Hi all,

I have a 1.9tdi estate 2001 that was purchased as a temporary car but four years later and I realize I cant let it go!

Unfortunately it has a significant ticking from the top of the engine it is worse when the engine is cold but still present when up to temperature, I am guessing this due to a sticking cam follower, I have tried a couple of cans of "snake oil" and wasted my money, should have known better but I guess it was wishful thinking

So my question is - do I change just the followers or would it be wise to change the camshaft at the same time, is there any other works that should be carried out at the time?

There are many suppliers for parts and I would be grateful of for recommendations of suppliers or parts and makers

 

With many thanks in anticipation.

 

 

Cambelt, tensioner and waterpump normally worth doing while you are there.

- sometimes sold as a complete kit.

(maybe the 6pk auxiliary belt if it looks at all cracked - it drives power steering pump too I think)

New camshaft only if it is not straight or lobes really worn and I reckon that would be rare on a diesel, even with turbo as they don't rev high. I assume in your ownership oil service intervals

and oil spec observed. (not used standard oil on the longlife change program, but I think that's more for the turbo bearings). 

I know of a 1.9tdi (from 2002 so pre-pd) with over 260,000 miles on original engine and turbo only had a new alternator and aircon condenser (and a 750,000+ mile tdi taxi).

 

I have not done a diesel engine head, but TPS provide VW Original parts usually below dealer prices.

Not had issues with INA or FAG aftermarket head stuff myself.

 

Dead certain it is a cam follower?

(I found a pulley keyway on a dead petrol Lupo was the weak point).

 

 

 

Edited 23 July, 20197 yr by dvderlm

Many thanks for taking the trouble to reply so quickly 

you have  given me the confidence to address my rattling cam followers, I had visions of one job leading to another and it all getting out of hand!

when I purchased this car the previous servicing was very sketchy and I think it had regular oil changes with a 10/40 grade oil, I instantly had the cam belt changed along with all bearings, tensioner, pump and belt etc, the oil has been flushed and changed twice in less than 8000 miles so cam followers perhaps in September

Can I just ask -- in your opinion should I leave this to a professional mechanic or try myself having only average experience?

I have also had the brakes fully serviced, replacement pads, shoes, discs, fluid and pipes etc, shock absorbers and springs , a couple of ball joints , tyres all round and that's just the mechanical bits, I do tend to over service!

 

Thanks again for your opinions 

Check if you have a mechanic that will finish the job with parts you supply, in case you get stuck.

 

I've not done (I have solid followers) but I understand the hydraulic followers can be cleaned. I wonder if flushing has moved some crud where it does not belong so one or more is not pumping up hard.

might be worth a second opinion , some of the tdi engines wear the cams too

This is from the dealer manual

 

Test sequence

‒ Start engine and run until engine oil temperature is min. 80 °C.

‒ Increase engine speed to about 2500 rpm for approx. 2 minutes.

If the hydraulic tappets are still noisy, locate defective tappets as follows:

Engine codes AGP, AQM, AYQ

‒ Remove intake manifold upper part.

Engine codes AGR, ALH, ASV

‒ Remove connecting pipe between charge air cooler and intake manifold/pressure hose.

Continued for all engine codes

‒ Remove cylinder head cover.

‒ Rotate crankshaft clockwise, until cam of the tappet to be checked is pointing upwards.

‒ Determine play between cam and bucket tappet.

‒ If the play is in excess of 0.1 mm, renew bucket tappet. If the play is less than 0.1 mm or no play, proceed with check as follows:

‒ → Press tappet down with a wooden or plastic wedge. If free travel in excess of 1 mm is felt before tappet contacts valve, renew
tappet.

Note:

After installing new tappets the engine must not be started for approx. 30 minutes. Hydraulic compensation elements must settle (otherwise valves will strike pistons).

Quote

 

thanks for the messages, 

I think its good advise to leave to a mechanic and I have no doubt this requires experience and some know how

It is going to have to wait until September but will update with news as it might help someone else

I didn't realize these engines were capable of such high mileage , no aspirations to drive a taxi but very impressed at such durability, does anyone know if camshaft wear is common or are there perhaps other common problems with the 1.9ti engine?

 

Thanks to all 

1 hour ago, nige8021 said:

This is from the dealer manual

 

Test sequence

‒ Start engine and run until engine oil temperature is min. 80 °C.

‒ Increase engine speed to about 2500 rpm for approx. 2 minutes.

If the hydraulic tappets are still noisy, locate defective tappets as follows:

Engine codes AGP, AQM, AYQ

‒ Remove intake manifold upper part.

Engine codes AGR, ALH, ASV

‒ Remove connecting pipe between charge air cooler and intake manifold/pressure hose.

Continued for all engine codes

‒ Remove cylinder head cover.

‒ Rotate crankshaft clockwise, until cam of the tappet to be checked is pointing upwards.

‒ Determine play between cam and bucket tappet.

‒ If the play is in excess of 0.1 mm, renew bucket tappet. If the play is less than 0.1 mm or no play, proceed with check as follows:

‒ → Press tappet down with a wooden or plastic wedge. If free travel in excess of 1 mm is felt before tappet contacts valve, renew
tappet.

Note:

After installing new tappets the engine must not be started for approx. 30 minutes. Hydraulic compensation elements must settle (otherwise valves will strike pistons).

This is really useful information, thank you very much and apreciated

For anyone following the hydraulic tappet check above, it is a good idea, whilst the cam is pointing away from the tappet, to check the cam itself - Check for any flaking of the metal on the nose (pointed part) of each cam.

If any one cam has suffered flaking, then a new camshaft needs to be fitted.

The cam profiles should all be the same - a visual check is normally sufficient for this, as it is not practical to try and measure the cams with the camshaft in situ.

 

Regards

Again great advice and recieved with many thanks