Can anyone suggest an easy to follow link that trouble shoots and fault finds the Mk2 ignition? I have installed the Saab 9-3 distributor cap, made temporary adapters for the HT leads from the plug in to the VW pin type and wired in the ignition amplifier to the hall plug and coil. So I could do with a step by step link that allows me to find where I have gone wrong or what is at fault. I have got the test plugs on top of the spark plugs so I can see if they are firing. This is the last step to getting the engine into the car because I want to make sure it runs with a carburetor on it first. One thing I'm not sure about is whether the rotor arm is correct for the Saab distributor cap. In the mean time I'm going to look at the Haynes manual to see if that's any help. Thanks for looking.

I dont have a link but I always look at things at a simple level.

Is the resistance of the primary circuit in the coil within specification.

Secondly, is the resistance of the secondary circuit within spec..

 

Only thing you can get wrong really is firing order.

 

Rotor arm points to cylinder 1 indent at TDC.

It is then 1-3-4-2 anti-clockwise looking the cap end's 90 degree sockets.

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/992954-beru-rotor-distributor

beru evl088

 

is for Saab 99, 900 and VAG cars with pin drive camshaft. 030905225C

 

older slot drive camshaft needs EVL134 as has larger hole.

 

That is for Saab 9-3 too

https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/7447691-beru-rotor-distributor

 

 

Are they the same height?

Measure how deep tbe pins are in tbe cap?

 

Edited 15 September, 20188 yr by dvderlm

Thanks guys. This really helps. I have read the Haynes manual today and that is a good start to test if the system is turning the coil on and off as it should. It seems now that a wasted spark system is the way to go, sooner rather than later and there is less to go wrong, plus I end up having fully programmable timing and sequential injection. Now I want to design a suitable way to get the cam sensor to work. I think cutting down a distributor body would create more difficulties in the end instead of fabricating a plug where the distributor normally sits that has a hole in it for the cam sensor. In the "pin" hole at the end of the cam, I have a 8mm diameter magnet to fit into it. Oil control will have to be the same as it would be for the distributor. Problems that I may have is oil affecting the sensor, oil working its way past the sensor and the magnet working loose from the end of the cam. The two existing distributor bolts would hold the plug in but be on a 360 degree flange instead which would allow a further seal to "catch" any oil that gets past the normal O ring.

With regards to the rotor arm, if it hasn't shattered the distributor cap, then it will probably work, even if it doesn't work all that efficiently.

The only caveat being that (if it has one) the built in resistor needs to be intact. 

Remember that a resistor will cut down CURRENT. What it won't do, is cut down VOLTAGE, so the voltage at the plug leads will be the same as if there was no resistor.

Remember too that the rotor arm does not (or should not) touch the cap segments - the spark jumps the gap between rotor and segments. It is for this reason that I say, if the rotor hasn't shattered the cap it will work - the spark jumping the gap.

The gap that the spark would have trouble in jumping, would be if a rotor arm resistor did not have continuity.

 

Regards

Yes, thanks. I ordered a Saab specific rotor arm so it should be correct. The Haynes manual is quite good for the testing the hall effect and the amplifier so hopefully I will know this coming week if they work. One intriguing thing I read in the Haynes was that the Formel E had some form of gear position indication so I am going to investigate that as a possible input into the ECU for boost control. It may simply be as with a lot of manual cars these days, an indication to change gear. 

I remember that shift light and MPG indicator in a 1093cc Formel E with 3+E gearbox. The MPG display only worked in top gear, but it would cruise at indicated 80mph and still be at 45 to 50mpg. Think the MPG used manifold vacuum, I assume the

shift indicator did too. Something like "Change up you've reached low vacuum over 2000rpm."

 

Found it

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_37.PDF

(for Passat not Polo, surely same rules as same atmosphere)

Below 0.7bar (20inHg) of vacuum and over 1900rpm you get a light to shift up.

Relay 171919091A to control it.

 

Can't see it working with boost.

 

Oh, but the pressure/vacuum switch might 171919825 ? .it looks adjustable! 

Edited 16 September, 20188 yr by dvderlm