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gjaf

Long startup - error codes P2102, P0243, P0489

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gjaf

Hi, I own a 2009 9n3 1.4tdi 70 with what I’m pretty sure is a BWB engine. I was driving recently when I thought the car went into limp mode. I switched the engine off and then tried to turn back on again, but it turned over for ages before starting and the engine warning light came on. I thought the issue might be the anti stutter valve, so I took it off and cleaned it, using the access to partly clean the EGR while I was at it.  While both seemed to be in need of a clean, this didn’t solve the problem, so I got the error codes read and among five faults was the cam position sensor. I’ve replaced the sensor and the error code related to that is now cleared, but I’m still left with three errors and the long turnover before starting. The error codes are:

P2102: throttle actuator control motor- circuit low 

P0243: turbo watergate solenoid A

P0489: EGR control circuit low

 

These can be cleared while the engine is on, but reappear at every start. Given the long turnover, I’ve been fighting a chronically low battery and haven’t been able to do any long or high speed runs since cleaning the anti-stutter and EGR.

 

I’ve resigned myself to selling, but would prefer to get the faults cleared before attempting to. Any words of wisdom?

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vwfan3

May be an idea to clean the turbo inners.

What is the mileage?

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gjaf

Thanks for the suggestion - mileage is roughly 95k.

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gjaf

Turns out fuse F14 had blown - i’ve replaced it, but now the car starts, but only when I push in the throttle but dies immediately. I now get no fault codes, but if I take out fuse F14, it’ll start but all the error codes return. Any suggestions would be really helpful!

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nige8021

F14 is the supply for the turbo actuator N75 valve and the heater element in the crankcase breather pipe, it wouldn't be the first time the breather heater element had gone short circuit so blowing the fuse

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gjaf

Following some more reading, I’m wondering if the position of the throttle actuator needs resetting or if I’ve not cleaned it sufficiently to stop it sticking. Would that be possible, and if so, any suggestions how I fix this? 

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nige8021

To do the correct Throttle body adaption, you will need a full version of VCDS, if when you say you cleaned it, did you move the butterfly ? as this can snap a gear in the mechanism and then the only option is a replacement TB

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vwfan3
11 hours ago, nige8021 said:

......... did you move the butterfly ? as this can snap a gear in the mechanism 

Nigel, does this only happen with the VDO throttle bodies OR all of them ???

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gjaf

It is the throttle actuator (Siemens VDO) that I took out and cleaned - don’t think I moved it, if I did it was very gently. Given that I’m getting an error where the car starts with difficulty and immediately dies with fuse F14 in and registers no error codes, but starts with difficulty and keeps running with F14 out, I’m wondering if I could try starting with the fuse in, but the throttle actuator unplugged in order to isolate the error to just the throttle actuator (I know I’d get a P2100 error because the circuit would be open, but if everything else was working okay, I’d only expect this error). Interestingly I found some great strip down info and gear replacement kits for the throttle actuator, so I’d be pretty confident about checking it fully and replacing the gears if necessary. Got a suspicion it’s something other than the throttle actuator or as well as it though...

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gjaf

Just discovered a hole in my #2 vacuum pipe. Would that be the problem? throttle actuator seems to be working AOK!

D1D9573B-97A0-4361-AC84-C85691ACB96C.jpeg

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gjaf

Temporarily fixed this hole, but still no luck - starts but stalls immediately with fuse F14 in with no apparent error codes. Despite the battery previously having died from all the attempted starts, I don’t think it’s the immobiliser (although all the advice online for this fault says it’s this) - there’s no key icon on the dash when I try to start. Feels like I’m running into a dead end and wonder if it’s worth disconnecting and reconnecting the battery (potential fix for immobiliser). Would it be worth putting the old cam sensor back on to see if the new one’s bad / incompatible?

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