just 1 will do.  confirms sensor and coil are all working.

 

only one plug hole for fuel mix to escape too. 

Cool. Will get that done tonight or tomorrow. Thank you Sir. 

So i just did three tests.

Spark test = i have spark

Rotor test = rotor moves

Smell test = i need a shower and i'm also certain it's fuel on the plugs and not oil.

Then it started hailing so i ran away cuz i was only wearing a t shirt. And shorts.

 

Is there any way i can tell whether i need to advance or retard the timing?

basic setting is to line up the rotor with the notch on the metal housing , thats accurate enough to start  , then use a strobe light

Bugger! My strobe light is two counties away in Cornwall! 

Thank you though. Gives me something to work with. 

 

When you say point the rotor arm at the notch on the metal housing, am i pointing the metal contact part at the notch as that part on the Ducellier rotor is off centre. 

hmm good question, maybe the haynes says?

 

id go with center of the metal contact

Nothing in the Haynes about the position of the rotor arm for timing check. Just says to run the engine up normal temp, disconnect vacuum, connect timing gun and adjust dizzy until timing mark is correct. 

Says to point the rotor arm to the notch on dizzy case before removal. I didn't do that. Rotor arm in the picture is of an inline one like the Beru one i have. 

If you think setting it in that position is a good shout, i'll go with that. I may change to the new rotor arm and dizzy cap i have though, just so it's easier to get it to that position. 

 

Is having fuel on the plugs any indication of whether the timing needs advancing or retarding or do i just try it one way and then the other? 

you cant judge the timing by the amount of fuel on the plugs..they will start with the timing well out of spec 

Okay.

I should be able to get hold of a timing gun over next couple days. Probly not much point in doing anything until i get that. 

Thanks for help and patience so far gents. Very much appreciated.

Managed to get on it today! After a fair bit of donking around, wiping plugs, finding tdc, starting then checking and wiping plugs again, finally got her started!!! Ran for around 30 seconds, then smoke/vapour started coming from around the downpipe clamp area and a steady drip from the back of the engine. Wasn't oily and it didn't smell like fuel. I couldn't see where it was dripping from as i couldn't get under properly at the time. 

Is there another core plug at the back of the block, under the carb? Thinking possibly coolant? 

does appear to be any on the rear side

Does the cooling system go into the inlet manifold? I've had dealings with that before but can't remember if it does or not. 

Could the exhaust manifold have been comprimised by leak issues?

does go into the inlet on most models yeah

Okay so that's a possibility then. Need to get up off the ground and run it so i can see where it's comin from. 

Just had a random 10 minutes.

Took the manifold heat shield off so i can get to exhaust manifold, downpipe etc. Noticed the cam cover bolts were REALLY loose. Some were loose enough that i could spin them with one finger so i've tightened them back up. Did finger tight bit then did about a 1/2 turn with a socket, maybe a little more. Did finger tight then 1/4 turn before but that obviously didn't work out. If the cam cover was loose, would that affect the timing? Or how it starts and runs generally? 

Engine did sound a little rattly compared to normal running when i fired it up last week. Did take a video but too big to post. Even after trimming. Will try again though.

no the rocker cover bolts do not effect timing 

Cool. Rule that out and keep digging then. Thank you. 

Leak is from water pump. Doesn't look as though anything but coolant so relieved about that. Means unless i have another leak, oil is staying in the engine at this point. 

Had vapour coming off the manifold/downpipe connection still so i'm gonna take that apart, clean it and replace the gasket. 

Is the water pump a pain to change myself? I know the cam belt is involved as it's in the way.

 

Just found, purely by accident, a how to in the faq's for a mk2f water pump and cam belt. Is that prettt close to what i'd be looking to do with a mk2 bready?

 

Thanks for guidance and patience dudes. 

same job as a mk2f  ...be aware theres 2 teeth styles available mk2 ought to be 108 but please check and dont take my word for it

 

might as well do the belt unless its near new 

 

dont get talked into cutting the plastic covers off ..and ask if stuck  

Both belt and pump i have in place are less than 2 years old. 

Can't seem to find a kit on euro. I'll keep looking though. 

I looked at the Haynes and i reckon i can do it. May take me a while but i'll get there.

Any random tools other than sockets or hex keys i may need? 

Won't be  chopping anything off at all. 

When you say two teeth sizes, is that the water pump or the cam belt pulley? Is there a way i can check before i take whichever one it is off so i get the correct parts/kit? 

Thanks Steve.

 

Found a kit! Booya!

pump and belt share the same tooth style 

 

id suggest buying a known brand rather than ecp rubbish 

 

need a decent 6mm hex key...prefer socket style rather than allen keys...hammer it in to try and avoid rounding them  , will need a jack to raise the engine and maybe a deep 10mm socket or some very short extensions

Got a Gates one from Germany. I have a 6mm hex key bit, also 10mm socket with extentions. 

good stuff....once completed turn the engine over several times with a 19mm socket (clockwise)and confirm the timing marks and tension are good before trying to start it

also check the pump comes with a new o ring