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Mooresy

1.0 Liter R Reg Engine AER wont start/run

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Mooresy

Hello All,
I have a 98' SEAT Arosa 1.0 with engine code AER. with 35,000 miles on the clock (sorry kind of a cut down Polo really)  It was a great runner until it was parked up at the side of the house 2 years and 8 months ago. I started it every 6 months or so and ran it for a while with no problems. The Saturday before last I decided to get it back on the road so jump started it and it started first time and settled down to tick over nicely for 20 mins or so until I turned it off. As the battery was knackered I ordered a new one that week (reasonable quality VARTA). This was fitted this weekend, unfortunately when I came to start it it was running really bad. like it was only on 3 cylinders. Instead of persisting I decided that the fuel was most probably past it, so I got hold of a new fuel filter, drained the tank and filled up with fresh fuel. The old fuel was the colour of Whiskey so it wasn't good.
No change. still very lumpy. Checked the Dizy and all HT connections etc, Nothing obviously loose etc. Tried unplugging cylinder 1, this made no difference to the running, 2 and 3 caused the engine to stall, 4 also made no difference. All HT's seems to be arcing away strongly to the metal shrouds on all cylinders. Checked the plugs for damage and cleaned (looked really good actually) however, 1 and 4 were wet. Didn't have any spare plugs or leads so sprayed the whole area in WD40 to see what happened. started and ran beautifully, 5 mins then reverted to running badly.Tried the spay again, but still ran badly.
Decided to compression test it just to clear up any concern about valves. Did this with a cheap AM-Tech unit which I know from testing my Ghia is not correct and it gave 85 psi across all cylinders which is very low, but that's the crappy gauge. the important thing was they were all identical. Checked the connections to the injectors for security etc. Tried to start again, but now would not start at all. Just the odd fire and backfire through the throttle. Checked the dizzy again and found it to be cracked. GREAT. ordered a new on. This arrived today. Fitted it, still the same. Wont start. Checked the leads and coil with my timing strobe and there is power traveling down the leads from the dizzy, so I guess the coil, dizzy and cap are OK, so maybe just the connections to the plugs and/or the plugs or something fuel related?

Any pointers/experience would be much appreciated.

This was supposed to be a cheap recommissioning as it also needs an exhaust and MOT. I really don't want to throw money at it. Shame really as its in really good nick, Money so far - Battery £45.00, Fuel filter £7.50, Fuel 25.00, Dizzy and Rotor £15.00 = £92.00. It soon mounds up.

Update, Just removed all the plugs and checked them for firing. They are all sparking, how well I am unsure but there is a blue spark present for all of them. All of the plugs except one from number 2 cylinder were wet and smelled of fuel. Number two is the one that is firing now and then, so was dry and sooty. So, fuel is present along with a spark, Cant think what I'm missing?

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dvderlm

Welcome. 

 

I assume distributor cap not distributor unit was cracked...

If you rotated dizzy unit it could simply be wrong timing.

 

Why did cap crack?

Is the rotor arm damaged?

 

Edited by dvderlm

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Mooresy

Hello and thanks,

Yes, the dizzy cap was found to be cracked.

Rotor arm fine.

Dizzy was the OE Magneti Marelli dated 1997 so original to the car. The actual distributor body was not moved and probably has not moved in 22 years. Still bolted up tight. Cap may have cracked due to age and maybe disturbing it to remove and re-attach, I guess it happens.

Ordered a code reader to see whats going on as my old school ways don't work on 'modern' stuff, I'll save them for may Ghia.

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Yeti

Check the throttle body is actuating. I think it's a fly by wire on these (sensor and a stepper motor, which might need its base values resetting to idle OK, but should still run). If you put the key on the second click, you should hear it buzz, then see if it moves with the pedal.

 

The old fuel won't help, but I would be suprised if it was just that stopping it. 

 

I know its no-ones favourite option, but I'd be tempted to give it a quick whiff of easy start in the hope the engine gets going enough to give the ECU some useful numbers to work with. 

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