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Mk 2 bread van GL motor poor running

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Hello, my car polo mk 2 3door 1043cc GL engine year 1985.

My problem is poor or none existent running conditions. I have explored many avenues to investigate problem causes? These included re-ringing the engine, new bearing shells, valve stem seals. Plugs, HT leads, Beru coil, replacement carburettor Weber to replace the Solex. All without success, I cannot even get it to rough idle, using fresh fuel, pump is working fuel getting to carburettor. Cam belt timing checked, initial ignition timing to No1 cylinder checked. Static advance timing with test bulb checked.

The only item I haven't changed is the distributor, even though the points are set, and capacitor good, auto advance weights spring apart.The engine refuses to run. 

I have become so desperate, I am contemplating changing the whole engine, to one with electronic ignition. My camshaft is engaged by the distributor with a fork into a slotted end on the cam. This is different to later engines employing the round pin type distributor. I cannot even change my cylinder head to a later one, because they aren't compatible. Does anyone know if I can convert my distributor to electronic ignition, or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely. I am well and truly flumuxed.

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You could very likely fit one of these Golf KR distributors plus a TCI-H ignition amp to slotted camshaft.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Distributor-VW-Golf-2-16V-PL-KR-Passat-Corrado-Jetta-Seat-CORDOBA-Ibiza-NEW/182171670442

 

I'm using one on a GK engine instead of original Bosch.

 

Are you getting spark?

Does it fire at all? 

 

 

See also the FAQ

 

 

 

Or an Accuspark conversion (JFU4L ?) for the 1.3 Golf

http://accuspark.co.uk/car_search.html#

Edited by dvderlm

One more thing.

 

Plug leads to the right cylinders?

 

1,3,4,2 anticlockwise?

Welcome to the forum.

I don't quite understand your wording when you say, "Poor or none existing running conditions'.

Are you saying that it won't run at all, or that it doesn't run very well?

There are advantages to electronic ignition, but there is no earthly reason why it shouldn't run, using your existing distributor - How do you know that the capacitor is 'good' (how did you test it?)

It is worth checking that the low tension insulation in the distributor is in order. You could use a multimeter to do that, or connect a 12v test light in parallel with the low tension terminal and earth. (the bulb should light each time that the points open and go out when they close.)

If the bulb doesn't light at all, there is a short circuit or the capacitor is faulty.

If the bulb is 'on' all the time, there is an open circuit.

 

As DVDERLM suggests, do check that the plug leads are in the correct order - very basic, but you wouldn't be the first one to be caught out by it. Also check that you have set the ignition timing to give a spark near the top of the COMPRESSION stroke, rather than near the top of the exhaust stroke - again basic, but still worth a check.

 

Regards.

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