And  once in 2nd no changing up or  down? No wonder you want 9500rpm.

45 to 65mph ?  it looked faster. I like the hillman imp.  Do you know what duration cam it uses?

 

Imp needs 320 for 9000rpm

http://hillmanimpspecialists.com/pricelist7.htm

Edited 17 February, 20188 yr by dvderlm

What about setting the box so you use 2nd and 3rd and get better pace top revs?

 

That would be a good idea

3 hours ago, kiran_182 said:

What about setting the box so you use 2nd and 3rd and get better pace top revs?

 

 

And I’m not sure but it’s rapid out the gate and then not as good around the track 

Update: 25/02/18

 

Just been given authorisation to go ahead and build the car! (It took a while) I haven since bought and engine to strip down to see what’s the max we can bore and see if it’s actually worth doing? 

 

Thanks tou you all for the help so far!

Edited 25 February, 20188 yr by Mullen29

There apears to be pictures missing

7 hours ago, kiran_182 said:

There apears to be pictures missing

 They are to follow collecting the engine tonight then hopefully strip it down tomorrow! Fingers crossed ? 

Good news on getting the go ahead,

 

Which engine have you bought?

12 hours ago, kiran_182 said:

Good news on getting the go ahead,

 

Which engine have you bought?

Just a standard 1043

UPDATE 

07/03/18

 

so after a long wait and buying the wrong engine ? (always check engine codes ?) I have sourced a 1043cc engine with the hz engine code which is the one I’m after? 

 

Any way today I started stripping some of the remaining items off the car! And found a hole in the passengers foot well! ( it was hidden underneath the wool sound deadning) it doesn’t make any difference as it’s coming up just thought it was worth a mention! 

 

I also started to pull the wiring out from under the bonnet and on the interior! 

(Photos to follow)

 

 

HZ is a 75mm bore 1043cc post 1985.

 

I think that means injection suitable oil pump for a 3bolt hydro head... but you will be using solid lifter conversion in the head.
Sounds good.

 

Passenger floor hole.  It's where water collects. Easy weld fix. Bottom of the doors and sills okay?

Or alternatively ready for some Flintstones style sprint start action. Just need to find a really light but fast passenger.

I think there will be bigger holes than that being put in that shell

14 hours ago, dvderlm said:

 

I think that means injection suitable oil pump for a 3bolt hydro head...

Na, rubbish. 1985 HZ has Pierburg 1b3 carb or Weber TLA carb not injection.

So the old pump.

 

SPI is like 1991 AAU/AAV.

 

 

 

On 08/03/2018 at 22:02, dvderlm said:

Na, rubbish. 1985 HZ has Pierburg 1b3 carb or Weber TLA carb not injection.

So the old pump.

 

SPI is like 1991 AAU/AAV.

 

 

 

Would the engine be one of the best for performance?

HZ.. (from August 1985) only if modified. I assume you are going to try for 77mm (bowl in crown) pistons and custom conrods to get near 1100cc.

(12.5:1Cr  77mm pistons here https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/polo-g40-high-performance-pistons-kit-wiseco).

And you'll balance the whole rotating bottom end assembly with a lightened or lightweight flywheel.

 

Then you'll need to improve cylinder head flow, which will be inlet porting, bigger inlet valves, long duration cam, thinner head gasket and vernier pulley to adjust for top to bottom differences of conrods. Exhaust valve can stay small if ports are matched to good  exhaust according to one book.. I think Performance with Economy by Dave Vizard. (but the same Dave Vizard when  tuning an imp - he uses a head with over large exhaust valves to reduce pumping losses...).  So experimentation

or a flowbench might be needed.  I've not. changed exhaust valves, but I don't have dyno figure for the new carburation. With bigger piston there will be less valve shrouding with a larger inlet valve. If reaally big (>38mm) the guide will need to be offset.

 

To get huge valve  lift will need valve pockets milling.

 

Has it got 8 bolt rocker cover? Mechanical. Use a Schrick classic cam.

or 3 bolt cover? Hydraulic. Use a Newman cam with solid lifter conversion.

 

I believe you can fit a hydro head to the older block... if you either upgrade the oil pump, or use a solid lifter conversion and also change crank and waterpump  pulleys to the modern "SuperTorque"  tooth shape, from old square teeth.

if engine is after Sep 1985 it will have the upgraded oil pump. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 12 March, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Not too bothered about exhaust ect as they will be custom made just what bits I can get off the shelf which would fit in and give me lots of power! I’m not too worried about the cylinder head either as we would be port polishing bigger valves ect any way! And cams I’ll worry about that once Ik where about it’s gonna rev too? 

—————————————————-

The main aim bits I want to know are:

 

1)what heads the best? 

2)Gear ratios for all the different boxes? 

3)Would the g40 rods fit to the 1043 crank and give the same stroke (is the stroke on the rods or the actual crank? 

4) is there a crank that’s the same as the 1043cc one that’s stronger (the shorter stroke one?) ? 

 

Also as I said I bought the wrong engine originally I didn’t check the engine codes and since it new to the vw scene I didn’t really know the difference between the engines, till I got back and checked and realised I bought the wrong one! The one that I have now is out of a mk1 golf with the engine code (GG) is there any thing good about these engines that I would need? 

 

Thanks 

 

 

 

 

The best flowing heads are any of the 1.3 heads. If you have a complete HZ they also have a 1.3 head on them too. The restriction on them was in the inlet and exhaust, it was only the later AAU that had the smaller head ports and smaller valves.

If you're being picky, the GT/G40 heads have slightly bigger ports, but the difference is negligible and if you're doing your own porting anyway you'd be better just using a 1.3 head.

 

Gear ratios, I assume you want as short as possible? That will be the GT gearboxes, or I believe the 5 speed gearboxes from the 1.0 are a tiny bit shorter.

 

Rod wise, I'm not sure on the specs of the G40 rods compared to the 1.0 rods, but the G40 rods aren't any stronger.

 

Crank wise, you rarely hear of any of these engines (apart from high powered G40s) suffering from bearing or crank issues. So I'd say you'd be safe enough with the standard HZ or AAU stuff so long as it all looks good.

 

Also if you stick with all the standard parts and find an issue, at least finding replacements should be cheap, as most people remove the 1.0 engines in favour of the 1.3 and give the 1.0 away for next to nothing.  

Yes - the stroke difference 1043 to 1272 is at the crank. 

 

If engine code GG has combustion chamber in head for use with flat pistons, then you could fit a massive lifting long duration cam.

All the ratios

http://vwtechnic.com/Technic/VWGearboxRatios.xls

look for 084 or 085 boxes

 

- or 082 as you only use first n second :-)

So the GG was 69.5mm bore 72mm stroke 8:1 compression. Yes 1093cc but not basis for high performance.

http://www.golf1-ig.de/golf/facts/engines/details/gg.php

Edited 13 March, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Right thank you for that, defo gonna use the head from the engine I have and go that route! 

 

In in terms of pistons and rods I got that sorted too! 

But there’s one issue is obviously the block situation! Can some one tell me what the best block is in terms of metal between the pistons ect so I can bore it out as big as I can? 

 

Thanks in advance! 

Remeber it has to be a block fitted to a mk2 or 2f in production

3 hours ago, kiran_182 said:

Remeber it has to be a block fitted to a mk2 or 2f in production

So does that mean that there is only one block between them all? 

Yeah all the blocks are the same. The G40 block has some extra webbing for added strength, but I'm not sure it would be needed on your build.

 

As for boring it out, I believe you can go as big as a 77mm piston.

Those wiseco forged oversize pistons are very expensive.

Worrabout Mazda 323 E3 series (1980-87) pistons 77mm as std?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PISTON-FOR-MAZDA-323-FAMILIA-E3-ENG-1-3-1980-1987/162070378273