Golf mk2 and maybe later Polo than mine have a tooth and ratchet tensioner for the alternator.

 

How does that fit together?

How can you turn the toothed nut and move the alternator further out?

 

 

 

Also is the bush that goes in the front engine/alternator mount a hot press fit.

Or are they different sizes for different bolts?

https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/vw/brand/20/0/Polo/Polo (1982 - 1990)/Volkswagen/VU5iS3hPV1VXczkrOEwrcXg3VkpCT0pVbzd2bVJDVGlhTEQ2UW5MdmFyTm9WV2RycHB3K1dkSUg5RDlJbjRSOXlGNkFyU2tHc0ZUVmI2aE1VOS9KdUE9PQ==/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:d6137282b0808aef08cf8c0bb733a854/manufacturer/9/009092000::92000

 

is what I have

How does bolt number 9 tighten?

There is no thread in my alternator.

earlier cars had a nut on the other side...got a feeling it was a square ish one 

I can only find a square bolt (see 19) that points the other way than the cogged one. I assume it is flat to not be in the way when fitting the belt.

 

 

I'll try an M8 nut and a shakeproof washer

 

 

yeah thats what i had in mind...been  a while sinse ive been under there

 

i **think  2f or very late mk2 had the cogged wheel , mine never had , makes no odds really not like youre altering often , i just use a prybar to set the tension and nip up the bolt

Yeah. Wonder why it changed.I thought the cog was somehow attached  to the bolt so tightening the bolt moved the alternator further out. That's not how it works. The cog just means it is less likely to slide. And a big old bar to lever alternator away from block and tight against belt while nip it up is all you need.

its a slightly better idea , the cog spins on the bolt , so loosen the bolt then use a spanner on the flats of the cog to tension the belt , when happy nip up the bolt 

Oh right, now I understand... the cog has flats for a spanner. I thought the cog was somehow attached  to the bolt. The bolt that goes through the cog is longer than the squared headed bolt and screws into a threaded insert in the alternator plate.  So I don't think I can use the old square headed bolt and racked mount and cog.

Used a Golf rack & pinion tensioning  mount, it bends the opposite way to a Polo. In order to have flat against the alternator and the cog engage with the teeth, needs a spacer at the block.

 

But that's nothing compared to other alignment issues. Twin crank pulley to alternator is about 12mm out.

 

and belt from crank to alternator past timing mark pointer is wrong too.

 

 

It's a protorque 27 (708mm) v-belt that is 6mm at point but 10mm at top.  Need 8mm belt(s) obviously, but the routing urgently needs some adjustment.

 

Would be fine with a G-lader mount I suppose, but was hoping to get it running before supercharging.

 

 

I had use a radiator mounting nut on the alternator to tensioner joint, but it tended to spin so needed 3 spanners and hands. Now using an M8 lug nut that stays in place.

 

And bent the timing mark to give the belt clearance for now

 

Ordered some 8mm Urethane piping to make custom belts. Still thinking about the left/right alignment.

I suppose I could move the crank pulley out 6mm with 2x3mm thick m12 spacers, and the alternator in 6mm with M8 spacers and a lot of grinding/filing of the nearside mount plate...

or switch back to single pulley until switch to supercharger, when I could splash out on 6pk or toothed drive.

 

Just a bit surprised it doesn't line up. Did the alternator mount chnage that much with 10mm bolt and M8 connection rather than 8mm bolt and Lucas 3pin plug?

 

 

not sure what changed mate...wouldnt have thought much at all

I didn't think the early ones had the rack and pinion tensioner? Very, very long time since I've looked at one though. 

Sure, but are the alternators the same? I've seen later ones  for racked tensioner  with 3 holes  (looking at the pulley end).

 

 

 

 

compared to early style for the rectangular head bolt

 

But nothing uses new hole.

 

Now the belt became longer 710mm versus 675mm which I assumed was the pulley wheel getting bigger or the tensioner geometry.

Does the pulley and fan axle protrude more from the face or is the body thinner or thicker or something?   

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by dvderlm

think the axle and fan sit the same ...does the mk2f /cogged wheel version have threads in the alternator housing ?

I think you must be right. A threaded housing but I don't have one to check.

 

Trying 4x 10mm thick M8 spacers and longer bolts 30mm (12.9)  to move the crank pulley out.

 

 

Need to think about improving  the stone guard below to protect the belt though.

Aluminium spacers so very light.

7zap says the pulley bollts on a G are self-locking.