yeah so no use ,,unless newman or such would regrind it 

 

shame as its unmarked  

 

still need to play with the vac gauge on timing 

ran it up the road with the windband on , seems realistic on the road   12.5 at wot and 13.5 ish at a steady cruise...internet suggets its not far off for non lambda control

 

idle is still a problem , wants to idle between 13.7 and 13.4 which is roughly 2-3%...idles with a smooth exhaust note at the richer end , will still run below 2% but sounds terrible 

You don't have a catalytic convertor, so you don't need to try for max CO2 (lowest CO) at idle/cruise 14:7:1 from closed loop.

 

For 9.5:1 CR engine, if 13.4:1 AFR= 3%CO  gets through MOT with no excess HC (don't know what year you car is) at the idle no load test revs then you are done if consumption is not a worry.

http://www.safrtool.com/SAFR-AFR-values.asp

 

Below 2%CO  is possibly light detonation as the head temperature rises when lean, the fuel droplets form pockets. Richer and mixture is more homogenised throughout the cylinder.

https://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/182132-1.html

 

For the 11:1 CR tuned for economy(44mpg) but with power once over 3000rpm, I'm at ~14.4 idle @950rpm 15.3 cruise 12.6 WOT and can hit 11 at some power transitions with the Dellortos (pump jet volume).

 

Edited 25 October, 20187 yr by dvderlm

think it will always niggle me why it wont idle at a lower ratio , yes fine i dont have a cat but it could have and would have when new so should idle well below 1%

 

are you saying my on the move figures are reasonable ..or at least shouldnt melt anything ?  its fairly easy to alter it   

Those AFR numbers on the move sound fine to me for performance tune. 

So long as the plugs don't foul-up with soot at idle it should be fine.

 

 

Edited 28 October, 20187 yr by dvderlm

good to hear

 

maybe i will get another colourtune and see whats happening inside each cly when the idle becomes bad...might highlight a weak inj  

right not much of an update 

 

swapped back the cleaned and tested set of injectors , i can now keep it running into the 15s , tailpipe still sounds funny but it wouldnt run that lean before , so progress

 

one question , how stable is your afr readings ?   mines flickering a good 0.5 sometimes a bit more , unsure how steady it ought to be 

At 850 idle it varies up to 0.5. At 1100 idle it varies about 0.2. I suspect that's some carb barrel flow difference and I might rebalance with the bypass valves to stop the slight engine rock at the lower revs. It might be that my 2 and 3 have a bit less compression tb\n the other two cylinders. Cylinder 4 inlet has the brake servo take off and 1 runs coolest as first to get coolant from pump. Cylinder 4 trumpet has less free space to firewall, but shared low speed inlet on back of carb to jet chamber is surely unaffected.

 

Maybe as ignition point varies minutely as each piston's push is uneven despite flywheel trying to smooth it?

 

In motion at steady speed on completely flat road the AFR is fixed at 15.2. Slightest slope up or down and it will move- up gentle slope 14.7, up steeper towards 13.8 (up)  or 16.4 (down). Start accelerating gently 13.5, Accelerate hard 12.8 or lower.

Drive like a dick #retrorides 11 (pump jet becomes power jet on the turbo carb?). Decelerate after that can touch 10.9 then 18 at no load.

hmmm so 0.5 isnt awefull , although maybe fuel inj ought to be a little more stable when its working right ?  i get the odd flicker 0.8 or so

 

 was wondering if the fluctuation was pointing at an uneven burn or misfire ( spose i could pull a plug lead to see what that displays ) 

only completely stable closed loop surely?

right tried my other afm now ive got the wideband on

 

idles into the 15-16s if need be ...still sounds funny 

 

at 50-60mph steady cruise im seeing 14.3  , 70mph 14.7   , wot 13.5 ish     ...hows that sound ?

 

fitted an original fuel pump its almost silent vs the ebay one 

I'd expect 12.8 to 13.2 at WOT. Does it sound sharp or just loud?

14.7 is usually quite. responsive (though makes most CO2 which is why cat cars use it.

tried plugs , known good coil and checked the tb bolts seal today ...no more progress

For WOT 13.5 sounds okay for 9.5:1 CR older car.

https://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/what-is-the-proper-air-fuel-ratio

 

 

got myself a tester like the above now ....seems to work ok and goes back to 0 when the tailpipe sniffer is removed 

 

now the confusing thing lol....seems to idle nice when reading 1% ish on the co meter , but the afr chart numbers dont correspond 

 

will do some more fiddling when its dry out 

Can you read the other gases with the red gas analyzer? High HC confuses lambda probes. Often false lean reading. 

Edited 26 November, 20187 yr by dvderlm

no just co 

*might*   be getting somewhere

 

had both the wideband and snap on tester on it  , while adjusting things and waiting for the readings to settle i was poking around in the engine bay on connections etc , i happend to wiggle the fuel injectors , now its running smoothly , tailpipe sounds normal at 14.7-1  , afm is close to stock settings

 

so i dunno , looks like an inj o ring not seated , its had 3 sets in while ive been messing , plus manifold off at least twice so id have thought id manange to get it right at least one of those times lol  , ordered some genuine bosch seals but im inlcined to leave it be for now

 

sorn now so cant road test    

Where you getring them from? Wouldnt mind a few sets myself

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BOSCH-Fuel-Injector-Rubber-Seal-O-Ring-SET-OF-4/283150972012?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

came in bosch bags 

 

rockauto also has affordable rebuild kits that are name brand...i looked up mk2 golf gti sinse they dont list polos

Mk2 Polo warning lights and gauges not working - Page 2 - ICE, Electrical and Lighting - Club Polo

This thread is worth visiting if you have rich running issues.