Hi everyone,

 

Pleased to be here and this is my first post, so "hi"!

 

I joined today as I bought a 91 Polo Breadvan with some issues. It was very inexpensive (£80 with 6 months MOT) and I fancy trying to do the work myself.

I also own a 73 Beetle that is on the road (tucked up in the garage for winter) and also a rolling resto.

 

I wondered if anyone has a step-by-step guide to changing the head gasket on a AAV engine? Or can point me in the right direction for one? (no Haynes manual advice please)

Pictures would be really helpful too.

 

Thanks very much in advance and I look forward to getting to know you all.

 

Will

Edited 28 December, 20178 yr by wilbo-bilbo

Drain the oil and coolent, need to be replaced anyway

 

Youll need to strip everything back first inlet wise and disconnect the thermostat housing from the head. 

 

the exhaust nuts will be the hardest part, wire brush them and cover them with penetraiting oil/ wd40 over night for a few days before starting, when you do them build the pressure up before turning and then slowly rachet them a tiny amount a few times then move to the next one, the friction heats them up and they can snap if you try hit them in one go so do a bit, move on to draining oil, do a bit more and so on

 

Of it takes all day it takes all day, better than removing a snapped stud with mole grips

 

Youll want to set the engine to tdc before taking the cam belt off followed by the pulley to free the plastic backing 

 

Will see what pics i have 

Edited 29 December, 20178 yr by kiran_182

Dont forget when putting your 13mm socket on the exhaust nuts, tap it with a hammer to make sure it sits straight and doesnt slip on you and round them off

Thanks Kiran.

Sounds like some good advice - much appreciated.

This is my cam locking tool

 

Get some cotton buds too to clear all the bolt recesses on the block of water otherwise the head bolts wont torque properly 

Also use a razor to clean the surface of the block and head of any gasket 

 

Idealy get the head skimmed but if the gasket hasnt blown to a massive degree you can get away with reusing it

 

New gasket has to face a certain way up

 

Rocker cover bolts are 6nm overdo them just a shade and they snap. There is a sequence for undoing and doing up head bolts so the head doesnt warp

 

Has the gasket gone or is this for good measure? 

 

Be a good time to place the thermostat coolent sensors and rad sensor as theyre quite cheap and itll help it run better. Use a genuine vw coolent temp sensor, blue one on thermo

Really useful info thank you.

 

Yes the gasket has definitely gone - you can see oil coming out of the front left corner. They seem to all here?

Thats a comon leak but not always a leak that affects the running, be worth doing a compression test to see if your low on any cylinders. What the leak can do is coat the alt in oil and stop the charging cycle working efficiantly 

 

That said a hg and cambelt change will ensure you have a solid runner to work on

 

You got it filthy cheap so you wont loose throwing some money at it

Edited 31 December, 20178 yr by kiran_182

I’m looking to get a new torque wrench. Is there one you can recommend that will cover all basis of the work I will be doing?

Halfords will do a generic one that will do the job,  will probably start around 20nm so will cover almost all engine work.

think 1st stage headbolts are 40nm then 60nm then 180 degree turn. each stage in sequence 

Thanks Kiran.

Do you have a link to a recommended head gasket?

 

There are so many available, but I would rather have a good one on the car.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292339573839

 

Headbolts

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172872934551

 

Thank you!

1 hour ago, wilbo-bilbo said:

Thank you!

I have a full set of unused head bolts still in pack if needed pm me.

I received my head bolts so thanks for that!

 

Got most of the disassembly done now.

 

Can anyone recommend any types of sealant and grease? What should I put  it on when I am putting things back together... Sump plug, headbolts, exhaust manifolds? Anthing else? 

I've always done headbolts without any extra oil/lube/grease other than the protective coating they might have in the box.

 

Reason 1, the hydraulic force could split the block.

Reason2, setting the torque correctly depends on the expected friction.

 

Sump bolt is in oil.

Exhaust manifold studs are too hot to rust, but are always a pain.

arent you supposed to lightly oil the head/washer ? stop it binding

 

otherwise all dry ...be a good idea to get brass manifold nuts from ebay , better chance they will come undone in the future

Cheers guys.

Edited 10 January, 20188 yr by wilbo-bilbo

Due to the weather being bad and being super busy at work, its taking me a while to get things done.

 

However, today I managed to get the exhaust manifold nuts off. Wow they are stubborn! I had to use a nut splitter and various other methods in the end - I don't think they had come off before as the car has only done 64000 miles. I will be sure to take steveo3002's advice and get brass nuts for reassembly.

I am even a little tempted to go for a stainless manifold - Is there any benefit to this? I would try and find a second-hand one, if anyone has one kicking around?

 

Looks like the reason for the headgasket failure was VERY dirty oil (almost like mud in its consistency). Also see the picture of the rocker cover off, mayo time!

 

Next stop is the head off and lets see what we have.

 

wilbo-bilbo

I'm just about to put my head back on after the head gasket failed and for exhaust studs I'm using copper nuts and washers with stainless full threaded studs as for the stainless exhaust manifold they do come up now and then, iv heart they do give better exhaust flow. I have a mild steel on on mine at the moment.

421 £110 delivered - youll need to get a lambda sensor boss welded in, make sure its at the right angle as on the cat do the probe doesnt foul the tunnel

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351812634225

 

 

If your going to up the power then this is a good place to start 

 

Edited 1 February, 20188 yr by kiran_182

Hi all.

 

I have got to a point where I am not sure what to do next. The headbolts are out and the head is now completely loose and able to rock about. The only thing is I can’t just lift it off (I know I have a lot of things still attached)

 

What else do I need to take off that is going to stop me razor blading the old gasket and fitting the new one?

 

I alighted the camshaft to the marker and cut it and I have also cut the alternator belt (both where pretty knackered and I have replacements). How do I get new ones back on?

 

As you may have guessed I am a complete novice and am trying to learn. Any advice would be great.

 

Thanks

 

Will