Just tested. Ran engine for good 40 mnts.

 

Cold oil pressure 5 bar at idle aeoumd 920 rpm

 

Fully warm engine oil pressure 1.5 bar at idle and 3.5 bar at 2500 rpm. 

 

Oil pressure doesnt drop any further than 1.5 bar.

 

Tried wiggling hall sensor connector and engine died. But came back on again. Now i am gonna inspect the connection or should i not take any chances and buy a new distributor? 

 

Thanks

might be as well to find a used distributer...hows the wiring look , can get likley get a repair kit or new pins to make that good

Wiring looks fine, connector cleaned thoroughly.

 

Cant bet if its fixed, will try going to work today, 2 miles away, fingers crossed.

I found a new one for AER £25 on fleabay.

No connection to seller. No idea of quality.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-SEAT-AROSA-6H-1-0L-1-4L-CORDOBA-6K1-6K2-1-0L-1-4L-1-6L-igniton-Distributor/153060075573

Your oil pressure readings are fine. I got 3.5bar at 2500rpm this morning.

IF looks are anything to go by, for £25.00 it is a real bargain.

It is possible to fit a new Hall sender to your own distributor BUT it is a fiddly job, so £25.00 might be well spent on the new one.

 

Regards

Thanks for the link. I already ordered a brand new Mapco one, its part bosch made, for £35 off ebay direct from Mapco ebay store.

 

Now, what to care for when replacing distributor? I have no marking on the side of the head where distributor goes to align its position. Am i right to think that distributor assembly rotational position has to align with camshaft rotational position?

 

I will try finding haynes link for that.

 

Also i am still baffled why the faulty hall sensor was sending low oil pressure warning.

The Hall sender has nothing to do with oil pressure, but the symptoms that you describe (cutting out, waiting for it to cool down, then OK again for a while) are typical Hall sender symptoms.

 

Now that you know that the oil pressure is OK, the problem there is almost certainly down to the oil pressure switch.

Fitting a new switch is simple enough and will not let you down when you sell the car in a few weeks time - The last thing that you want is for the oil light/ buzzer to come 'on' when someone is test driving it!

 

When you fit the new distributor, take the cap off of the new one and swap the plug leads, one-at-a-time, making sure that they go into the same sockets on the new cap as those that they were in on the old one.

Make sure that the 'O' ring is in place on the outside of the new distributor where it fits into the cylinder head.

Note the position that the rotor arm is pointing on the old distributor BEFORE removing it from the cylinder head.

Apply a 'finger-full' of oil to the 'O' ring for easy fitting.

Push the new distributor into the head, with the rotor arm pointing in approximately the same direction as you noted on the old unit.

Push the distributor in by hand ONLY, turning the rotor arm if need be to make the drive engage correctly.

Set the position of the elongated holes in the mounting to approximately the same as the old one - or set it in the middle position in the slots.

When you are sure that the distributor is pushed all the way in, fit the plain washers and tighten the retaining nuts evenly.

Refit the cap and put in the king lead (central one.)

Plug in the low tension connector plug.

Job done.

Regards.

 

Brilliantly explained, thanks.

 

Pressure switch was the first thing changed. After thats oil sump and pickup cleaned. Problem was still there. Now that I have checked oil pressure is actually fine, I am sure something else is wrong. Engine was cutting off exacrly after oil pressure warning and not starting back again. Now that I am going to change the distributor to stop engine cutting off and starting back again, I am still confused y it was cutting off after oil pressure warning. If it was cutting off because of faulty hall sensor then y oil pressure warning ?

 

Thanks again for the instructions.

Have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/330460-timing-or-other-issues/?tab=comments#comment-2608765

I have put a document in there with how you check/adjust the timing 

Since dirtributer replaced the problem seems to have gone. No more oil pressure warning light or engine cutting out. But now engine is hesitating like hiccups or misfire. Its happening at idle or when picking up speed. Thers a significant loss of power too. Ignition leads and spark plugs are brand new only a month old. Is this something to do with distributor setting? I have installed the new one myself with precisely at the same position (rotational) last one was.

 

I have a vag code scanner but no ignition tester. 

 

Thanks.

You will need VCDS/Vagcom to put the ignition system into service mode, then you can adjust the timing, although you have put the new distributor on the same mark as the old one, slight internal variations will mean it needs to be properly setup