yeah sounds about right

Okay cool. 

Looking at dizzy as well as i think the seal between that and the engine has gone. Fair amount of oil/gunk down between them.

Edited 24 January, 20206 yr by Eviljohn
Wrong information entered.

Hey dudes. Hope you're all good. I'm hoping to get my dizzy seal sorted next weekend. Just wanted to make sure i got everything i need so i can get it all done in one go. 

I have a new seal on the way.

I know i need to take some of the parts out of the dizzy to clean a little oil out of it. Is it worth me replacing the dizzy cap? I've had the car for just over two years, no idea when it was last done, but it seemed to run fine before i had all the leaky shenanigans. 

Also, i found this old thread:

 

I have a Haynes for reference, but is this relevant for a 1983 breadvan? Mark the dizzy casing and the engine, note the cam position. Make sure they go back correctly and mm perfect for the dizzy casing.  Will be looking to replace cam cover gasket too so any hints or hacks anyone wants to drop for any of thesw would be much appreciated. 

Thank you folks. 

When unscrewing cam cover bolts press down on each metal strip with 4 holes - Especially near end bolts or it will try to be a mini siege engine sending one bolt flying. 

Ping where did that go?

 

Watch out for the tiny metal discs in the old cork gasket either side of holes (Elring do this) Old ones can fall out. Found one in my sump.

Check cover for flatness with a ruler. 

 

You can glue the new cork gasket to the cover with a small amount of sealant to help align holes.

I have n't.

But I now use a tiny amount of Blue hylomar sealant gasket to head to help stop leak, but this has to be cleaned and can make  lifting cover off hard.

Watch out for the camshaft spray bar at back of head is properly seated at 3 places.

 

New dizzy cap probably sensible. It is a wear item.

Swap leads one at a time. Check for the locating notch. I drove with one upside down  for a  month until I noticed it rocking. 

 

 

👍

Thanks man. I will take ALL of that into account. 

I had every intention of using a small amount, a dab if you will, of Blue Hylomar. 

Is it worth using a small amount on the dizzy seal or is there something else anyone can recommend? A little grease or oil maybe? I want to make sure this is leak free af! 

If i'm doing dizzy cap, should i consider rotor arm too? 

Thanks again. 

remember to mark the dizzy so it can be re positioned exactly as it was ..assuming the timing was set correctly in the first place

 

yes rotor and dizzy cap are service items , good idea to replace if old , make sure you buy branded parts like bosch or beru 

Check the inner diameter of rotor arm hole before ordering it.

think there are 3 types and two look similar. 

 

Mine uses a Beru EVL088 with 7.9mm hole.

https://www.beruparts.co.uk/find-my-part/22944/beru/ignition/rotor--distributor/evl088.pd.html

 

 

Will be marking the dizzy position as timing is pretty good. Planning on using something to make marks in the metal as opposed to a sharpie, as i need to clean a little oil out of it. So not sure sharpie will stay on it. 

Will check for part numbers on dizzy cap and rotor arm. If no numbers, will measure them. 

Out of curiosity, what do the metal strips on the cam cover do? Is there a reason those are used instead of washers? 

Duded and Dudettes, is the cam cover gasket on an early breadvan meant to have little metal studs either side of the bolt holes? That's what is on the one i've just taken off. The replacement ones i have are just straight up cork. 

The one with the studs could be cork byt it's so soaked with oil, it actually feels like it could possibly be rubber. 

The cam cover is quite thin pressed metal (compared to the strips) so I think the strips avoid distortion directly around the clamping points to keep it flat as the cork below compresses and crushes.

 

The tiny metal studs also help you stop compressing too far, but are not vital.

 

Yeah oil soaked cork is like rubber.

 

Found an old post of mine.

Make sure the studs are tight in the head before you refit. 

 

https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/324009-replaced-rocker-cover-gasket-still-leaks-oil/

Thanks dude. I've not seen a gasket for this polo that had the metal studs before. I have two new spares, and both are straight up cork. I've offered them up to the cam cover and both are correct size and holes line up spot on. Planning on using just a small amount of Hylomar Blue just to be sure.

By studs, do you mean the two threaded bits sticking out of the head, either end at the bottom of where the cam cover sits? All others are bolts that go through the cam cover except these two. Is there a sensible way to tighten these without mashing the threads? I don't want to go at them with molegrips or pliers and cause more/bigger problems. 

Yes. No tool needed. Finger tight on those two at the bottom, so the unthreaded saddle part cannot go in any further.

 

I've only come across Elring gaskets with the metal studs. EAN 4041248031797

eg

https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/elring-988287

They just stop you compressing too much and splitting the cork. Perhaps they also prevent any rotation/distortion of cork and metal near the thread/bolt? 

 

My cover had some slight indents matching the metal studs, but I don't know whether it is made like that or from years of use.

 

(Febi Bilstein appear to have studs too. eg

https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/febi-bilstein-1874899 )

Edited 15 February, 20206 yr by dvderlm

I had gripper gloves on to try and keep the degreaser off my fingies. Didn't woek but i did just give those studs a little twist wity my fingers and they seemed fine. 

The gaskets i have, and all the others i have seen don't have any metal studs. 

Got the metal strips back to looking like metal, most of the surface rust off the cam cover, very thin bead of Hylomar blue, left to cure and refitted. Got them all finger tight and then 1/4 turn more with socket. Felt like they were just seated if you know what i mean, but could still be tightened a little more if needed. Will leave overnight and fire up tomorrow to check for signs of leakage. 

Have to wait for dizzy seal to arrive to do that one. Also, weather is grim today and i got no garage/shelter. Had to make one with a tarpaulin and some rope then sat in my shed to clean the cam cover. 

Just a quick reply to your earlier question. Sorry for delay I’ve been away. Yes, the Haynes was exactly what I did I marked the distributor casing and the engine and withdrew body carefully not to alter setting. Changed seals with care and made sure relocated the distributor in exactly the same place. Not as difficult as I thought. Didn’t get and pictures as it was done in a bit of a rush.

Good to know that it's not a big job. With my track record, i seem to be the guy that creates more jobs when i try to do one job. 

I notice you said "seals". Should i be replacing more than one? I have one O ring on the way but that's all i have as far as seals go. 

I do need to clean a little oil out of the dizzy. I have a can of Gunk or the Auto Glym machinery degreaser. Is either suitable for that job in very small doses? I'm running electronic ignition so don't have points to fudge up. 

Okay. I looked on 7zap. So long as i have the correct info, i think i need another seal for the actual mating faces between the dizzy and the engine. Checked out the part number but they all say not available. 

I do have some gasket paper that i got for another job. Would that, along with some blue hylomar be okay to use if i can't find the seal i need? 

Yes, gasket paper +  hylomar will do the job.

 

The o-ring around the dizzy's nose is also a leak suspect.

Any degreaser will do. I've used Gunk before.

Brake cleaner on the other hand is a bit aggressive.

Okay cool. I'll try again to find the proper seal. Someone else has suggested searching for a set of gaskets so will try that. Good to know i can knock one up if need be though. 

Gunk it is. Got a fair amount of the crud off already. Need to get in the nooks. 

Thanks dude.

Evening all. Hope you're well. 

I believe i have everything i need to sort my distributor out now. New cap and rotor arm, O ring and stuff to make a new seal. Either gasket paper and blue hylomar, or wynn's black gasket maker. 

I have marked the dizzy and engine, made two lines using a hacksaw blade. Do i need to turn the engine to turn the rotor arm or not? Would it make the job any easier or can i just whip it all off and line up the marks i have made when i refit? 

Thanks peeps. 

Well that was either easier than i thought it would be or i've fudged it somewhere. 

Got dizzy off, lots of pics, went crazy with a sharpie, marked casing and dizzy with hacksaw blade. 

Not so bad inside so cleaned out okay. 

 

The first pic is of the old and new rotor arms. Larger one on left is the old/og, unbranded, not even a part number on it, right is new, Beru part. Openings on the back are exactly the same. Am i okay to use the Beru one or do i need all those little gubbins that are on the old one? 

 

Other thing, the green O ring is the new one. Is it meant to go where i've placed it in the picture, if so, it's too dang big. There's one under it, but it's kind of a flat one and a little smaller. 

 

Hoping to get the flange off the side of the engine tomorrow and check the seal. 

 

 

That looks a Ducellier style rotor arm. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333500318564

What engine 

Don't you need to remove the old o-ring? It gets flattened over time.