hi guys, new here to the forum. havng a little trouble with the old polo. pulling up a 00518 code with the vagcom. says "throttle position sensor (G69) no signal", intermittent. i cant find a pinout so that i can test the harness and the tps itself. been gathering bits and pieces here and there to try and figure out what the wires do. any help appreciated. thanks

 

ps. my harness has the 8 pin connector

First Welcome to the forum.

 

Pin 1 Black wire to Engine disconnect 10 pin Black connector pin 10 Black/Red wire to ECU pin 2  Idle motor

Pin 2 White wire  """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin 4 White/Black wire to """""" pin26 """"""""""""

Pin 3 Grey/Yellow wire """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""  pin 8 Gry/Yel wire to       """"""  pin 10 Throttle closed switch

Pin 4 Red/White wire    """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin3 Rd/Wht wire to       """"""" pin 14 G69 one end of resistor

pin 5 Red/Blue wire      """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin 1 Rd/Blu wire to        """"""  pin 41 G69 Wiper of resistor (position)

Pin 6 No Connection

Pin 7 Brown   Ground for throttle closed switch and G69 resistors

Pin 8 Red/Green wire to Engine disconnect 10 pin black conn pin 7 Rd/Grn wire to ECU pin 16 G69 Wiper of second resistor (position)

On 3/5/2017 at 07:16, nige8021 said:

First Welcome to the forum.

 

Pin 1 Black wire to Engine disconnect 10 pin Black connector pin 10 Black/Red wire to ECU pin 2  Idle motor

Pin 2 White wire  """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin 4 White/Black wire to """""" pin26 """"""""""""

Pin 3 Grey/Yellow wire """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""  pin 8 Gry/Yel wire to       """"""  pin 10 Throttle closed switch

Pin 4 Red/White wire    """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin3 Rd/Wht wire to       """"""" pin 14 G69 one end of resistor

pin 5 Red/Blue wire      """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin 1 Rd/Blu wire to        """"""  pin 41 G69 Wiper of resistor (position)

Pin 6 No Connection

Pin 7 Brown   Ground for throttle closed switch and G69 resistors

Pin 8 Red/Green wire to Engine disconnect 10 pin black conn pin 7 Rd/Grn wire to ECU pin 16 G69 Wiper of second resistor (position)

 hi nige8021, i didnt see this posted so i apologize i didnt get back sooner. thank you! would i be pressing my luck if i asked if you happen to have the fuse panel layout and relay layout?

 

 

21 hours ago, nige8021 said:

 

 

sweet man thank you!!

 

alright guys i have a new question about one of the wires in the tps plug. i have kept getting a fault code of 00670 "tps implausable signal". so i asked on here for a pinout so i may test the wires for a short back to the ecu. today i started testing the wires and when i got to pin #5 (red with blue wire) i noticed inside the socket there was nothing enableing it to connect with the pin on the tps, like it was broken or something. all the other wires had continuity. my question is

 

1) what does this wire do (pin 5 Red/Blue wire      """""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" pin 1 Rd/Blu wire to        """"""  pin 41 G69 Wiper of resistor (position).

 

2) could this be causing the code of implausable signal to pop up?

If that pin isn't held in the connector it would throw up that code, as that wire is the signal wire to the ECU for the throttle butterfly position, the other one on pin 8 is for the position of the Idle control. 

It looks like someone has tried to remove the pin at some time and damaged the connector ?

alright, new twist. so i made a temporary connection to the pin through the plug. here comes the crazy part. now when i turn the ignition to the on position and open the throttle, i get a ticking noise down in the transmission oil pan and the computer pulls up some code about a "soleniod" short or open circuit. it has never done this noise before. it still pulls up a "tps no signal code".  i really hate to go off on s different tangent but i feel at this point i really should give all the background info into this problem:

 

i bought this car for next to nothing knowing it had electrical problems (this is my first VW). the day i picked it up, it turned on with alittle effort and i brought it home driving. the stated problem was the car would intermittently turn off or when it would turn on it would not idle. ok so without doing any code testing(cause i didnt have a scanner) i just read about symptoms in these cars and it pointed to the coolant temperature sensor. i disconnected it and the car ran great....so i bought a sensor and everything was cool, took the car on a good 2 hour drive up the coast and it didnt miss a beat. later that week, the missus was driving the car and while at the store it didnt turn on again. i towed it home and tried lookin into the problem. i took the car to a shop around the corner and they scanned it. said it was pulling up a code for the throttle body. ok so i got a new one and had them do the adaptation. the car became alittle more drivable but still alot of cutting off, not idling ect ect. i took the spark plugs out one day and saw they where super black like the system was running rich. i kept looking into the different sensors that controlled the fuel air mixture such as the maf sensor (i bought a new one) tested the O2 sensors before and after catalytic converter. the front one looks new and i think the rear one is bad, not too sure how to properly test it, cant find a new one (says they are obsolete). i have looked into fuses, relays, ground connections, fuel delivery (i replaced the fuelfilter which was pretty damn clogged) and nothing fixes the issue, as a matter of fact, the car seems to be getting worse, now it is completely undrivable and it wont even stay on for more than a minute.

 

anyhow, not sure how to proceed, my perception is that the ecu is faulty. i would buy another one but i am not 100% sure that it is just a plug and play deal.  my understanding is that i have to program the computer to accept the immobilizer system? (my car has a ring around the ignition switch which reads a chip in the key and sends it too a little black box under the dash, there is no immobilizer symbol on the instrument panel). not sure what else would prevent me from buying another ecu and just straight swapping it. my friend who works on cars overseas says he's pretty sure i can get another one and just plug it in as long as the ecu has the same numbers on it. any input into these woes?

Edited 11 March, 20179 yr by motorlou

So are you clearing the fault codes after doing this temp connection to the throttle body then doing a re-scan ?

 

From that description I'm guessing you have an automatic ?

 

What engine code do you have ? as the ones listed for 1998 only have 1 lambda sensor ?

 

If you do try to swap the engine ECU apart from making sure it is exactly the same part number, you will need to match it to your immobiliser using the full version of VCDS it isn't a plug n play

yes i have been clearing the codes after i changed sensor or connecting/disconnecting any of them ect. yep the car is automatic.. 1998 vw polo 1.6L engine code AEE. Vin# wvwxzz6NZWW117063, ecu part # 032 906 030 AD . if i could ask, my car doesnt have the key symbol in the instrument cluster, does this mean i have the older version of the immobilizer system (system II?) i have available to me parts from another vw polo, same year same engine/tranny ect ect. the ECU number varies in the last 2 letters, mine says 032 906 030 AD, the other one says 032 906 030 AH. in theory, if i get the ecu, the immobilizer with the key and ignition switch (mine is pretty buggered anyhow). this should work? with the exception of maybe adapting the throttle body? sorry i have so many questions but vw is all new to me. here are some pictures of what i have.......

 

ps. i cannot erase the "service inspection" message on the instrument cluster, tried all methods i've read about online. could be another tall tell sign of bad ecu? 

 

 

There is no symbol in any of the 6N1 speedos for the Immob, they only started fitting them in the 9N1 (2002>)

 

The AEE definitely only has 1 Lambda probe

 

To get around the re-coding you would need to get the ECU, Immob unit & the matching key transponder/key fob

 

The re-setting of the service interval is nothing to do with the ECU as that is all done within the speedo unit, you should be able to reset it with VCDS

mine is definately a 1998.....two lambda probes brother, i'll take a picture for you tonight when i get home. this is one of the problems i feel with these cars, is the lack of consistency in equipment and information!

Well I'm going by the main dealer wiring diagrams for a 98 6N1 with the AEE engine and they only show the 1 lambda sensor, unless yours was a special edition for a non European market ??

sorry i took so long, got busy at work. here is the picture of the lambda probe on the rear end or the catalytic and what it looks like out of the car (too lazy to take it out). BTW, i live in new zealand so european market?

That is the position for the normal sensor, so where is the other one ?

 

NZ/Aus are not considered "European" market, my dealer manual doesn't cover the NZ/Aus market cars  

On 3/15/2017 at 03:18, nige8021 said:

That is the position for the normal sensor, so where is the other one ?

 

NZ/Aus are not considered "European" market, my dealer manual doesn't cover the NZ/Aus market cars  

 

 

the other one is located in the exhaust pipe right behind and underneath the intake manifold (back of engine)