Looking at the pic.

Is that the water pipe to water pump housing gasket that is leaking?

 

If so you need a N902 600 01 o-ring.

Edited 11 March, 20206 yr by dvderlm

Cool. Thank you. 

So i did the exhaust manifold gasket today, as there was smoke coming from around there. Cleaned the exhaust manifold, made sure it was all tight. Downpipe clamp was not even finger tight, is now. Fired up, still has smoke/vapour coming from around there. Also, engine is REALLY rattly compared to how it was before all this. 

18 hours ago, Eviljohn said:

So i did the exhaust manifold gasket today, as there was smoke coming from around there. Cleaned the exhaust manifold, made sure it was all tight. Downpipe clamp was not even finger tight, is now. Fired up, still has smoke/vapour coming from around there. Also, engine is REALLY rattly compared to how it was before all this. 

 

Are you 100% that much of the smoke/vapour isn't coming from fluids burning off the exhaust? Coolant will do that and any oil on your pipes will take quite a while to fully smoke off if you're only running the engine for short periods. Your original problem involved quite an explosion of oil all over the place - anything ingrained in the exhaust steel could take a bit to burn.

 

As for the rattle personally i'd concentrate on making sure everything is tight and get the fundamentals fixed properly - sounds can be misleading and turn into a rabbit chase. Maybe a video would help?

 

 

id expect it to rattle if it ran with no oil in it

 

throw another engine at it..might be cheaper and quicker

 

Rattly sounding engine could potentially be timing being waaay out from what i've read. 

Also, rattly sound has only been since i've removed and replaced dizzy and components. 

As far as i can make out, the smoke/vapour is only coming from the front of the engine. I can't make out anything from the back of the engine. Someone else told me that even a little oil can cause a fair bit of smoke.

Inside exhaust manifold was pretty boggin. 

I'll bear new(er) engine in mind. Don't strictly need it to be quicker but i wouldn't turn it down, budget willing! 

I will try and get some video evidence if i get chance to get under it again soon.

Thanks dudes. Keep safe.

 

Okay, if i try and push the car and it's really hard to move, or feels like the handbrake is on, (i checked twice, it wasn't,) could my engine have seized? Last time it moved was when i drove it down the road and it died. 

Just tried to turn it around. Driveway is part gravel but enough concrete the other side to jack car up safely. Moved it back around 4 feet and pretty much got stuck. Couldn't move it anywhere. Battery was disconnected but something sounded like it was moving or turning over in the engine bay. 

Edited 24 March, 20206 yr by Eviljohn
Didn't put enough info in

a car in gear would be incredibly hard to push and in neutral the engine is of no concern

 

if you feel it may be seized see how it turns with a socket and bar on the crank (19mm)  you can try it without plugs and it should be easy to spin with a normal size bar or ratchet

 

otherwise maybe the brakes are starting to seize do to lack of use

Thanks Steve. I'll do what i can to check those. 

Yeah it was in gear. My two year old was donkin about in there the other day and must have knocked the gearstick. Wasn't in a gear bit wasn't in neutral. Has now been turned around so i can jack it up. 

Thank you.

Quick question: is there a core plug or something similar on the inlet manifold? Managed to get someone to do the timing belt and water pump for me, (genuinely wasn't comfortable doin it myself,) and they're saying i have a leak from the inlet manifold. I've just been on 7zap and can't find a plug on there. Also don't remember one from my old bready that i took off. 

Thank you peeps. Hope you're able to stay safe. 

yeah i think some do ..sure ive seen them on some models...cant you have  a look around it and see ?

They've shut up shop for today. Gonna speak to them again in the morning. Will keep digging om 7zap to see if i can find anything on there. 

Thank you Steve.

Just checked all the inlets on 7zap. None have a core plug but they do have an end cap on the driver side end. Hopefully know more tomorrow, just wanted to try and get a headstart if i needed to find a part.

It's this end cap on the side of the manifold. Not leaking yet, just damp om the end, (giggidy.) Going to clean it off and if i can't find a plug, i'll cover it in high temp araldite and keep an eye out for a new manifold. 

Water pump and timing belt done. Apparently the timing belt was out by two teeth at the top, one at the bottom. So much better now. 

What year is the car and what is the engine code?

Could it be item 3 here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1989-9/1/129-15000/ ?

 

still avail too 

1983 and it is indeed number 3. Couldn't find it before. Not sure what i did differently but now i have. 

Thank you chaps. Very much appreciated.

Edited 31 March, 20206 yr by Eviljohn
Wrong information entered.

Guess what? Found another leak!! Thing is like a seive at the moment. Gasket going into water pump hosing on back of engine. 

Found the part number on 7zap and it's on the way. 

It's the metal coolant pipe that goes along the back of the engine. Can i take this off without taking off the carb and inlet manifold? I did that other day and would rather not redo ALL the seals again if i don't have to.

Thanks for stopping by and any help you can give.

Stay safe.

Yes you should be able to access the water pipe nuts and extract it from below.

DIsconnect the battery negative, as the bare starter motor plus terminal is a tool welding nasty thing.

 

Is there a rubber pipe coming up between inlet manifold tubes to carb auto-choke?

That might be awkward for access. 

Thanks Dvderlm.

May not have to extract fully. So long as i can get it apart enough to refit the gasket, should be fine. Do have egr going from crankcase breather to air cleaner. 

So i got to the part i needee to from underneath, not with any real issues. Turns out the leak is the joint on the metal coolant pipe where it flares out to connect to the mounting point on the engine. Rusted/corroded through. 

Can't seem to find a straight up replacement just yet but early days. Also looking into making something up if i need to. 

If it does come to that, if i have to put coolant hose with a smaller id, would that cause an issue? 

I only ask as i have some silicone coolant hose in my shed that i bought for something else that i never used. It's 17mm id instead of the 28mm id that is the stock hose.

I am still looking for a replacement part though.

 

17mm diameter is lot less cross sectional area for coolant to flow through.

 

Could you not mend the leak with a two part epoxy like JBWeld or PlasticPadding's Leakfix

like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTIC-PADDING-LEAK-FIX-79g-tube-Hardener/383477977660

 

 

I have high temp jb weld and high temp araldite kickin around in my shed. My concern is the state of the pipe that's left and whether it will just continue to corrode and i'll have to replace it anyway. 

If the coolant water has antifreeze at correct strength then it contains rust inhibitor, usually silicates.

 

https://www.waynesgarage.com/tips/more-tip/antifreeze

 

 

There are even waterless coolants like Evans but ££s and system needs a pre-flush also not cheap but reusable I think..