Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
dvderlm

clunking when decelerate

Recommended Posts

dvderlm

Thought I was all done. Been driving gently around town, bedding in the new clutch. Head to open road and it's clunk, clunk over 30, when I take my foot off the gas 

 

No clunks going straight on at steady speed or when accelerating, but clunks when decelerate and these ceased when braking!

So the pads in calliper are straightening the brake disc?

Found a loose locking wheel nut offside front. They are a pain to make tight with the key. Checked and tightened all the nuts. 2 others were not fully torqued either...

Dirt on the hub? Sure I tightened them all once wheels were back on the floor after the clutch saga..

 

Noise improved a bit but still present.

.

Checked the calliper bolts, fine.. 

 

Spun the front nearside wheel by hand,  no rumble or grind. Tried the other 3 in turn, just brake noise from discs.

 

Grabbed front nearside wheel at 12 and 6 o clock and tried to rock, no play.

Tried 9 and 3 clock positions - it moves, but is that just the play in the steering?

Tried 7.30 and 1.30 positions - faint clunk.

So front wheel bearing.

 

Think it must be 24 years old.

Last time poor tracking was nearside bearing and I had to get new hub too.

 

Hubnut off and strut off, right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

are the inner cv bolts tight

 

if youre doing a wheel bearing ive used these kits before , just pop the shaft out and do it in situ...but wheel bearings tend to grumble /howl/hum ,not clonking 

 

did you set the car on its wheels with the driveshafts out? that will ruin the bearings

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23pc-Wheel-Bearing-Removal-Installation-Tool-Kit-Front-Universal-press-pull/253573175616?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151016114640%26meid%3D9d3d3d6cf80b41208fe309e2b336a2a9%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D253573175616&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dvderlm

You ride to the rescue again, stevo.

 

There was some wub-wub bearing noise before the big clutch job. Thought it was a rear, one had a bit of grumble
that went once tightened - the washer slid about a bit too freely.

Nope inner CV joint spline bolt all tight. I'm fairly paranoid about those.
And driveshafts were attached when lowered to ground, but I did lower the offside first.
Maybe the wheel was angled inwards when I "tightened" the wheel bolts.

 

So, I guess this process:
(put new hub -and new bearing- in freezer to make pushing in easier) 

  • hubnut off
  • undo inner CV joint spline bolts
  • lift/lower drive shaft and pull from hub towards middle line of car
  • extract outer circlip with hook/pliers/curse words
  • bearing puller behind bearing, bolt through driveshaft hole
  • tighten with big spanner( ideally airgun ) to extract bearing and hub
  • remove inner circlip

 

Refit (new bearing and new hub) in reverse order
fit new hubnut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

driveshaft off

 

big hammer and socket bash the flange from inside , falls out after a couple of whacks with the inner race attached (can grinder or bearing seperator this off and re use flange

 

circlips off , bearing tool kit and 32mm spanners to withdraw the outer race then push new bearing back in similar fashion

 

find the old inner race and position it so its supporting the new inner race then assemble the bearing tool to pull in the new drive flange making sure you support the inner flange at all times

 

or if theres a friendly garage they would likley swap the bearing over for £10/20 if you take the strut in 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dvderlm

Ta. Not looking forward to the remove the strut stress. Tie-rod end balljoint cone usually spins in the strut when loosen its nut making removal rather hard.

Might cut a slot in top of that thread, or remove tie-rod at steering rack end.

 

Unless it's actually a loose brake pad somehow. That would better match the clunk sound and that braking stops it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

yeah doesnt really jump out being a wheel bearing to me

 

in the past ive jacked up the front so both wheels are in the air and had a helper run it through the gears , might be obvious when running?  be carefull though

 

yes if you do have to take it apart the inner rod might be the best idea ..or use a jack and some wood to put some pressure on the joint when turning the nut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dvderlm

Tried waggling the brake caliper. Feels solid. Checked the slide pins are tight.

 

Well I'll find out on a longer faster drive if I really have sorted it.

 

Took the wheel off. Pads and shim-springs still in place.

No looseness at inner CV.

Spun the brake disc on the flange hub flat. Took off the brake disc. Think there used to be a slightly protruding bit of metal in the flange from the long since broken off locating screw. Checked wheel and flange and disc, all smooth.  Refitted brake disc with locating hole matching flange locating hole. Tightened all the nuts. Lowered to ground. Torqued up all 4 nuts.  

Went for a drive. No clunk when decelerate from 35mph.

 

New theory is when mounting the wheel I  rotated the brake disc, so the tiny bit of sticking out locating screw remnant was not lined up with the hole in the disc, so neither the disc nor the wheel were flat and true.

 

But I can still grab the wheel diagonally and make it rock slightly with faint clunk compared to nearside.

ARB nut is tight. Must check the lower ball joint and bolt in TCA.

 

Bearing puller arriving tomorrow. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

if you buy a front bearing make sure its a known good brand , did mine with cheapies once and had to redo it with skf ones after they failed

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dvderlm
3 hours ago, steveo3002 said:

if you buy a front bearing make sure its a known good brand , did mine with cheapies once and had to redo it with skf ones after they failed

 

Got flange/hub and bearing together.

Are Topran (Hans Priess?) good for bearings? (their plastic parts like wiper switches and boden cables seem good)

 

But no clunking when decelerate from 50mph today! 😊

 

Must have been the disc not flat against hub flange face.

 

 

Happy to travel to Kelham for the Polo social now.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

sounds like its fixed then

 

as for topran , agree ive not had anything terrible , but i think its a mixed bag of import stuff boxed up and distributed from germany vs made there 

 

i try to get skf or fag if possible

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dvderlm

Universal bearing pulling kit arrived. Glad I don't need to use it yet.

Wondering if I can retap the location screw hole in flange.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steveo3002

yeah you could drill it out or if you own a welder put a washer over the stub and a slug of weld , then weld a nut to the washer and unwind it 

 

its not really a problem as long as you line up the hole in the disc with it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines