Guys I am in serious trouble. Like seriously.

 

I have a 1 liter 6N2 polo thats almost as old as me, and I wanted to change my brake fluid as it feels spongy, I've owned it for a year and there was no mention of a brake fluid change in its service history for many many years.

 

Starting with the rear right side of the car, jacked and took off the wheels, drum looks very very rusty, Ive took off the black cap on the bleeder valve, popped in a tube connected to remove the brake fluid, opened and left the cap of the master brake cylinder barely on it, popped in my wrench to the bleeder valve (not them adjustable spanners), felt tight, pumped in more force, boom. 

 

The entire bleeder valve snapped off with the tube stuck on and the only bits of the valve are directly on the back side of the drum (not sticking out).

 

Thankfully no brake fluid gushed out but I was soo confused I had to take off the rear

left wheels off and loosened and tightened the bleeder valve. Turns out my worst fears were true. My rear right bleeder has literally snapped.

 

I cant even pull out the remains of the rusted bleeder valve because its hiding.

 

I did feel like my drum brakes needed changing but changing them wont fix the bleeder valve. So what are my options?

 

The only option I can visualise is bringing a power drill designed to eat metal and to use it to eat the remains of the bleeder valve stuck in, while impossibly keeping everything else protected from it (the drum, brake shoes and springs especially) which means I have to go to a mechanic that will certainly charge me more than the value of my polo which I certainly am not willing to pay. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5Pcs-Damaged-Broken-Screw-Extractor-Drill-Bits-Stud-Bolt-Remover-Easy-Out-8C/143434133643?hash=item216557308b:g:~4oAAOSwKytZLP~W  you might be able to extract the remains of the bleed valve and then replace it with a new one, if not you're looking at replacing the whole brake cylinder, about £20 

I'd be dropping a new wheel cylinder in for the sake of £10-20. Just be sure to clamp the flexihose with something that won't damage it  while you're working so the the system doesn't empty out. If the shoes and drum are looking healthy when you get the drum off, you can always part the shoes with a couple of bars then change the cylinder out without taking the shoes off the backplate. 

Thank you very much guys,

 

Also, one more question, where can you buy the hub nut for the rear wheels? 

 

I know its advised that a hub nut should be replaced after every use and looking at my rusty drum brakes and no hub nut caps at my rear wheels, I very much intend to replace them better safe than sorry.

 

Ive initially wanted to flush my brake fluid so when i get a new set of drum brakes, and shoes its operating on fresh fluid.

As you have a 6N2 the centre nut doesn't need to be undone to get at the brake shoes, you just undo the phillips/allen headed screw in the face of the drum and the drum comes away from the hub/bearing unit, it was only on the 6N1 where the drum was also the bearing carrier that you needed to undo it, to get at the shoes.