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Engine idles down and cuts out


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Abd 3f injection. 

 

Start the car and runs fine for 3 or 4 min then idles low and cuts out, wont repond to throttle when chugging and ramind this way on restart unless left 

 

Any ideas 

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  • kiran_182

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  • dvderlm

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steveo3002

id suggest you get the diag leads and vcds and have a look for fault codes , can also read a few live data feeds like temp /tps/lambda etc

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Hall sender failure is a bit like that. Cuts out randomly, but will start again once cooled down.

 

But the slowing idle is an odd one. Is it smooth or lumpy idle?

If smooth - fuel delivery, otherwise electrical issue in my experience.

 

 

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As suggested above, my last lambda resulted in similar symptoms of the idle degrading after a few minutes as it all starts to warm up. Can always test it, multimeter readings are deffinately on here somewhere. Same for the temp sensor, theres a range of resistance or voltage readings over a range of temperatures. Mine idled like crap as the ECU began using the faulty sensors signal.

 

More recently had a worsening fuel leak on one of the rubber pipes which in the beginning I'd get a few miles then it would start chugging then eventually cut out, throttle would do nothing to help obviously. The car was said to be getting a little filler neck rot on the last mot so fuel smell wasn't surprising untill it stank, by that point it wouldn't run at all though, been in the garage waiting for time to put the fuel tank in but fixed the leak and it runs pretty damn well now.

 

Goodluck

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steveo3002

you can unplug the o2 to prove it...should run well without one 

 

also it wont come into play until the engine is warm ...

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Yeah ive already wound the idle out advanced the dizzy and to see what happens. Used all my little tricks and not happy with running it this way

Edited by kiran_182
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Abd head and block on gt injection 

 

Put the obd on.amd got 5 codes

• Intake air temp sensor - no signal

• Engine coolent temp sensor - open / short

• potentiometer for air flow meter - no signal 

• oxygen sensor - no signal 

• throttle position sensor - no signal 

 

I recal un plugging somemof these when testing so they may not be current 

 

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Got the multimeter out and tested reistance on the loom 

 

Ecu connector ports, resistance ohms 
1 2.0
2 0.8
3 0.8
4 blank
5 blank
6 0.8
7 blank
8 0.6
9 0.8
10 0.6
11 0.6
12 0.6
13 2.7
14 0.8
15 blank
16 blank
17 0.6
18 0.7
19 2.4
20 no signal - later found to be obd
21 0.7
22 blank
23 0.6
24 0.6
25 0.6

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Got a timing light on it today. started off running ok but needed full advance could still hear it fighting to run after a min or two it idled down and chugged with the light going out for long periods at a time 

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Got a few hours on it today. altered the timing mark, with the cam timed the crank mark is just under the right tab

 

Got thw car to run fairly well for 20 odd min but once hot it splutterd and struggled to restart, would missfire when you turn ignition on, before you try crank

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Not quite sewing machine sound is it. More like a hay thresher.

 

You were losing sparks, if you mean the timing light was not flashing in synch with cylinder 1 when it was 'chugging'.

 

 

 

 

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The first vid i got was more sewing maching, this is idle screw wound out and full advance to run with trottle to start 

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Sure, but it should not need that much advance.

Did you check the fuel pump relay?

 

My bet is Hall sender. The rest of the ignition technology is solid-state and away from engine heat/oil.

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