4 minutes ago, steveo3002 said:

thats early vs later cap ...any mechanic should spot this 

 

 

ok but are they compatible? 

ive never tried it...if it fits nicely on the distributor i guess so , would need to use later m4 style leads 

ok that doesn't explain why the spark is weak though?

well it wont help as the plig leads will not be making contact to the cap

 

 

5 minutes ago, steveo3002 said:

well it wont help as the plig leads will not be making contact to the cap

 

 

 

We were using the old distributor cap with the old leads on the new rotor with the new distributor so contact was ok.

all you have is - distributor sends signal to tci , tci triggers the coil , coil sends spark to cap and sent down the correct lead to make the plug spark

 

kinda makes me think coil if the wires and plugs are servicable

 

 

1 hour ago, steveo3002 said:

all you have is - distributor sends signal to tci , tci triggers the coil , coil sends spark to cap and sent down the correct lead to make the plug spark

 

kinda makes me think coil if the wires and plugs are servicable

 

 

 

Thanks I've ordered new plugs and wires so we'll see what happens next and take it from there.

id also check the coil lead...as it looks like it has had the wrong cap and leads fitted , does the coil wire match up the coil fitting ? and same where it enters the cap 

On 21/10/2020 at 13:33, steveo3002 said:

id also check the coil lead...as it looks like it has had the wrong cap and leads fitted , does the coil wire match up the coil fitting ? and same where it enters the cap 

 

It suddenly dawned on me that it might not be starting because the carb is dry as it hasn't run for a couple of month so I went to the garage today, took the air cleaner off and put some petrol in the carb and presto it started right up... ! All the mechanics rushed over to ask me what I had done to get it going as they had been scratching their heads for weeks... I guess that's the problem when you work on fuel injection all the time... you forget the basics....

Good news.   

old fuel in tank?

 

Turning engine over should operate fuel pump to fill carb well in about 15 seconds.

 

Then autochoke flap closed should ensure a very rich mixture of fuel and air is sucked through idle jet.

 

Small squeeze of gas pedal will operate accelerator pump jet to help liquid fuel in spray form reach intake plenum. 

 

But old fuel will have lost some of the lighter more volatile compounds.

 

Ethanol fuel E5 will absorb moisture from air in the well or tank with old open breather trap. I'd suggest FuelFit or Startron if you are laying up a car for a long time with fuel in.

 

There might be some Ethanol induced white/gold crustiness in the carb itself.

Hopefully getting it to start will suck it out, or you might be looking at dismantle, ultrasonic clean, new carb gaskets and diaphragm repair kit. 

Thanks for the advice there. I can't remember about the fuel if I filled it up when I took it out of "storage" or not but I didn't think of that and that's the first thing I should have done so thanks for reminding me. A carb rebuild might be worth looking into since it's hasn't been done since new! I'll look into that once the brake pads on the rear brakes are changed so it can pass MOT!

brake shoes inside drums on the back.

Unless you have a rear disc brake conversion.

 

Good luckwith MOT

Edited 28 October, 20205 yr by dvderlm

2 hours ago, dvderlm said:

brake shoes inside drums on the back.

Unless you have a rear disc brake conversion.

 

Good luckwith MOT

 

Sorry that't what I meant. Couldn't remember the exact word for them! Thanks!