom from the original wiring and the cables for the original speakers near the a pillars. both set of cables are in connectors and are insulated. 

 

thanks for the reply

6 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Fuse 11 in engine bay is 8Amp for radio and interior light.

https://www.polog40.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3005.0

 

Maybe someone has dicked about before and connected permanent live from this to ignition  amp live?

 

Or a relay has got sticky... but there's only the X relief relay, or starter solenoid involved from memory.. not near a circuit diagram .

 

Pull fuse 11 from bottom row.

 

1--2--3--4--5--6--7--8

16-15-14-13-12-11-10-9

 

 

(and even though bullet fuses are less common than modern blades, what sort of clown garage does not have its own fuses in bulk that they can sell at a big mark up because they know which to fit where?)

Hi mate,

 

I'm going to give this a go shall i try and pull fuse 11 when the car is off or start it ?

 

cheers

 

With it off. Check that removing it extinguishes the interior light. will prove it is the right one.

 

(Don't really want any sparks on the outside of an internal combustion engine.)

 

@yeti's theory is good. Modern radios have permanent data retention supply and switched main power.

Red and yellow lead into radio usually.

Maybe someone randomly picked a switched live to connect to the connector behind the dash, but that also goes to the ignition amp.

 

Edited 1 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

20 minutes ago, dvderlm said:

With it off. Check that removing it extinguishes the interior light. will prove it is the right one.

 

(Don't really want any sparks on the outside of an internal combustion engine.)

 

@yeti's theory is good. Modern radios have permanent data retention supply and switched main power.

Red and yellow lead into radio usually.

Maybe someone randomly picked a switched live to connect to the connector behind the dash, but that also goes to the ignition amp.

 

hi,

 

how would i know to check if the permanent live is connected to the ignition amp live. 

 

thanks

Drop it out and send us a pic of the wiring.

 

Oh, disconnect your battery while the engines off, or the ignition circuit being live all the time will flatten the battery and possibly damage the coil. 

With a wiring diagram and a multimeter set to voltage range.

 

If it is TCI-H ignition amp one of the 7? pins carries switched 12v supply. It should have 0 volts when engine is meant to be off and 12 volts approx, when engine meant to be running.

If the starter motor turns engine over 250rpm the Hall sender tells the TCI-H ignition amp when to cause a spark for each cylinder via the distributor. If amp has no supply, no sparks.

 

You might also want to check if there's 12volt to coil when there should not be (engine not running, key at off) or you are at risk of burning the coil out.

 

 

Yeti types faster than me.

 

 

Edited 1 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

45 minutes ago, Yeti said:

Drop it out and send us a pic of the wiring.

 

Oh, disconnect your battery while the engines off, or the ignition circuit being live all the time will flatten the battery and possibly damage the coil. 

will have a look tomorrow morning and yes the battery is disconnected.

 

thanks

44 minutes ago, dvderlm said:

With a wiring diagram and a multimeter set to voltage range.

 

If it is TCI-H ignition amp one of the 7? pins carries switched 12v supply. It should have 0 volts when engine is meant to be off and 12 volts approx, when engine meant to be running.

If the starter motor turns engine over 250rpm the Hall sender tells the TCI-H ignition amp when to cause a spark for each cylinder via the distributor. If amp has no supply, no sparks.

 

You might also want to check if there's 12volt to coil when there should not be (engine not running, key at off) or you are at risk of burning the coil out.

 

 

Yeti types faster than me.

 

 

i will send the pics tomorrow morning. need a pic of the fuse box right and wiring connected right?

 

and pic of the radio wiring...

Yeti's suggestion s a good starting point.

In any case, if those wires have become joined at some point, they need sorting out, as the cable cross sectional area is NOT designed to carry much current, so COULD result in a fire.

Keep the battery disconnected until you are sure that everything is OK.

 

Happy new year.

12 hours ago, dvderlm said:

and pic of the radio wiring...

hi mate,

 

so I took out number 11 fuse and thankfully the its back to the way it was, the polo starts and shuts off now. I have taken the radio out and haven't tested to see if it works, I've got a feeling it won't if everything is back to the way it was. there isn't anything in fuse 11 now and if feel if i put something in it seems to go back into all electric on mode i think. I haven't tried and see what will happen if i put the fuse back in.

 

any suggestions to what i should do next to get the stereo to work. ( some of the wires behind the stereo were naked, but i think it should still work)

 

cheers everyone and happy new year 

"Naked "wires, as in bare, no insulation?

 

Post a pic of the radio's connector..

Is it an ISO  connector or a proprietary Japanese thing?

 

Also a pic of the car connector, just in case that has been mangled...

 

Simplest is to run permanent live +12v eg from cigarette lighter or battery +ve (ideally via an inline fuse matching radio power eg 10Amp for 4x30watt =120 watt at 12 volts) to both main power and data retention radio pins. This solution is only good if you can turn off the radio with a switch on the front, or set it to genuine standby, otherwise it may drain your battery if it consumes more than about 100 milliamps on a very cold night.

 

You might also want to connect dashboard dimming light supply, depending on model, if you don't want to be dazzled at night.

 

So a pic of the wiring diagram in the radio instruction manual...

 

 

Edited 2 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

On 02/01/2017 at 22:17, dvderlm said:

"Naked "wires, as in bare, no insulation?

 

Post a pic of the radio's connector..

Is it an ISO  connector or a proprietary Japanese thing?

 

Also a pic of the car connector, just in case that has been mangled...

 

Simplest is to run permanent live +12v eg from cigarette lighter or battery +ve (ideally via an inline fuse matching radio power eg 10Amp for 4x30watt =120 watt at 12 volts) to both main power and data retention radio pins. This solution is only good if you can turn off the radio with a switch on the front, or set it to genuine standby, otherwise it may drain your battery if it consumes more than about 100 milliamps on a very cold night.

 

You might also want to connect dashboard dimming light supply, depending on model, if you don't want to be dazzled at night.

 

So a pic of the wiring diagram in the radio instruction manual...

 

 

 

Can't manage to send the pics of the stereo and cabling as the file size is too big.

 

5 hours ago, Mk2f1998 said:

Can't manage to send the pics of the stereo and cabling as the file size is too big.

 

Upload the pictures to a Photo sharing site like Photobucket, Flikr or similar, then copy/paste the IMG code for the pictures into the reply box on here, then they will be displayed without the warning about the file size

a higher resolution pic of the wiring diagram would help too, I've tried zooming but most of the text is too pixilated to read.

There is  another diagram for 'power connection options' on the reverse which would be useful.

 

(connected computer to a TV and read from far side of room!)

 

I suspect that the individual bullet connectors in the oval from connector 3 will be the place to cure it...

Edited 5 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

On 5 January 2017 at 08:43, dvderlm said:

a higher resolution pic of the wiring diagram would help too, I've tried zooming but most of the text is too pixilated to read.

There is  another diagram for 'power connection options' on the reverse which would be useful.

 

(connected computer to a TV and read from far side of room!)

 

I suspect that the individual bullet connectors in the oval from connector 3 will be the place to cure it...

Hi everyone,

 

sorry for the late reply I've been really busy with uni :(. i have uploaded the pics on photo bucket  my username is mk2f. http://s50.photobucket.com/user/mk2f/library/?view=recent&page=1 ...now with regards to the stereo this is what i know so far. stereo used to work fine when i bought the car, i pulled it out to install some wiring for another set of speakers but didn't really do it properly and don't think i could have caused any harm (didn't spark anything just sort of pulled it out to see) it randomly stopped working then, (unresponsive, no power), my mate told me to change the fuse(small 10a that goes directly in)  changed it and it ran for about 10/15mins and shut of again ( i suspect due to some naked wires). now i have cut them and insulated them. i then suspected a fuse to be blown inside the main box and fuse11 was blown i believe but that resulted in polo on mode when a new fuse was put in(chaos). confused now on how to make it work.

 

cheers for the advice everyone

You didn't add a better pic if the wiring diagram, but the Sony model code let me find http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/DSX-A40UI

and

http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4468989121.pdf

hmm, is not using the genuine Sony Iso connector with double bullet connectors for power connection. You might have shorted the amp output (at a loudspeaker cable?) to blow the unit's 10 amp fuse.

 

The manual says

Fuse replacement

When replacing the fuse, be sure to use one matching the amperage rating stated on the original fuse. If the fuse blows, check the power connection and replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again after replacement, there may be an internal malfunction. In such a case, consult your nearest Sony dealer.
Power connection diagram  (8)
Auxiliary power connector may vary depending on the car. Check your car’s auxiliary power connector diagram to make sure the connections match correctly. There are three basic types (-1, -2, -3). You may need to switch the positions of the red and yellow leads in the car stereo’s power supply lead. After matching the connections and switched power supply leads correctly, connect the unit to the car’s power supply. If you have any questions and problems connecting your unit that are not covered in this manual consult the car dealer.

 

not very useful.

 

There's an auto-off mode that can be selected, page 13 of the operations manual. That might stop switched and permanent being connected.. Need to find the ISO pin-outs to understand.

 

 

genuine connector has bullets like this

Edited 14 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

4 hours ago, dvderlm said:

hmm, is not using the genuine Sony Iso connector with double bullet connectors for power connection. You might have shorted the amp output (at a loudspeaker cable?) to blow the unit's 10 amp fuse.

 

The manual says

Fuse replacement

When replacing the fuse, be sure to use one matching the amperage rating stated on the original fuse. If the fuse blows, check the power connection and replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again after replacement, there may be an internal malfunction. In such a case, consult your nearest Sony dealer.
Power connection diagram  (8)
Auxiliary power connector may vary depending on the car. Check your car’s auxiliary power connector diagram to make sure the connections match correctly. There are three basic types (-1, -2, -3). You may need to switch the positions of the red and yellow leads in the car stereo’s power supply lead. After matching the connections and switched power supply leads correctly, connect the unit to the car’s power supply. If you have any questions and problems connecting your unit that are not covered in this manual consult the car dealer.

 

not very useful.

 

There's an auto-off mode that can be selected, page 13 of the operations manual. That might stop switched and permanent being connected.. Need to find the ISO pin-outs to understand.

 

 

genuine connector has bullets like this

haven't got the manual or the original connectors as previous owner did everything

manuals are online...

 connector is fairly standard. http://pinoutguide.com/CarAudio/car_audio_iso_pinout.shtml

 

When you pulled it out to fit new speakers did disconnect power like battery earth strap?

In fact blowing the radio's fuse might have done it. I'm guessing this lost stations and reset the Auto-off feature. See page 13 of the user manual in Sony support

http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4468988111.pdf

 

Try re-enabling the AUTO-OFF. Press and hold select. Rotate to find auto-off setup choose 30S. (other options are 30minutes or 60 minutes or OFF = not enabled).

Then when engine is turned off, the radio will turn itself off and not drain battery.

 

Then you need a multimeter to check pin 4 and 7 of the ISO connector are not both live with engine off.

 

Edited 14 January, 20179 yr by dvderlm

issue resolved, stereo is up and running. fuse 11 is just empty which seems to be the way my polo likes it :)