I've done the rear drum to disc conversion, ive bleeded the brakes and got the air bubbles out. one of the air bubbles was about 3 inch long 🙂

 

only thing is ive been pushing on the brake pedal and can't get the brakes to compress on the disc. really didnt see any movement at all. didnt wanna push to hard, got car on stands.

 

im guessing i need to turn on the car to get the vacuum working which will multiply the force?

 

anyone has similar issue?  the piston caliper clamp quite easly pushed the pistons in but had to use a ratchet bar.

Really all the bubbles gone? Did you have old darker fluid so you could see when fresh fluid arrived?

 

Did you use a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder or just brake pedal and caliper piston?

 

master cylinder to slave cylinder dimensions correct?

 

 

I had a caliper on  Skoda that I screwed the piston in so it was not true in its bore and wouldn't move. Nearly sent it to BCS (munt?)

but found a replacement pattern part. This was coincidental with ABS control unit failure.

use about a litre, half on each side for bleeding. used standard bleed kit with no return valve.

will get car off stands,  turn car on n see what happens.

 

the pistons are just stiff to go in and out obviously. not sure if it's supposed to be like that.

 

 

Did you just push the pistons back into the calipers ? as they need to rotated as you retract them 

i used a piston clamp tool to rotate/push the pistons back into the caliper so i had room in there to install the pads.

ahh feel abit foolish now.

 

i got a 1.5 metre bar to push down on break pedal while i use my foot on a ratchet bar to turn rear wheel and the brakes were working.

 

the brake pads are shaped funny/ curved up at the edges so it looks like the are 2mm away from disc but when you look over them they were fully flat on the disc through the middle of the pad.

 

now i have another problem lol 🙂    one of the wheels is hard to turn. does turn but can feel brake rubbing.

 

when brake fluid gets hot would it soften the rubber around the piston to allow better retraction?

 

p.s i can push the car

 

 

Doubt the rubber seal has any effect on piston moving freely.

 

If pads are stuck hard to the disc fluid might not be returning to the reservoir though master cylinder compensating port.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Stuck-Brake-and-No-Brake-Common-Problems-Encountered-When-Replacing-Brake-Master-Cylinder

 

But you can turn the wheel. Did you copperslip  the back of pad? That can help it disengage from disc as piston pressure eases.

Edited 15 May, 20197 yr by dvderlm

maybe car needs to be running for it all to work properly

Well pads need to bed  in so go gently for first  100 miles. You'll soon notice if that wheel is dragging from smell, noise, heat of wheel.

hmm well i could push car so will see like you said.

 

by doing the 6n1 rear disc conversion ive noticed pedal travel instantly was more. Felt wierd.

 

will do some research on this. sure nearly everyone noticed this.

Rear black brakes discs are alot hotter than the front discs, is that normal?

The new rear discs look super clean, the brakes see to have fulled removed black paint

The new front discs dont look as clean, can still see the brake line marks.