Go up a voltage rating to potentially get choice of some physically slightly bigger ones, 25V gives a bit more headroom too.

Hold fire if it's not tomorrow-urgent, I may well have some suitable ones I could post over. Day off tomorrow so can have a look.

54 minutes ago, Pete1 said:

Yes.

Measure physical dimensions including space between leads/pads, and choose ones that are going to fit without too much bodgery.

If you're curious about how well/sick the old ones were, message me about sending them for testing.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/0571757

20 minutes ago, Pete1 said:

Go up a voltage rating to potentially get choice of some physically slightly bigger ones, 25V gives a bit more headroom too.

Hold fire if it's not tomorrow-urgent, I may well have some suitable ones I could post over. Day off tomorrow so can have a look.

Yes, check for me please. I was hoping to do the job at the weekend.

Found a selection of a few options for you.

All are around 11mm tall. There are some 47uF 50V 105°C rated ones that are about 6mm diameter, 2.5mm lead pitch. There are some 100uf 35V , same temp rating same physical dims. Also found some 100uF 50v that are 8mm dia and 3.5mm lead pitch that may fit existing holes easier for the 100uF 'full metal jacket' one. (Must admit, those are unfamiliar in appearance, looking very olde-worlde).

What value is this one, in the red circle, I didn't spot it earlier?:

Edited 11 June, 20251 yr by Pete1

3 hours ago, Pete1 said:

Found a selection of a few options for you.

All are around 11mm tall. There are some 47uF 50V 105°C rated ones that are about 6mm diameter, 2.5mm lead pitch. There are some 100uf 35V , same temp rating same physical dims. Also found some 100uF 50v that are 8mm dia and 3.5mm lead pitch that may fit existing holes easier for the 100uF 'full metal jacket' one. (Must admit, those are unfamiliar in appearance, looking very olde-worlde).

What value is this one, in the red circle, I didn't spot it earlier?:

I don't really know what is and isn't suitable, but if you think they will be my best bet then i'll have them. Just give me what you think will suit.

I don't know the size of the circled one. It's perilously close to other things so i'll leave it for now.

What will the components i need cost me? I have paypal.

Will message you after lunch.

Just cover the postage really

The wire pointed to by the driver is a cluster earth, mine has 2Mohm to earth. This should be tested!

There's a few more pics to upload, but the upload limit is dropping lower every time. Can this be sorted?

So spent hours trying to find the fault that was causing the high resistance to earth on bn/we wire t28/2, never found it. The wire enters the main dash loom going to the bulkhead sockets, it's not possible to test reliably. I may have found it at the sockets, or it may have been a circuit backfeeding through something else. Without removing the dash you can't be sure.

I changed the caps on the cluster board and, following petes advice, just redoldered the legs on the existing regulator. It's important to note, the cluster board has to have the regulator heat sink bolted through the board for it to power up out of its housing, see photo.

The voltages I got from the regulator were satisfactory, see the diagram for what ought to be there. There is an engine bay factory earth crimping point buried in the loom behind the digifant unit, about 6" before the bulkhead sockets in the scuttle sump. This needs redoing as a matter of ticking all the boxes. I cut the t28/2 wire behind the cluster and grounded it locally, it was the only option left.

The temperature gauge is now reading much better, however the big shock is that the tickover is now completely stable and it doesn't run very rich when it's stone cold any more. There is no hunting, no stalling, and the idle is perfect. This means that the digifant is affected adversely by the loss of a clean earth on this t28/2 at the cluster.

Anyone with a GT needs to look at redoing this before it causes any hassle.

Won't have a full picture of how much improvement in running I've got until its been driven to work and back for a couple of days. About 50% of the 'digilag' has gone away at low rpm too, it used to be sluggish up to 1500rpm but not any longer.

It's a completely different car. Fantastic cold running mixture compared to what it was, better idle, and much improved torque in 5th <1800rpm. This is probably the mystery running fault on GTs that caused others to get rid of Digifant completely.

Now running worse following the temperature light malfunction. Trying to get hold of another board but they are like hens teeth, ebay sellers list them but have no stock.