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choke cable broken

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Grr, found out why it is hard to start the engine when cold.

Tried adjusting the carb end of the choke cable for tension.

DHLA don't have a choke flap to impede flow. They have a mini carb with its own jet feeding two cylinders. Operating the mechanism pulls two tiny valves open to let fuel and air  pass.

I could see the lever was not moving very far. Here's why.

 

Choke handle in

WIN_20190417_08_43_37_Pro.thumb.jpg.3d670c26e9b7ed5089b8f9e88baf8503.jpg

 

choke handle out

WIN_20190417_08_43_58_Pro.thumb.jpg.5306b123706afae9da4adc6751dbdf2c.jpg

 

It's only moving the cable outer closer.

 

Wondering if I can glue or crimp it?

Think it's new cable time.

 

 

 

 

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is it long on a lhd ?  ive got a proper vw that operates the dash light , would donate it but suspect its too short

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With a Weber it needs 4 feet of cable. With the dellos about 30 inches.

Thanks for the offer. No worries - found one in my box of bits from some Japanese car, with a microswitch.

It's got bullet connectors, so I'll have to bodge something to connect to the 2pin socket with red/brown and brown wire (from reading Haynes)

 

What does that connector look like?

 

Never had a choke light as the original Pierburg was autochoke.

But there looks to be an LED next to the |/| symbol.

 

One day I might get around to fitting a microswitch to the handbrake. That's not worked since I replaced the fuel tank and brake cables and lever with a fairly chunky Golf item.

It's easy to tell if I've left it on.

 

I never partially apply it. It'll just burn the shoes off, then the car will run away down a hill when your mate fetches something from the car and knocks the gear lever into neutral.

But that's another story.

 

and its missing the knob

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191711503A the knob part number.

1H0711558 and the required clip!

 

Edited by dvderlm

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