I'm confused as to why there were 2 switches on my pedal, I dont have cruise control, and have no idea what else it could be

 

I only realised after I changed my alternator starter motor and battery thinking any of them being the problem for my bat not charging, but after tye new battery last Sunday, today she died again, and doing a bit of googling and practising with my new toy the multi-meter, I decided to test the brake light switch as from previous experience I know the trouble it can cause, it turns out the blue one is faulty but the white is working, 

Edited 27 July, 20179 yr by Schnooky

Is it an automatic? 

7 hours ago, Yeti said:

Is it an automatic? 

 

No its a 6n2 1.4 16v estate, I've come across several things that are totally different from the normal 6n/6n2, I looked up on YouTube how to use the multi-meter to test the switch, and from the video I watched, the blue one looks like a brake switch too, but surely that cant be? Right? 

There should be two switches, one for the brake lights + ECU and the other just for the engine ECU.  the brake light switch has Red/Black & Grey/Red wires and the other one White/Red & Black/Red wires, the way the switches operate is not the same, the brake light switch puts a 12v supply to the brake light bulbs & ECU when the pedals pressed, the other one removes a 12v supply to the ECU when pressed

8 hours ago, nige8021 said:

There should be two switches, one for the brake lights + ECU and the other just for the engine ECU.  the brake light switch has Red/Black & Grey/Red wires and the other one White/Red & Black/Red wires, the way the switches operate is not the same, the brake light switch puts a 12v supply to the brake light bulbs & ECU when the pedals pressed, the other one removes a 12v supply to the ECU when pressed

 

Wow thank you!!  thats what I call useful info, thank you so much! I did take it to the vw dealer/garage, but I was told there that it's a 4 pin plug turned into 2 x 2 pin plugs, they never seen it before lol 

 

So if I understand it right, to test the ECU one, to get a reading on the multi-meter, when set to continuous, the switch should be not pressed in? Unlike the brake light one that will give a reading when pressed? 

Not that I got a reading on it either way, I did on the brake light one, hope it makes sense the way I try to explain 

 

Thank you again 

With the brake pedal not depressed, there should be a continuous or zero ohms resistance across the switch for the ECU and the other one should be open circuit or infinity resistance, then with the pedal pressed, the readings for the two switches should be reversed, the one for the brake light & ECU you don't really need to test with a meter, if the brake lights come on when pressed, that's as good as tested that switch :)