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bastibum

mk2 breadvan Paula the Polo

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bastibum

Last October I bought this red beauty for 750 euro. A pretty good value imo, there is no serious rust on any structural parts.
The ususal rust at the edge of the front-window and some below the rear bumper are the most severe cases of rust. The garage I bought it from put new wider but smaller wheels on it, so the car is already faster on the speedo : )


My plan is to take "Paula" for a roadtrip from Holland through scandinavia this summer. Before that can happen it does need some work on the engine though, I already posted on this forum about throttle hesitation. The fuel filter seemed to be the quick fix however the carb probably has a leak somewhere, the hesisation is still there. This is my first project car, so feel free to give me tips/advise!

 

Last day of November
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Paula her home for the winter
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Edited by bastibum

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bastibum

Last week I put sound deadening in the boot. Paula is missing the backseat. The noise from the boot while driving is really uncomfortable especially on highways. 
The amount of noise hasn't changed drastically with the mats in the boot,  but the unpleasant tinny sound is less present. My plan is to buy a backseat somehwere in germany. With that installed the noise should be reduced quite a bit.
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bastibum

Yesterday I checked for a vacuum leak in the carb by spraying some carb cleaner on it. First time I took off the entire air filter and the carb does show signs of leakage.
The area pointed out by the arrow is where the carb cleaner actually got through the seal. What is the exact name of this part that needs replacement? 
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The inside is neither a clean place....
Any recommendations for a good cleaning product?
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NathMcloughlin

Get a full carb rebuild kit , wont be expensive,  and use carb cleaner , dont be tempted to use wd40 as it waxes up inside.

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dvderlm

>exact part name

"top cover gasket" I think.

An exploded parts diagram would tell you.

 

You could cut your own from gasket paper with scissors and craft knife if a rebuild kit is hard to find. too costly

eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Flexoid-Gasket-Paper-A4-size-Sheet-Free-UK-Postage-1-60mm-Thick/183968642836

 

I guess that is a Solex PICT ?

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bastibum

Indeed I could not find a carb rebuild kit for my Solex 31 Pict 7 that does not cost way too much for what you get. Is it important that I get the original thickness of gasket paper? Or is it the thicker the better?

On 26/01/2020 at 01:01, dvderlm said:

>exact part name

"top cover gasket" I think.

An exploded parts diagram would tell you.

 

You could cut your own from gasket paper with scissors and craft knife if a rebuild kit is hard to find. too costly

eg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Flexoid-Gasket-Paper-A4-size-Sheet-Free-UK-Postage-1-60mm-Thick/183968642836

 

I guess that is a Solex PICT ?

 

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dvderlm

Not too thick or the float will be at an odd angle and fill the carb well too much.

 

MacColl famously used Scotch Porridge oats packet. Don't laugh it is waxed cardboard. 

 

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bastibum

Oh okay, I'll have a quick look at my breakfast cereals then 🙂.
I'll go for the middle road 

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bastibum

I put on the new gasket and tried out the carb. However not to my suprise the idle was very erratic with maybe even more vacuum leaks than before.
The flange between the carburetor and the inlet manifold was very worn and probably the original part from 1984. Because I scraped away any rubber residu on the inlet manifold and carburetor that came from the flange there is now a very poor connection between the flange and carb+inlet manifold. So a new flange is my plan. Where do you guys buy such a part?

Extra question: After refitting the air filter I had this little (air?) pipe (looking at the camera in this pic) without any possible hose left over to connect it with. What do you reckon this hose should be connected with? 
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bastibum

It appears the worn flange is the model with OE-number 052 129 765 B that's not for sale anymore.
One last try  with Permatex no.2 sealant to get the car running again. Result was actually suprising; The worn flange is impossible to fully seal at this point, but there is significantly less vacuum leak. Car is running again, actually better than after purchase. There is a lot less throttle hesitation. How long will the permatex last ...... 

 

 

Resurrection 😮
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bastibum

Painted the grille and bumpers. Certainly makes it look better 

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I also did some work on the interior: new dome light, cleaned up the greasy and brown headliner.

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bastibum

The carburetor is being revised at the moment by a carb expert, who lives just down the street(lucky me).

There is still the problem of the carb-flange that isn't produced anymore but needs replacing. He told me he'll find a fix for the problem.

Because the car doesn't go anywhere at the moment I bought some jack stands in order for me to replace the front break pads. 

I further discovered under the car that the rusted floor pan is worse than I thought. At the passenger side it is rusted all the way through

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Anybody that has let a shop fix/replace the floor pan on their bready? A price estimate?

 

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bastibum

Another point of worry is the rust at driver side of the front window. I'm planning on tackling the rust and using filler without the hassle of completely removing the windshield. Would this still be possible or has the rust already spread too far?

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steveo3002

tip of the iceburg imo , mine looked far nicer than that yet needed welding once the screen was out 

 

no harm in cleaning up and painting what you can see but dont kid yourself its fixed 

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