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rusty

I've just gone to change the brake fluid on my AEX 6n, did both rears fine but got to the front and it looks like someone has taken a hacksaw to the bleeder screw?

Can't get a grip on it at all with moles, or by heating and bashing on a smaller socket. Its seized in pretty tight anyway. 

As it had got dark i tried continuing the change by taking the brake hoses off the calipers and just letting the fluid run clean, then tightening again. This was probably a stupid move as the brakes have basically lost all power, only biting the tiniest bit when the pedal's on the floor 😞

 

Is there any way to do this? Don't want to take the calipers off as the rubber boot on the bolts is also missing, ie a horrible, rusty, dirty job.

Cheers

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nige8021

If bashing a smaller socket onto it hasn't worked, the next option would be to try an easy-out but as the socket didn't work it's unlikely the easy-out would have any better luck, so then your into drilling the thing out and re-tapping the threads 

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steveo3002

sounds like you need some new parts

 

if you have access to a welder it often helps by welding  a nut over the broken part...the extreme heat helps and the nut gives you something to turn

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Yeti

I'd be thinking it's time for a new/second hand caliper. You can take it off the car by undoing the carrier from the wheel hub, then attack it on the bench, or just get a second hand caliper that's got the carrier still attached

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rusty

Uh oh that’s what I feared you’d say.

Are the 6n2 calipers the same as 6n1? There’s masses of used ones going cheap online but can hardly find any 6n ones.

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caretakerplus

If you ever use 'easy-outs' make sure that they are really good quality ones - the cheap ones are certainly very hard BUT they are also very brittle, so if you manage to break one of those (not too difficult) you are really in trouble, as a drill won't touch it.

 

Regards

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rusty
22 minutes ago, caretakerplus said:

If you ever use 'easy-outs' make sure that they are really good quality ones - the cheap ones are certainly very hard BUT they are also very brittle, so if you manage to break one of those (not too difficult) you are really in trouble, as a drill won't touch it.

 

Regards

Too late! 

Easy outs broke as soon as they bit, avoid screwfixes ones!

 

I eventually got the bleeders off both brakes by getting the caliper off the car, heating with a blowtorch for like 15 minutes then covering the join in plusgas and then cold, wet paper towel. Then spent about an hour fighting with them in a vice. Both bleeders replaced with new ones for a couple of quid off eBay.

The second one was much easier after I worked out the technique!

 

Cheers guys for your help

 

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caretakerplus

Glad that you have been able to remove the bleed nipples.

 

I am a bit concerned as to what heating the calipers for 15 minutes with a blow torch might have done to the seals - They may well be fluid-tight at the moment, but who is to say that they will remain flexible in the future?

 

Regards

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rusty
10 minutes ago, caretakerplus said:

Glad that you have been able to remove the bleed nipples.

 

I am a bit concerned as to what heating the calipers for 15 minutes with a blow torch might have done to the seals - They may well be fluid-tight at the moment, but who is to say that they will remain flexible in the future?

 

Regards

15 might be an exaggeration.

I did think of that, the heat was mostly applied to the bleeder screw itself. The rest of the caliper seemed to sink the heat quite well and didn’t get all that hot.

 

I thought brakes were designed to work at pretty high temperatures anyway? 

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